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Thread: DIY temp stick.

  1. #11
    Darlene Starr - DIY Diva Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Using a LM34's or LM35's (for temp in F or C) and a pic would be the easiest way electronically.

    I'd look at the PIC 18F46K20, as it's very low power, comes in DIY friendly 40 pin DIP packaging, and has 13 internal A/D channels. The PIC18 series can be programmed with C.

    The LM34/35's are 3 pin TO92 package (looks like a small transistor) ICs that output 10mv per degree and require a 5v supply.

    The major challenges would be cabling that many conductors, 15 for 13 sensors, which could put 1 every inch of a foot long scrubber, and potting the sensors on a pcb with their faces at the surface of the potting ready to mate to the scrubber.

    Using a graphic mode capable LCD like in the link seems to be the most user friendly/intuitive display concept. Just have a verticle bar graph for each sensor.


    Anyway, if I was going to make myself one, that's how I'd plan it.


    Darlene

  2. #12
    RBW Member kavka is an unknown quantity at this point kavka's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Atmel controler and DS1820 temp sensor is another way. 1wire comunication.
    Regards Gorazd

  3. #13
    Darlene Starr - DIY Diva Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Quote Originally Posted by kavka  View Original Post
    Atmel controler and DS1820 temp sensor is another way. 1wire comunication.
    Regards Gorazd

    The DS1820, .. an Excellent idea!

    Solves the cabling issue and allows for a less sophisticated, smaller package, less costly, microcontroller. Would even work with some of the "basic stamp" microcontrollers that program in easy to learn, pbasic.

    Cool, ... now somebody go build one.....


    Darlene

  4. #14
    RBW Member Diving Pete is on a distinguished road Diving Pete is on a distinguished road Diving Pete's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    & don't forget the write-up.

  5. #15
    RBW Member kavka is an unknown quantity at this point kavka's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scuba_Vixen  View Original Post
    The DS1820, .. an Excellent idea!

    Solves the cabling issue and allows for a less sophisticated, smaller package, less costly, microcontroller. Would even work with some of the "basic stamp" microcontrollers that program in easy to learn, pbasic.

    Cool, ... now somebody go build one.....


    Darlene
    No problem building one of those. I just need to finish my rb to put it in.
    Regards Gorazd

  6. #16
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  7. #17
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    No matter how I imagine incoprorating this, I just cannot see how it could work in a radial. (my axial idea should be ok though).

    Cheers,
    Hunter

  8. #18
    Darlene Starr - DIY Diva Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    The DS1820 is no longer recommended for new designs, and is basically "drop in" replaced by the DS18S20.

    The S20 is almost always code compatable with the original 1820, except that it takes about 750 ms (milli seconds) per conversion, versus 500 ms for the original 1820. This could be an issue depending on the code used. ..... Meaning that it's a good idea to look carefully at info gleaned from projects on the web to see exactly which 1820 version is being used....

    But better yet, is the DS18B20, which can be run in various resolution levels, 9bit to 12bit for accuracy from .5 degrees to .0625 degrees.

    The advantage here is that half a degree accuracy is more than enough for this application, and in 9bit mode, the conversion time is less than 100ms as opposed to the 750ms of the S20.


    There's a ton of stuff out on the net usefull for this project, just colating it and putting it all together in beta form should be most of the task.

    The DS18B20 and S20 from DigiKey run about $5 a pop. Here's the datasheets:

    http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdf

    http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/DS18S20.pdf


    Not that I really "need" one all that badly, but it is a good excuse for a DigiKey order.



    Darlene

  9. #19
    RBW Member bubbleless2004 is an unknown quantity at this point bubbleless2004's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Hi,

    I built one in about 2002 phill posted his idea up.

    The main problem with these units is that if you put several on one line all you need is three wires and it works great.

    I prototyped with the in hole device I think its a T092 ( not sure, three legged thing) used 10 sensors over the length of the scrubber.

    It worked well but I had to change the code for the individual sensors as these are addressed separately, you can use one on each input line and just as whatever is on that channel to give you a reading(lots of wires for lots of sensors.

    Or quiz the device to get the address and write the code accordingly.

    Don't get hung up on specific temperature, as it makes no difference you need to know where the temperature front is .

    I was going to do a surface mount version but got tired of fixing leaks etc so it got put in the development box.

  10. #20
    Darlene Starr - DIY Diva Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen has a brilliant future Scuba_Vixen's Avatar
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    Re: DIY temp stick.

    Quote Originally Posted by bubbleless2004  View Original Post
    Hi,

    I built one in about 2002 phill posted his idea up.

    The main problem with these units is that if you put several on one line all you need is three wires and it works great.

    I prototyped with the in hole device I think its a T092 ( not sure, three legged thing) used 10 sensors over the length of the scrubber.

    It worked well but I had to change the code for the individual sensors as these are addressed separately, you can use one on each input line and just as whatever is on that channel to give you a reading(lots of wires for lots of sensors.

    Or quiz the device to get the address and write the code accordingly.

    Don't get hung up on specific temperature, as it makes no difference you need to know where the temperature front is .

    I was going to do a surface mount version but got tired of fixing leaks etc so it got put in the development box.

    Interesting you should pop in on this at this time...


    Not that I need one of these, mind you, but it does seem to be an interesting challenge.

    I'm thinking more along the lines of an external unit with the sensors ( surface exposed) potted on a pcb that could then be thermally bonded to the outside of a scrubber housing. Using one more sensor than you need for scrubber measurements (on the opposite side of the pcb, & facing away from the scrubber housing) to monitor the ambient temp to use as a baseline, would allow the unit to work in any water temp with the graph always showing scrubber temps relative to ambient. This way you'd always be seeing the front temp above ambient.

    Keeping track of the ROM code for each sensor (once you determine it) as you place them in order on your pcb isn't too hard, but it's necessary to be able to access them sequentially with the code in their same physical order as on the pcb.

    Displaying the data in a graphic format could even be done without actually using a glcd, by creating special characters for a 2X16 or 4X20 display.

    That would allow the project to be based on an easy to use BasicStamp2p series.

    For greater control of the display format, a PIC would be more suitable.

    I'll be making a test pcb, probably this week, with sockets for the sensors and try some initial coding for the Stamp shortly after.

    If you still have the PIC code, I'd love to see it.

    Darlene
    Last edited by Scuba_Vixen; 22nd October 2009 at 00:04.

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