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Thread: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

  1. #21
    RBW Member wilko7 is an unknown quantity at this point wilko7's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    You will need to attach the heat sink to the exterior if using the 3 xml leds as they are run at 1000ma resulting in a higher running temperature + there are 3 leds resulting in 3 times the heat.

    With the led i chose you are running it at 250ma and only 1 led, so you should only need the heat sink.

    Upto you what you do, only explaining my reasoning why you dont need to attach to exterior

    (Dont want to make any enemies or step on anyones toes!)

    If you think the project is too extreme for you, maybe send it packhorse

  2. #22
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    That LED is designed for room lighting. It may work OK as a video light but for a dive light there are much better options.
    You will need to attach the heat sink to the exterior if using the 3 xml leds as they are run at 1000ma resulting in a higher running temperature + there are 3 leds resulting in 3 times the heat.
    3XML's at 1000ma is only 10 watts. It offers the advantage of slightly better efficiency over a single XML @ 3000ma but has the draw backs of extra cost, extra parts, and far less control over the beam shape ( 1 big optic is better than 3 small ones). They require the exact same heat sink properties since they both must sink 10watts of energy (less the small% that actually goes into making light).
    With the led i chose you are running it at 250ma and only 1 led, so you should only need the heat sink.
    Its not the ma that defines how much heat is produced. Its the watts.

    Upto you what you do, only explaining my reasoning why you dont need to attach to exterior
    If its not connected to the light head to help dissipate heat it will just collect heat. It will just get hotter and hotter the longer it is used. The size will dictate how long it takes to get hot and how long it takes to cool down. The idea is to move the heat away from the LED. The cooler the LED is the longer it will last and the brighter it will be.
    a 1000 lumen LED will only be 1000 lumen while it is cool. With heat it will quickly dim down to 800 or less lumen. If you have a light meter try this.
    Put your torch in the freezer. When cold turn it on and measure the lux. Leave it running until hot. Measure the lux again. Alternatively set you camera full manual and take a pic when cold. Using the same settings take another pic when hot. Compare them.
    (Dont want to make any enemies or step on anyones toes!)
    Who does?

  3. #23
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    Quote Originally Posted by lizardland  View Original Post
    I can highly recommend Packhorse's work. I had mine done last year and been very happy with it.

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
    Sorry for getting into this thread late.....

    I second the recommendation. I had the same light head done by Packhorse and the result was fantastic!!!


    Best regards,
    SS

  4. #24
    RBW Member wilko7 is an unknown quantity at this point wilko7's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    "Its not the ma that defines how much heat is produced. Its the watts."

    ma does play a role in the production of heat I have just spoken to cree regarding this for my own project. There is resistant that occurs through the internal circuitary of the led. The higher the current the higher the resistance the higher the heat produced.


    Dont want to make enemies as said earlier, it sounds like I am arguing but I am not, just trying to inform you of what I discovered.

    Packhorse please go into detail about the room lighting point because that has intrigued me. I thought it doesnt matter what application the led was designed for e.g room lighting aslong as you can find a reflector or lense to reduce the size of the beam you can turn it into a torch.

    Remember this is not meant to sounds aggressive it just comes across this way, I dont want to start a full blown argument

  5. #25
    aka Scotty com1 will become famous soon enough com1 will become famous soon enough com1 will become famous soon enough com1's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    Quote Originally Posted by eXile  View Original Post
    I agree with Packhorse, you absoloutely need a lathe to get the heatsink to be a slip fit inside the housing. Even a machine shop could do it for you and I doubt it would cost a great deal. I absoloutely love my conversion, shits all over the old HID which I never used, I would rather use my old 50w halogen torch than the 10w HID but now its converted to LED I love it. Good lighting for wreck diving and good on power consumption. I got the tightest beam I could in the riple LED lens configuration.

    Im using 3XML in T6 and a beam of +/- 9.5 degrees, which is 19 degrees total, good all round beam. Also using the Hi6flex driver

    LEDS - Cutter Electronics

    LENS - Cutter Electronics

    Driver - Cutter Electronics

    Hope this info helps, if you need a drawing of the heatsink let me know and I will sketch one up for you. I could also pull my head apart for a show and tell but Im not all that keen on it unless its absoloutely necessary.


    Paul
    A sketch would be cool!
    How did you do the connection between the heatsink, lens and driver. I read that there are some parts on the driver that must be electrically isolated against the heatsink.

    Scotty

  6. #26
    RBW Member Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    Quote Originally Posted by wilko7  View Original Post
    "Its not the ma that defines how much heat is produced. Its the watts."

    ma does play a role in the production of heat I have just spoken to cree regarding this for my own project. There is resistant that occurs through the internal circuitary of the led. The higher the current the higher the resistance the higher the heat produced.


    Dont want to make enemies as said earlier, it sounds like I am arguing but I am not, just trying to inform you of what I discovered.

    Packhorse please go into detail about the room lighting point because that has intrigued me. I thought it doesnt matter what application the led was designed for e.g room lighting aslong as you can find a reflector or lense to reduce the size of the beam you can turn it into a torch.

    Remember this is not meant to sounds aggressive it just comes across this way, I dont want to start a full blown argument
    ma alone does not define how much heat is produced. Its all about watts.
    watts = amps ( ma) x volts
    If you power a LED with a Vf (forward Voltage) of 3.3v ( creeXML) with only 250ma you get 0.825 watts. Thats not a lot of heat at all
    Now if you get a LED with a higher Vf of say 20 volts and put 250ma through it then you get 20 x .25 = 4 watts.
    Both examples draw 250ma of current but one produces more than 4 times as much heat.

    Now the reason that LED is not suitable for a dive light is because it is designed for room lighting and so designed to spread its light out over a wide area. It will also be a "warm colour" which isnt idea for a dive light as most of the light will get absorbed by the water.
    To get a fairly tight spot of light ( which most divers prefer) you need a large optic and a small point source of light. HID wins in this regard because its point source of light is very small.
    The XML LED is about 1.3mm x 1.3 mm ( I think) XRE is 1mm x 1mm although there is a newer XRE that is 0.9 x 0.9mm.
    The LED you linked to actually has multiple dies in the LED so multiple point sources of light. I have never seen anyone use one with a torch reflector so cant confirm but I guess it would be a very ugly beam.
    But once again it may be a great choice for a video light where you wouldnt use an optic at all. Just the bare LED to give a wide even spread of light in a nice warm colour that really brings out the colours over a short distance.

  7. #27
    RBW Member wilko7 is an unknown quantity at this point wilko7's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    sweeeeeeeet i might make a video light!!!! So for a video light i dont use any reflector or lense????? Not even a wide beamed one such as 30-50degrees?

    Thanks

  8. #28
    RBW Member Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse is a glorious beacon of light Packhorse's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    50 degrees is narrow as far as video goes. Most video lenses cover 120 degrees or mose. A bare led will cover about 120 degrees fwhm. That LED will work ok with a very wide optic I would guess. Eg 50 degrees. But nit a narrow 10 degree optic.

  9. #29
    aka Scotty com1 will become famous soon enough com1 will become famous soon enough com1 will become famous soon enough com1's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    So finally it will be a DIY project.
    Due to I want to avoid meeting the guys from the customs office I tried to find similar parts in Germany/Europe.
    Will this stuff fit together:

    Driver
    lense
    PoweLED
    HeatSink (custom made)



  10. #30
    RBW Member wilko7 is an unknown quantity at this point wilko7's Avatar
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    Re: Dive Rite 10WHID MR11 to LED upgrade

    Those parts will work together. Which buckpuck driver are you using? 2.8a or 1.5a? 2.8a will result in a rediculously bright beam, something like 2500+ lumens!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    By the way you sure the beam angle is right? 19 degrees seems a little high I would go for something like 13 or 14 if they do it

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