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Thread: Stuck solenoid

  1. #11
    RBW Member jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk's Avatar
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    HammerMeg

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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    And another. But not a Meg.

    John
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  2. #12
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    HAMMERHEAD!

    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Guys,

    By necessity, the internals of these Solenoids (Jaksa, SnapTite, Kip, et al) have Ferrous metal parts.

    Therefore, "Solenoid Maintenance" and some form of "Replacement" schedule should be a regular thing.

    #1: Cap off your O2 Lines if not connected to the Solenoid Input. On the Meg, they use a QD connector which is Sealed - that should be sufficient to keep random schmootz from getting in there, but a lot of guys make the mistake of NOT blowing it out before inserting the O2 Male line in there - any salt water (from the dip tank, or spray from the side of the boat) can and will be forced into the Solenoid if you don't ensure that salty water isn't in either Male of Female sides of the QC before mating.

    #2: Make sure you get no salt water in your O2 1st Stage. First Stages are made of nickle plated brass or stainless, and can tolerate a lot of salt water, so their lack of failure is no measure of whether or not your O2 line is full of atomized salt crystals.

    #3: Learn how to take your Solenoid apart and inspect in inside of it. These things are not terribly complicated, and with a little practice, you can learn how to be your own inspection technician.

    #4: Get on a regular schedule of replacement. 100 hours of actual dive time seems to be a good interval, based on what we've seen over the years in our shop. If you screw up on a trip, and blow salt water into your Solenoid, don't assume it will just get better - get it replaced.


    Understanding the component, and it's weaknesses will guide you as to how to treat it, and when to fix it.

    Safe diving to all,


    Kevin Juergensen
    Juergensen Marine, Inc.

  3. #13
    RBW Member matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram is just really nice matthewoutram's Avatar
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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Quote Originally Posted by heyydude  View Original Post
    Guys,

    #1: Cap off your O2 Lines if not connected to the Solenoid Input.
    #2: Make sure you get no salt water in your O2 1st Stage.
    #3: Learn how to take your Solenoid apart and inspect in inside of it.
    #4: Get on a regular schedule of replacement. 100 hours of actual dive time seems to be a good interval, based on what we've seen over the years in our shop. If you screw up on a trip, and blow salt water into your Solenoid, don't assume it will just get better - get it replaced.

    Kevin Juergensen
    Juergensen Marine, Inc.
    This mostly sounds like good advice, especially 1-3. I'm not so sure about #4, I've cleaned mine once in the last 500 hours and it looks clean and tidy inside, and at the last service it was not mentioned as needing changing.

    Does anyone have experience of the solenoid failing? Mine has failed twice in 10 years - once a broken spring and once just some dirt that I cleaned away. Both times the solenoid failed closed, symptom of falling PPO2, unit run manually with no ill-effects.

    Anyone any other experiences (especially with those rusty ones in the pictures!)?

    I have a friend who has a faulty solenoid recently which did cause a short and some battery/electronics issues.

    All my experience is on an Inspiration Classic.

    Cheers
    Matt.

  4. #14
    RBW Member jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk has a reputation beyond repute jkaterenchuk's Avatar
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    HammerMeg

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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Quote Originally Posted by matthewoutram  View Original Post
    Anyone any other experiences (especially with those rusty ones in the pictures!)?
    I bought a set of electronics from a guy on your side of the pond. Of course he said it only had a couple of dives and was like new. Since I have purchased all my CCR's used one of the first things I do is check them out completely, do any maintenance and replace worn parts. The solenoid failed the initial check so I started to troubleshoot the voltages only to find it was not electrical but rather a mechanical failure.

    Like he said "its new only had a couple of dives"

    I had one other failure on a solenoid that became apparent during a liveaboard trip in Thailand. While I was doing my pre-dive written checklist it appeared the solenoid would not actuate. A couple minutes of problem solving turned up a bad solder joint on one of the wire attachements to the solenoid. A quick fix and I did not even miss the dive.

    John

    John

  5. #15
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    Meg 2.7, Hammermeg, copis meg

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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    I had a stuck open solenoid occur during a dive a few years ago, I finished the dive closing the o2 valve and opening to maintain po2. That evening I disassembled the valve and found the culprit. It was a small metal fiber which lodged itself on the seat. Since then I disassemble and clean the solenoid on a yearly basis. I am also carefull to assemble the O2 feed before going on the boat to make sure nothing foreign or water ingress into the unit.

    A few weeks ago a buddy of mine brought his Meg over his solenoid was not shutting off. It was an older model with the snaptite solenoid which I took apart and all I found was a mess of lubricants impeding the seat, cleaned it and so far so good.

    Gabe

  6. #16
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    JJ, Flex

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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Yup, they are very simple to disassemble and clean. But as Kevin said, they are necessarily ferrous, so you can't just throw everything in the ultrasonic cleaner. When the ferrous parts get rusty, you have to replace it. I carry a spare in my kit.

    Ken

  7. #17
    RBW Member ljjljj64 is an unknown quantity at this point ljjljj64's Avatar
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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Quote Originally Posted by wedivebc  View Original Post
    have you taken it apart? It is very simple mechanism.
    Dave, I saw your post, by chance can you send me the instruction on how to disassemble the solenoid.

    ljjljj64@hotmail.com

    Lawrence Jeff Johnson

  8. #18
    Dave Tomblin wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc has a reputation beyond repute wedivebc's Avatar
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    Hollis Prism 2, Megalodon

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    Re: Stuck solenoid

    Quote Originally Posted by divingabe  View Original Post
    Here is the link from Post #4 of this thread. Good description.
    Cheers,

    Dave....

    www.wedivebc.com

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