Megs in Mexico

Megs in Mexico: A Trip Report
By Benthic


Although Heather and I are relatively new Meg divers, we've both been cave divers for many years. So we couldn't resist the urge to pack up the units and hop a plane to Mexico. Heather has been to the Yucatan once, a few years ago - and this was a first for me. We spent four days there and planned to spend as much of it diving as possible.

Since we just returned home a few hours ago, I thought I'd write this all down while it was still fresh in my head. This will be old news to those who have been to Mexico before, but I did my best to fill my unconscionably long tale with things I wish I had known before I got there.

We flew into Cancun on Thursday evening, landing at about 9:30pm local time. By the time we claimed our bags, cleared customs, and picked up our rental car, it was almost 11:00pm before we were on our way to Akumal.

For those that have never been, just get on Federal Hwy 307 and head south. As we drove we talked excitedly about the diving we'd be doing the next day. Conversation continued, until it was interrupted by the flashing of blue and red lights in the rear view mirror. After a brief and broken conversation with the officer (he spoke little English, and I speak little Spanish) I learned that I had been pulled over for "weaving" and that the officer was going to take my license. I was to appear at the Playa del Carmen police station the following day to pay the fine of 500 pesos, and then I could have my license back. I didn't recall weaving, but didn't speak enough Spanish to argue. However, I was then told that if I paid $100 USD on the spot that it would be 'no problem.' I could have my license and go on my way. Sound fishy? I thought so too. While I knew that I was being taking for a ride (and mumbled as much to Heather, while reaching for my wallet), I felt I had little choice since it was near midnight in a country where I didn't speak the language. I counted out $100 and handed it over. Would you believe that the officer handed $40 USD back? I guess he felt sorry for me. We continued on our way, checked in at Villas de Rosa in Akumal, and tumbled into bed.

The next day dawned and our first priority (after breakfast, and finishing the check in process) was to return to Playa del Carmen and rent Rebreather bottles and bailout bottles from Protec. We asked, but Villas de Rosa didn't have the size bottle we needed. Protec is pretty easy to find - head east on Av. Benito Juarez, turn left on Av. 30, and they are about two blocks down on the right hand side (at the corner of Av. 30 and Calle 4). Note that they're open from 8:00am to Noon, and 4:00pm to 8:00pm - so get there early, or late. We picked up some aluminium 19s (bring your own Tiger Gear) and aluminium 40s for bailout. The 40s were not full, but we didn't complain. Since it was almost noon, we figured we could get them topped up elsewhere. So we headed back to Villas de Rosa to fill tanks, assemble our gear and head for the cenotes.

As soon as we returned, I headed up to the office to see about getting our bailout tanks filled. I walked in and waited while Nancy de Rosa finished talking with some other folks there. I then asked if I could get two tanks filled. Her response was, "Who are you? Where are you staying?" I was surprised that she didn't remember me since I had spoken to her only a few hours before, but I answered her questions. She then remembered that Heather and I had rebreathers and said (are you ready for this), "I'm done filling for the day, and I'm not going to start up my compressor for two little bottles." I told her that I needed two 40s filled, not the smaller Rebreather bottles but she didn't care. Needless to say I was furious! I was a paying customer and she was treating me like I was an inconvenience! I went back to our room and shared the news with Heather, who was equally furious. So we decided that we needed to head out to another dive shop to get the fills we needed.

After visiting about half a dozen dive shops, we learned that most shops in that area don't have compressors, but all get their fills from the same fill station. It's called Cuzel, and it's located on Hwy 307 at Km 264.5, right below the orange and white radio antenna on the west side of the highway. The folks there were very nice and got us the gas we needed. However, by that point, we had wasted the entire day so there was to be no diving on Friday.

Saturday dawned, and we headed out to Hidden Worlds for some diving. As it turns out, they don't allow cave diving there - only guided cavern dives. However, one of the employees was very helpful and pointed us toward some other promising sites. So we headed over to Grand Cenote in Sistema Sac Aktun. All I can say is WOW!! If you're a cave diver, and you haven't been to Mexico yet, pack your gear and go just as soon as you can! We got in a nice long diver there and it was beautiful. We emerged tired, but very happy and headed around the corner to Tulum for fills and lunch.

At Hidden Worlds, we learned about a dive shop in Tulum called Xibalba Dive Center. It's right off Hwy 307 on the north side of town. It's on the east side of the highway, just north of the first traffic circle (roundabout). It's run by Robbie Schmittner and his wife Anika. They are both very friendly and very helpful. While they don't have Rebreather bottles, or sorb they fill air, Nitrox, and oxygen while you wait. They've got a brand new filling station on site. They also offer the usual dive shop fare, courses, guide services, repairs (OC only), etc. After seeing to our gas needs, and picking up some t-shirts we went next door for lunch. I don't recall the name of the restaurant, but its family owned and authentic. The food was inexpensive and very tasty. By this point it was late afternoon and we didn't figure we'd get another dive in, so we decided to head back to the hotel and be ready to dive first thing the next morning.

On Sunday we got up and headed to Dos Ojos. In talking to the man at the gate it became apparent that he wanted to sell us guided dives. Since that was not what we were interested in, we thanked him and left. Our next stop was Aktun Chen, where we learned that diving was not permitted. Then, after a look at the map we went to Cenote Calimba, only to learn that we had to go into Tulum to get the key from the land lord. After striking out at Cenote Cristal as well we were very frustrated, and stopped in at Xibalba for assistance.

This time we spoke to Anika and told her of our troubles. She spent 15 minutes showing us a map and marking the location of several cenotes, teaching us some helpful Spanish phrases, and then gave us the map and told us to come back if we still had no luck. So we went around the corner to Temple of Doom. The sign on the Highway says Cenote Calavera (who knew?) which is why we'd missed it earlier. As with our dive at Grand Cenote this was was amazing. Very possibly my best cave dive ever! If you're visiting Mexico, put it on your list of 'must do' dives. Of course, you'll have to climb in and out of the water via a 15 foot ladder, so be prepared for that--but don't let it stop you.

Again, by this point it was late in the afternoon so our diving day was over. Unfortunately so was the diving for the entire trip. We were scheduled to check out of Villas de Rosa at noon on Monday and we stayed in Cancun on Monday night so as to catch our 6:45am flight home on Tuesday. So we spent Monday morning at the Mayan ruins in Tulum and then checked out and headed for Cancun, returning our rented bottles in Playa del Carmen on the way. While we didn't get much diving in, we both enjoyed the trip and will definitely be going back. Armed with what we learned on this trip, I think that our next Mexican adventure will be even more fun and entail more water time.

Here's a list (in no particular order) of the things we wish we had known, or thought of before going to Mexico. Hopefully our experience can save at least a few of you a few headaches.

• Pack a pen for those customs forms on the plane.
• Flying in and out with sorb is no problem, just be sure you carry the MSDS with you. In fact if you could take several copies that would be even better.
• Pack your Meg with the head off. Otherwise the TSA may think that the plenum canister is a cylinder.
• If I had it to do over again, I would arrive during the day and use the remainder of that first day to rent bottles and get settled. That would likely have avoided paying the 'Gringo Tax' to the local police too.
• Xibalba Dive Center provides excellent service, and they are very close to much of the cenote diving. You can find them on line at www.xibalbadivecenter.com
• Given the treatment we received at Villas de Rosa, we'll never stay there again. Next time we'll be staying in Tulum if possible. We've got the names of several hotels, but we'll have to scout them out a bit first. Don Diego de la Selva looks promising.
• If you have a copy of Gerrard's book Cenotes of the Riviera Maya, bring it with you. It contains all sorts of driving directions to various sites.
• "Buzos de cueva" is Spanish for "Cave Divers." Be sure to tell the attendants at cenotes that you are cave divers since the entry prices are often different for us.
• When you leave the Cancun airport, Akumal, Tulum, etc is to the south, which, coming from the airport, is a right turn.
• Be very careful when buying gasoline. All stations are owned by the government and are full service. The attendants at the pump will 'accidentally' shortchange you if you're not watching. Count your change carefully.
• Learn some Spanish. I studied it in high school, which was a long time ago. I'll definitely be brushing up on it before we go back. You don't necessarily need to be fluent, but a little goes a long way.
• Don't change your currency to Pesos in the airport. You'll get a better exchange rate, if you convert your money elsewhere.
• It's customary to tip waiters/waitresses 10-15%.
• Dos Ojos does allow cave divers, you must simply tell them that you only wish to pay the entry fee.

I guess that's it. Like I said, hopefully our experiences will be useful for those heading to Mexico for the first time. Aside from one or two bad experiences we had a great time, and met lots of very friendly people. We're already making plans to go back for another trip.

Brian


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