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Thread: eliminating the can light?

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    RBW Member manni-yunk is an unknown quantity at this point manni-yunk's Avatar
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    eliminating the can light?

    I am trying to get as streamlined as possible for a few projects I am working on. It seems that more and more divers are taking advantage of newer batteries and LED technology to eliminate the need for a Can light.

    Im thinking about going that route. I do have a great brand new latest generation UWLD light that I may sell or convert to a battery for a heated vest for winter diving....


    In the meantime- does anyone have experience with the Dive Rite LX 20 or one of the SOLA lights as a replacement for a Can light? Any feedback on the mount they use for the wrist glove? How about the light itself?

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    RBW Member oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    I've got the DR cordless.

    Love it. Love the little light mitten that it comes with.

    Of course it's not as bright as a 35W but, honestly, I try to avoid buddies who have lights that bright. It's theoretically got two settings but, honestly, I do not see a difference between high and low. They're both brighter than the old 10W HID I had been using.

    So I always keep it set to "low" because theoretically it's got more burn time. But out of curiosity I've left it on "high" and the bugger ran through two 2 hour+ dives without flagging, so...

    The light head is, obviously, noticeably bigger than the head on a corded light, but the lack of another thing trying to grab bailout tank valves and tug on my arm when I reach for spools and just generally be in the goddamn way more than makes up for it.

    My wife also has the secondary mount that she occasionally unclips from her hand and puts the light on her head. When she's doing line work, mostly. I don't like it when she's swimming with it clipped to her head because I constantly think she's trying to get my attention.

    I won't be going back anytime soon.

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    RBW Member tbone1004 is an unknown quantity at this point tbone1004's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    if you switch lights, ask bobby if you can basically trade the light head for the vest controller if he can use it for any warranty work. The new vest controller is brilliant.

    You mention the LX20-the LX20 is quite simply a glorified backup light. I don't care what anyone says, it is no more powerful than any of the good backup lights on the market, and it is hideously expensive and heavy. It requires 4 matched 18650's because they don't have a battery pack for it, so you have to charge them individually. It's annoying...

    Light and Motion lights are still expensive, no replacement battery packs, so you have to make sure that it has enough burn time to get you through the whole day since there isn't any recharge in the middle. It uses a proprietary charge connector, and I don't like the switch. They are a better buy than the Dive Right though which is still only a nominal 1000lumen light due to using a single XML-U2 emitter.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S8Z7PZC...=IPJFBTD2D2FQT
    this is the best bang for the buck if you want to cut the cord. Same light output as the LX20 from Dive Rite, same as the Sola 800, burns for an hour on high, and is cheap. Buy a couple of them and you're good to go. They don't come with batteries or a charger, which is good because most lights come with crap batteries and chargers
    https://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-D4-C...ds=nitecore+d4
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TCRZDJA...I14R9ZK2I5I2WH

    some of those and for $120 you have a pair of lights that will go for 2 hours on high, are tiny, have a mag button switch at the back which is nice over twisties, plus a very nice charger that will also do any AA/AAA NiMH batteries you have, and the best 18650 batteries on the market *Panasonic 3400mah*. Grab a $10 light sock from Dive Gear Express and when one dies, throw it in the pocket and grab the other one and you're good to go. Odds are you aren't exceeding 2 hours bottom time anyway.

    This is the setup that I'm using for all open water diving unless I need some serious light from my UWLD

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    RBW Member jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold is a jewel in the rough jlovold's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    I can recommend BigBlue TL4000P (new model is TL4500P)

    It is very powerful, maybe too powerful in many situations, but is dimable, which also increases runtime. (runtime at max is 2hrs).

    My old light was the Light Monkey 50W HID, and I do not miss it, except for the ability to focus the beam.

    The glove-handle it comes with may not be the greatest solution in the world, but it works well enough, and can be easily modified.

    http://www.leisurepro.com/p-bbltl450...echnical-light

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    RBW Member andrespp is on a distinguished road andrespp is on a distinguished road andrespp's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    4000 lumens, rated for 100 mts, it comes with two 26650 and charger.....168 euro+ shipping:


    http://www.cascoantiguo.com/es/p9391...ius-4000-lumen

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    Supporting Member Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36 has a reputation beyond repute Dsix36's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    Quote Originally Posted by tbone1004  View Original Post

    You mention the LX20-the LX20 is quite simply a glorified backup light. I don't care what anyone says, it is no more powerful than any of the good backup lights on the market, and it is hideously expensive and heavy. It requires 4 matched 18650's because they don't have a battery pack for it, so you have to charge them individually. It's annoying...
    I have seen you slam this light on other occasions too. It is more than obvious that you are not a fan of it. Your views and opinions on it are completely different than mine. I compared both the light output and light color to my Hollis LED25 and the Hollis was a mere flicker in comparison. Granted I do not use a UWLD 35 or greater to compare it to and thus do not really care to. the LX20 is much brighter than my backups and has more burn time. You make the charging sound like a total PITA, when it is not that bad. Simply pop the batteries out, pop them in the charger and done. It gets rid of that darned cord too.

    Yes, there are cons to this light too. I find it heavy, but considering the battery pack is built into it, it really is not heavy at all. I really dislike how easy it is to knock it out of the QR and thus modified mine to be permanent.

    Oh yeah, having a spare set of batteries is dirt cheap compared to having a spare battery pack for a canister light.
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    RBW Member tbone1004 is an unknown quantity at this point tbone1004's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    the hollis LED25 as you are well aware from personal experience is a POS light.

    What backup lights are you using? The LX20 uses the same emitter as most of the good backup lights on the market and from personal experience throws a little bit more due to the lower voltage drop of having more batteries, but not a whole lot more than the good backup lights on the market. It's horribly expensive for what it is, and I can't see any justification to buy it. I know you have one, I know you're happy with it, I just can't recommend it.
    If you really want a big ass light on your hand
    http://www.bigbluedivelights.com/pro...sp?Product=228
    better, brighter, and half the price of the LX20

  8. #8
    RBW Member manni-yunk is an unknown quantity at this point manni-yunk's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    Quote Originally Posted by tbone1004  View Original Post
    the hollis LED25 as you are well aware from personal experience is a POS light.

    What backup lights are you using? The LX20 uses the same emitter as most of the good backup lights on the market and from personal experience throws a little bit more due to the lower voltage drop of having more batteries, but not a whole lot more than the good backup lights on the market. It's horribly expensive for what it is, and I can't see any justification to buy it. I know you have one, I know you're happy with it, I just can't recommend it.
    If you really want a big ass light on your hand
    http://www.bigbluedivelights.com/pro...sp?Product=228
    better, brighter, and half the price of the LX20
    Ive had (3) Holls 25w lights. All repaired/replaced over and over again. I ultimately gave it away for free because it was a POS...

    That being said - when it did work, it was my favorite light. Beam degree, brightness, battery size and run time...all perfect for a can light and what I wanted. I just gave up on the reliability and will never buy another hollis item again.

  9. #9
    RBW Member oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya has a spectacular aura about oya's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    Quote Originally Posted by tbone1004  View Original Post
    If you really want a big ass light on your hand
    http://www.bigbluedivelights.com/pro...sp?Product=228
    better, brighter, and half the price of the LX20
    Also made in china disposable crap.
    Really not that much brighter. (And how much light does one really need. I mean, I'm actually not that scared of the dark.)
    As opposed to a made by a family company in Florida who has always given top notch customer service.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dsix36  View Original Post
    I really dislike how easy it is to knock it out of the QR and thus modified mine to be permanent.
    I wear a bungee bracelet that I keep the light clipped off to just in case it gets knocked out... but I've never actually had it knocked out.

  10. #10
    RBW Member jale is on a distinguished road jale is on a distinguished road jale's Avatar
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    Re: eliminating the can light?

    Quote Originally Posted by oya  View Original Post
    Also made in china disposable crap.
    I wear a bungee bracelet that I keep the light clipped off to just in case it gets knocked out... but I've never actually had it knocked out.
    Hi
    Well, a lot of stuff you (all of us) have is made in China and not everything is crap.
    It is not about the origin of production but about the seriousness of the quality control.
    And BIG BLUE is producing quality lights.
    Yes, the bungee bracelet is the good "trick" for handheld lights :)

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