More HH Feedback

PCDiver · 17th July 2006, 10:20

Hi all,

I just returned from a wreck tour in Croatie diving the HH electronics on a Inspiration.

Before the trip I had issues with the primary still recording depth at the surface. I was not able to completely solve these issues because of a sinus barotrauma what luckily for me completely healed before the trip.

The last action I took before the trip was to widen the hole in the metal bezel. I used a drill with a 1.5 mm diameter. After dive 1 in Croatie: same result. Depth: varied between 1 to 2 meters at the surface. Back at the base I removed the metal and the plastic bezel. I took the depth sensor out (very carefully). I cleaned the hole in the plastic bezel and filled it completely with silicone grease. I pushed the depth sensor, put the two small screws in and connected the wires. Depth reading on primary: 1 meter. Then I unscrewed the screws half a turn. Depth reading: 0. Autoshut down after two minutes. The depth reading on the primary functioned PERFECTLY afterwards. It gave the same reading as my VR3 (down to 60 meters) and 0 at the surface.

Second problem: wet sensors. These sensors are very, very sensitive to salt. Salt crystals in the sensor will keep the handsets active for hours, actually until the battery dies. Solution: rinse with fresh water and dry the unit after the dive. I used a small air gun to blow the sensor dry. If the units don't switch off after the auto shut down interval you could use a tooth pick to scratch away any remaining salt crystals. This worked for me but I find it too cumbersome. I'm going to disconnect the wetsensor on the primary and increase the auto shut down time to 10 or 15 minutes. Ten minutes is enough for me to get into the water after my check routine. If the primary were to shut off automatically before the dive, the secondary will alert me of any problem. And the primary will be activated automatically by the depth sensor.

Reboot problem: SOLVED. I had no reboot problems after squeezing the threads.

Battery status: This feature is absolutely necessary. I'm going to beg Kevin to give me access to the debug menu since that menu apparently contains voltage info. The other solution is to buy or build a battery tester.

Corrosion problem: SOLVED. No more corrosion with the new casings.

PS. If you open your handset, getting the o-ring back in is tricky. The o-ring pops out of the o-ring groove before you can put the plastic bezel on it. The trick we used is to put the o-ring in the freezer for a couple of minutes. The o-ring is stiffer when cold and does not pop out that easily.

PS2. Most of the above actions should not be done without JM's approval.

Hope this helps,

Peter

***jradomski*** · 17th July 2006, 10:36

Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver)

Hi all,

I just returned from a wreck tour in Croatie diving the HH electronics on a Inspiration.

Before the trip I had issues with the primary still recording depth at the surface. I was not able to completely solve these issues because of a sinus barotrauma what luckily for me completely healed before the trip.

The last action I took before the trip was to widen the hole in the metal bezel. I used a drill with a 1.5 mm diameter. After dive 1 in Croatie: same result. Depth: varied between 1 to 2 meters at the surface. Back at the base I removed the metal and the plastic bezel. I took the depth sensor out (very carefully). I cleaned the hole in the plastic bezel and filled it completely with silicone grease. I pushed the depth sensor, put the two small screws in and connected the wires. Depth reading on primary: 1 meter. Then I unscrewed the screws half a turn. Depth reading: 0. Autoshut down after two minutes. The depth reading on the primary functioned PERFECTLY afterwards. It gave the same reading as my VR3 (down to 60 meters) and 0 at the surface.

Second problem: wet sensors. These sensors are very, very sensitive to salt. Salt crystals in the sensor will keep the handsets active for hours, actually until the battery dies. Solution: rinse with fresh water and dry the unit after the dive. I used a small air gun to blow the sensor dry. If the units don't switch off after the auto shut down interval you could use a tooth pick to scratch away any remaining salt crystals. This worked for me but I find it too cumbersome. I'm going to disconnect the wetsensor on the primary and increase the auto shut down time to 10 or 15 minutes. Ten minutes is enough for me to get into the water after my check routine. If the primary were to shut off automatically before the dive, the secondary will alert me of any problem. And the primary will be activated automatically by the depth sensor.

Reboot problem: SOLVED. I had no reboot problems after squeezing the threads.

Battery status: This feature is absolutely necessary. I'm going to beg Kevin to give me access to the debug menu since that menu apparently contains voltage info. The other solution is to buy or build a battery tester.

Corrosion problem: SOLVED. No more corrosion with the new casings.

PS. If you open your handset, getting the o-ring back in is tricky. The o-ring pops out of the o-ring groove before you can put the plastic bezel on it. The trick we used is to put the o-ring in the freezer for a couple of minutes. The o-ring is stiffer when cold and does not pop out that easily.

PS2. Most of the above actions should not be done without JM's approval.

Hope this helps,

Peter

Peter,

Why don't you try enlarging the hole around the wetswitch like Paul did?? Kevin did this on a batch of units and so far feedback has been good..

two other changes that Kevin has made to the next batch is to, enlarge the hole in the lens, the hole in the bezel no longer exists for the pressure transduce but now there is a channel on the backside of the bezel that insures water can easily flow from the lens opening or fro, the outer edge of the bezel..

when reattaching the sensor, the tightening the screws on the back side is critical.. if they arent evenly tightened or tightened too much they slightly deform the pressure sensor and will induce a depth readng..

PCDiver · 17th July 2006, 10:47

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

Peter,

Why don't you try enlarging the hole around the wetswitch like Paul did?? Kevin did this on a batch of units and so far feedback has been good..

Hey Joe,

Can you explain how enlarging this hole would help?
Also, do you happen to have a picture of the new bezels (plastic and metal)?

PC

***jradomski*** · 17th July 2006, 11:13

Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver)

Hey Joe,

Can you explain how enlarging this hole would help?
Also, do you happen to have a picture of the new bezels (plastic and metal)?

PC

Don't have any pics (dont have the new ones myself)..

The wetswitch is a voltage threshold on the pin to ground (ground being the case) the greater the distance the higher the effective resistance.. if there is any residue the greater resistance increases the chances that there will not be enough continuity to cross the threshold..

Kevin did away with the hole on the bezel because strong light can trigger the depth sensor and send the unit diving.. You would see the depth on the primary, but would not know this on the secondary if it is in classic mode..

PCDiver · 17th July 2006, 11:27

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

The wetswitch is a voltage threshold on the pin to ground (ground being the case) the greater the distance the higher the effective resistance.. if there is any residue the greater resistance increases the chances that there will not be enough continuity to cross the threshold..

Got it. Do you know the diameter of the drill that Paul used?

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 17th July 2006, 15:05

I don't have the newest bezel with the elimination of the depth sensor hole. However, I have the newer cases.

I did two more dives yesterday. No problems. I am making sure I use Salt-X for soaking when I get home after the dives. I soak for about 30 minutes or so, swishing here and there to make sure to remove anything that might have had a chance to work its way into the depth sensor. After, I soak in water for a few minutes and swish to make sure of removing the Salt-X water.

After this procedure, I dried with a towel, and I had no problems getting the main to go to sleep, and the secondary shut down per my settings.

PCDiver · 17th July 2006, 15:13

Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami)

I don't have the newest bezel with the elimination of the depth sensor hole. However, I have the newer cases.

I did two more dives yesterday. No problems. I am making sure I use Salt-X for soaking when I get home after the dives. I soak for about 30 minutes or so, swishing here and there to make sure to remove anything that might have had a chance to work its way into the depth sensor. After, I soak in water for a few minutes and swish to make sure of removing the Salt-X water.

After this procedure, I dried with a towel, and I had no problems getting the main to go to sleep, and the secondary shut down per my settings.

This is all good and well when you dive close to home. Diving from a liveaboard or daytrips where it takes a couple of hours to get back to the harbour makes this very cumbersome. I don't tend to lug cleaning stuff or Salt-X with me. I already have enough to carry. The handsets need to switch after a quick rinse in fresh water and drying with a towel. Period.

If I can't get Joe's/Paul's trick to work, I'll disconnect the wet switch on the primary.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 17th July 2006, 15:24

Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver)

This is all good and well when you dive close to home. Diving from a liveaboard or daytrips where it takes a couple of hours to get back to the harbour makes this very cumbersome. I don't tend to lug cleaning stuff or Salt-X with me. I already have enough to carry. The handsets need to switch after a quick rinse in fresh water and drying with a towel. Period.

If I can't get Joe's/Paul's trick to work, I'll disconnect the wet switch on the primary.

I completely agree and understand. I didn't mean that I do this on the boat.

When I am on the boat, I just try to rinse and dry the units between dives. Depending on how long it will be between dives and the travel time to get out to the site (or to the next site), I even use plastic freezer bags over the sets to keep the water spray from activating them.

The Salt-X and all of that I do at home to make sure that salt crystals and the like don't have a chance to build up inside over the course of several outings. Sorry if I wasn't clear about it.

PCDiver · 17th July 2006, 15:35

Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami)

I completely agree and understand. I didn't mean that I do this on the boat.

When I am on the boat, I just try to rinse and dry the units between dives. Depending on how long it will be between dives and the travel time to get out to the site (or to the next site), I even use plastic freezer bags over the sets to keep the water spray from activating them.

The Salt-X and all of that I do at home to make sure that salt crystals and the like don't have a chance to build up inside over the course of several outings. Sorry if I wasn't clear about it.

OK. Got your point. Preventive maintenance at home. Makes sense.

PCDiver · 31st July 2006, 22:35

Hi all,

just to let you know that the recommendation to increase the hole around the wetswitch in the SS bezel works. I widened the holes on the SS bezels with a 9 mm drill. After the dives I rinsed the handsets and dried them with a towel. The handsets switched automatically off after the preset auto shut down time.

Thanks to Joe and Kevin for this trick.

17th July 2006, 10:20	#1 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	More HH Feedback Hi all, I just returned from a wreck tour in Croatie diving the HH electronics on a Inspiration. Before the trip I had issues with the primary still recording depth at the surface. I was not able to completely solve these issues because of a sinus barotrauma what luckily for me completely healed before the trip. The last action I took before the trip was to widen the hole in the metal bezel. I used a drill with a 1.5 mm diameter. After dive 1 in Croatie: same result. Depth: varied between 1 to 2 meters at the surface. Back at the base I removed the metal and the plastic bezel. I took the depth sensor out (very carefully). I cleaned the hole in the plastic bezel and filled it completely with silicone grease. I pushed the depth sensor, put the two small screws in and connected the wires. Depth reading on primary: 1 meter. Then I unscrewed the screws half a turn. Depth reading: 0. Autoshut down after two minutes. The depth reading on the primary functioned PERFECTLY afterwards. It gave the same reading as my VR3 (down to 60 meters) and 0 at the surface. Second problem: wet sensors. These sensors are very, very sensitive to salt. Salt crystals in the sensor will keep the handsets active for hours, actually until the battery dies. Solution: rinse with fresh water and dry the unit after the dive. I used a small air gun to blow the sensor dry. If the units don't switch off after the auto shut down interval you could use a tooth pick to scratch away any remaining salt crystals. This worked for me but I find it too cumbersome. I'm going to disconnect the wetsensor on the primary and increase the auto shut down time to 10 or 15 minutes. Ten minutes is enough for me to get into the water after my check routine. If the primary were to shut off automatically before the dive, the secondary will alert me of any problem. And the primary will be activated automatically by the depth sensor. Reboot problem: SOLVED. I had no reboot problems after squeezing the threads. Battery status: This feature is absolutely necessary. I'm going to beg Kevin to give me access to the debug menu since that menu apparently contains voltage info. The other solution is to buy or build a battery tester. Corrosion problem: SOLVED. No more corrosion with the new casings. PS. If you open your handset, getting the o-ring back in is tricky. The o-ring pops out of the o-ring groove before you can put the plastic bezel on it. The trick we used is to put the o-ring in the freezer for a couple of minutes. The o-ring is stiffer when cold and does not pop out that easily. PS2. Most of the above actions should not be done without JM's approval. Hope this helps, Peter
(Online)

17th July 2006, 10:36	#2 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 3,113	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver) Hi all, I just returned from a wreck tour in Croatie diving the HH electronics on a Inspiration. Before the trip I had issues with the primary still recording depth at the surface. I was not able to completely solve these issues because of a sinus barotrauma what luckily for me completely healed before the trip. The last action I took before the trip was to widen the hole in the metal bezel. I used a drill with a 1.5 mm diameter. After dive 1 in Croatie: same result. Depth: varied between 1 to 2 meters at the surface. Back at the base I removed the metal and the plastic bezel. I took the depth sensor out (very carefully). I cleaned the hole in the plastic bezel and filled it completely with silicone grease. I pushed the depth sensor, put the two small screws in and connected the wires. Depth reading on primary: 1 meter. Then I unscrewed the screws half a turn. Depth reading: 0. Autoshut down after two minutes. The depth reading on the primary functioned PERFECTLY afterwards. It gave the same reading as my VR3 (down to 60 meters) and 0 at the surface. Second problem: wet sensors. These sensors are very, very sensitive to salt. Salt crystals in the sensor will keep the handsets active for hours, actually until the battery dies. Solution: rinse with fresh water and dry the unit after the dive. I used a small air gun to blow the sensor dry. If the units don't switch off after the auto shut down interval you could use a tooth pick to scratch away any remaining salt crystals. This worked for me but I find it too cumbersome. I'm going to disconnect the wetsensor on the primary and increase the auto shut down time to 10 or 15 minutes. Ten minutes is enough for me to get into the water after my check routine. If the primary were to shut off automatically before the dive, the secondary will alert me of any problem. And the primary will be activated automatically by the depth sensor. Reboot problem: SOLVED. I had no reboot problems after squeezing the threads. Battery status: This feature is absolutely necessary. I'm going to beg Kevin to give me access to the debug menu since that menu apparently contains voltage info. The other solution is to buy or build a battery tester. Corrosion problem: SOLVED. No more corrosion with the new casings. PS. If you open your handset, getting the o-ring back in is tricky. The o-ring pops out of the o-ring groove before you can put the plastic bezel on it. The trick we used is to put the o-ring in the freezer for a couple of minutes. The o-ring is stiffer when cold and does not pop out that easily. PS2. Most of the above actions should not be done without JM's approval. Hope this helps, Peter Peter, Why don't you try enlarging the hole around the wetswitch like Paul did?? Kevin did this on a batch of units and so far feedback has been good.. two other changes that Kevin has made to the next batch is to, enlarge the hole in the lens, the hole in the bezel no longer exists for the pressure transduce but now there is a channel on the backside of the bezel that insures water can easily flow from the lens opening or fro, the outer edge of the bezel.. when reattaching the sensor, the tightening the screws on the back side is critical.. if they arent evenly tightened or tightened too much they slightly deform the pressure sensor and will induce a depth readng.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
(Offline)

17th July 2006, 10:47	#3 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) Peter, Why don't you try enlarging the hole around the wetswitch like Paul did?? Kevin did this on a batch of units and so far feedback has been good.. Hey Joe, Can you explain how enlarging this hole would help? Also, do you happen to have a picture of the new bezels (plastic and metal)? PC
(Online)

17th July 2006, 11:13	#4 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 3,113	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver) Hey Joe, Can you explain how enlarging this hole would help? Also, do you happen to have a picture of the new bezels (plastic and metal)? PC Don't have any pics (dont have the new ones myself).. The wetswitch is a voltage threshold on the pin to ground (ground being the case) the greater the distance the higher the effective resistance.. if there is any residue the greater resistance increases the chances that there will not be enough continuity to cross the threshold.. Kevin did away with the hole on the bezel because strong light can trigger the depth sensor and send the unit diving.. You would see the depth on the primary, but would not know this on the secondary if it is in classic mode.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
(Offline)

17th July 2006, 11:27	#5 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) The wetswitch is a voltage threshold on the pin to ground (ground being the case) the greater the distance the higher the effective resistance.. if there is any residue the greater resistance increases the chances that there will not be enough continuity to cross the threshold.. Got it. Do you know the diameter of the drill that Paul used?
(Online)

17th July 2006, 15:05	#6 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,215	Re: More HH Feedback I don't have the newest bezel with the elimination of the depth sensor hole. However, I have the newer cases. I did two more dives yesterday. No problems. I am making sure I use Salt-X for soaking when I get home after the dives. I soak for about 30 minutes or so, swishing here and there to make sure to remove anything that might have had a chance to work its way into the depth sensor. After, I soak in water for a few minutes and swish to make sure of removing the Salt-X water. After this procedure, I dried with a towel, and I had no problems getting the main to go to sleep, and the secondary shut down per my settings. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

17th July 2006, 15:13	#7 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami) I don't have the newest bezel with the elimination of the depth sensor hole. However, I have the newer cases. I did two more dives yesterday. No problems. I am making sure I use Salt-X for soaking when I get home after the dives. I soak for about 30 minutes or so, swishing here and there to make sure to remove anything that might have had a chance to work its way into the depth sensor. After, I soak in water for a few minutes and swish to make sure of removing the Salt-X water. After this procedure, I dried with a towel, and I had no problems getting the main to go to sleep, and the secondary shut down per my settings. This is all good and well when you dive close to home. Diving from a liveaboard or daytrips where it takes a couple of hours to get back to the harbour makes this very cumbersome. I don't tend to lug cleaning stuff or Salt-X with me. I already have enough to carry. The handsets need to switch after a quick rinse in fresh water and drying with a towel. Period. If I can't get Joe's/Paul's trick to work, I'll disconnect the wet switch on the primary.
(Online)

17th July 2006, 15:24	#8 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,215	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver) This is all good and well when you dive close to home. Diving from a liveaboard or daytrips where it takes a couple of hours to get back to the harbour makes this very cumbersome. I don't tend to lug cleaning stuff or Salt-X with me. I already have enough to carry. The handsets need to switch after a quick rinse in fresh water and drying with a towel. Period. If I can't get Joe's/Paul's trick to work, I'll disconnect the wet switch on the primary. I completely agree and understand. I didn't mean that I do this on the boat. When I am on the boat, I just try to rinse and dry the units between dives. Depending on how long it will be between dives and the travel time to get out to the site (or to the next site), I even use plastic freezer bags over the sets to keep the water spray from activating them. The Salt-X and all of that I do at home to make sure that salt crystals and the like don't have a chance to build up inside over the course of several outings. Sorry if I wasn't clear about it. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

17th July 2006, 15:35	#9 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	Re: More HH Feedback Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami) I completely agree and understand. I didn't mean that I do this on the boat. When I am on the boat, I just try to rinse and dry the units between dives. Depending on how long it will be between dives and the travel time to get out to the site (or to the next site), I even use plastic freezer bags over the sets to keep the water spray from activating them. The Salt-X and all of that I do at home to make sure that salt crystals and the like don't have a chance to build up inside over the course of several outings. Sorry if I wasn't clear about it. OK. Got your point. Preventive maintenance at home. Makes sense.
(Online)

31st July 2006, 22:35	#10 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 1,003	Re: positive result with wetswitch Hi all, just to let you know that the recommendation to increase the hole around the wetswitch in the SS bezel works. I widened the holes on the SS bezels with a 9 mm drill. After the dives I rinsed the handsets and dried them with a towel. The handsets switched automatically off after the preset auto shut down time. Thanks to Joe and Kevin for this trick.
(Online)

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