HammerHead Revisions and Issues

Mark Chase · 24th August 2006, 18:00

Quote: (Originally Posted by paulraymaekers)

just a warning: be very carefull when removing the screws from the HH bezel: the slightest resistence you notice, screw in again, 1/4 tour out, in, out, in, out...never force the screw out: if you do, the helicoil inside will be damaged!

regards
paul

Useful info. Thanks for that.

ATB

Mark Chase

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 25th August 2006, 04:58

I am thinking about maintenance issues.

When I got the new handsets, I opened up the battery compartment, and I cleaned everything with whatever ProGold now calls itself. Then, I put conductive lubricant on the inside of the caps.

Now that it has been a while, should I go and take off the conductive lubricant, and re-clean the caps and the base of the spring, and re-apply the conductive lubricant? If I don't need to do anything with the cap and the base of the spring, I was just going to use some ProGold on the part of the spring that touches the battery, and then I was going to clean the positive battery contact. (That conductive lubricant is messy.)

My sets work fine. I just want to keep them that way. I don't see anything going on inside the battery case.

In the end, just how often should I clean, and how extensive should this be?

***jradomski*** · 25th August 2006, 06:02

Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami)

I am thinking about maintenance issues.

When I got the new handsets, I opened up the battery compartment, and I cleaned everything with whatever ProGold now calls itself. Then, I put conductive lubricant on the inside of the caps.

Now that it has been a while, should I go and take off the conductive lubricant, and re-clean the caps and the base of the spring, and re-apply the conductive lubricant? If I don't need to do anything with the cap and the base of the spring, I was just going to use some ProGold on the part of the spring that touches the battery, and then I was going to clean the positive battery contact. (That conductive lubricant is messy.)

My sets work fine. I just want to keep them that way. I don't see anything going on inside the battery case.

In the end, just how often should I clean, and how extensive should this be?

just keep the battery side of the spring clean, the conductive lubricant will protect the other side of the spring and cap..

If any conductive lubricant gets in the bottom, clean it up with a q-tip around the contact.. we dont want any shorts.

**woody** · 25th August 2006, 16:36

After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage.

After having invested in the recommended Saft LS14500, I thought I would give them a go on the new tester......... Mmmmm, not one of these cells went over 10% life and all were at 2.1 volts from 3.6 with no load. How pi@$ed am I? These batteries were new and were not better then the used ones with a couple of hours on them firing the solenoid. These cells have been stored according tho the manufactures instructions.

The real rub is that I bought some considerably cheaper lithium 3.0v cells that are all showing at least 80% life and 2.8V under load.

To the experts out there, am I missing something with these cells? Have I been ripped off with less than fresh cells?

The tester does not seem to be lying to me as I have used new 1,5V alkaline and got 100% and 1.5V.

Help me, I don't want to go out and buy more cells to find I have missed something with the characteristics of the different makes etc.

Thanks in advance for your help

R

Mike

cys · 25th August 2006, 17:02

Quote: (Originally Posted by woody)

After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage.

Can you post the type and model of tester you are using?...

**woody** · 25th August 2006, 18:04

The tester is an Ansmann Energy check.

Mike

***jradomski*** · 25th August 2006, 19:15

Quote: (Originally Posted by woody)

After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage.

After having invested in the recommended Saft LS14500, I thought I would give them a go on the new tester......... Mmmmm, not one of these cells went over 10% life and all were at 2.1 volts from 3.6 with no load. How pi@$ed am I? These batteries were new and were not better then the used ones with a couple of hours on them firing the solenoid. These cells have been stored according tho the manufactures instructions.

The real rub is that I bought some considerably cheaper lithium 3.0v cells that are all showing at least 80% life and 2.8V under load.

To the experts out there, am I missing something with these cells? Have I been ripped off with less than fresh cells?

The tester does not seem to be lying to me as I have used new 1,5V alkaline and got 100% and 1.5V.

Help me, I don't want to go out and buy more cells to find I have missed something with the characteristics of the different makes etc.

Thanks in advance for your help

R

Mike

if your no load ratings are correct, you got some bad cells... look at the lot coding and see if you can determone how old they were.....

Good new lithium cells I find drop to abut 3.4v-3.5v under a good load.. OC voltage is usually 3.6V+

ATTN: this thread will be cleaned up( in the next few days) and many post deleted/joined to make it easier to have issues floowed.. so a new persn doesnt have to read 77 messages

zmcave · 9th September 2006, 21:36

Ok, really happy here. I had a day of diving without any HH issue.
I finally received conductive lubricant and used it, flatten the threads, cleaned everything with deoxit gold, checked battery voltage and the HH worked perfectly. No rebooting!!
Got to do 2 dives today on the local quarry, 150 minutes down, practiced emergency drills, one dive all on manual fly. Had a little trouble identifying colors on the Diva when close to surface (sunny day).

thanks all for the awesome tips.

Zé.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 9th September 2006, 23:18

Quote: (Originally Posted by zmcave)

Had a little trouble identifying colors on the Diva when close to surface (sunny day).

A hose protector works nicely to enable seeing the HUD in brighter light.

Andy_C · 2nd October 2006, 21:12

Hi

Very soon when I've put the touches to my rebuilt Inspiration with Hammerhead electronics & Kiss valve, I'm going to start diving a Hammerhead.

Have bought a dozen of those recommended Saft LS14500 cells & wana keep the electronics as good as I can. I'm based in the UK. Can anyone recommend Brand names of the magic sprays & potions you guys are using to keep contacts clean & ensure good connections ?

Thanks

Andy

24th August 2006, 18:00	#71 (permalink)
Mark Chase I go down for ages Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kent Posts: 2,522	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by paulraymaekers) just a warning: be very carefull when removing the screws from the HH bezel: the slightest resistence you notice, screw in again, 1/4 tour out, in, out, in, out...never force the screw out: if you do, the helicoil inside will be damaged! regards paul Useful info. Thanks for that. ATB Mark Chase __________________ Is it supposed to make that noise ? I took my unit to the dive shop and demanded they bolt on every thing that would fit. Join my elite diving teem and get a Tshirt "Doing It Chasey"Hammerhead Eccr Advanced Diving System
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25th August 2006, 04:58	#72 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,023	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues I am thinking about maintenance issues. When I got the new handsets, I opened up the battery compartment, and I cleaned everything with whatever ProGold now calls itself. Then, I put conductive lubricant on the inside of the caps. Now that it has been a while, should I go and take off the conductive lubricant, and re-clean the caps and the base of the spring, and re-apply the conductive lubricant? If I don't need to do anything with the cap and the base of the spring, I was just going to use some ProGold on the part of the spring that touches the battery, and then I was going to clean the positive battery contact. (That conductive lubricant is messy.) My sets work fine. I just want to keep them that way. I don't see anything going on inside the battery case. In the end, just how often should I clean, and how extensive should this be? __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com Last edited by ScubaDadMiami : 25th August 2006 at 05:03.
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25th August 2006, 06:02	#73 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,846	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami) I am thinking about maintenance issues. When I got the new handsets, I opened up the battery compartment, and I cleaned everything with whatever ProGold now calls itself. Then, I put conductive lubricant on the inside of the caps. Now that it has been a while, should I go and take off the conductive lubricant, and re-clean the caps and the base of the spring, and re-apply the conductive lubricant? If I don't need to do anything with the cap and the base of the spring, I was just going to use some ProGold on the part of the spring that touches the battery, and then I was going to clean the positive battery contact. (That conductive lubricant is messy.) My sets work fine. I just want to keep them that way. I don't see anything going on inside the battery case. In the end, just how often should I clean, and how extensive should this be? just keep the battery side of the spring clean, the conductive lubricant will protect the other side of the spring and cap.. If any conductive lubricant gets in the bottom, clean it up with a q-tip around the contact.. we dont want any shorts. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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25th August 2006, 16:36	#74 (permalink)
woody Mmmm Rubber!! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Inspiration Vision Evolution Sport Kiss Join Date: May 2005 Location: Wiltshire UK Posts: 194	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage. After having invested in the recommended Saft LS14500, I thought I would give them a go on the new tester......... Mmmmm, not one of these cells went over 10% life and all were at 2.1 volts from 3.6 with no load. How pi@$ed am I? These batteries were new and were not better then the used ones with a couple of hours on them firing the solenoid. These cells have been stored according tho the manufactures instructions. The real rub is that I bought some considerably cheaper lithium 3.0v cells that are all showing at least 80% life and 2.8V under load. To the experts out there, am I missing something with these cells? Have I been ripped off with less than fresh cells? The tester does not seem to be lying to me as I have used new 1,5V alkaline and got 100% and 1.5V. Help me, I don't want to go out and buy more cells to find I have missed something with the characteristics of the different makes etc. Thanks in advance for your help R Mike __________________ Not eloquent enough for a smart arse signature! Last edited by woody : 25th August 2006 at 16:39.
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25th August 2006, 17:02	#75 (permalink)
cys ck #157 Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: S. California Posts: 201	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by woody) After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage. Can you post the type and model of tester you are using?...
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25th August 2006, 18:04	#76 (permalink)
woody Mmmm Rubber!! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Inspiration Vision Evolution Sport Kiss Join Date: May 2005 Location: Wiltshire UK Posts: 194	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues The tester is an Ansmann Energy check. Mike __________________ Not eloquent enough for a smart arse signature!
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25th August 2006, 19:15	#77 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,846	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by woody) After reading the advice on this thread and not wanting to get a hit from a handset that wants to reboot because of a low battery, I go out and buy a spanky new digital battery tester. This tester does it all with all the current crop of batteries catered for. It does a check that puts a resistive load across the cell then gives a percentage of life left and a voltage. After having invested in the recommended Saft LS14500, I thought I would give them a go on the new tester......... Mmmmm, not one of these cells went over 10% life and all were at 2.1 volts from 3.6 with no load. How pi@$ed am I? These batteries were new and were not better then the used ones with a couple of hours on them firing the solenoid. These cells have been stored according tho the manufactures instructions. The real rub is that I bought some considerably cheaper lithium 3.0v cells that are all showing at least 80% life and 2.8V under load. To the experts out there, am I missing something with these cells? Have I been ripped off with less than fresh cells? The tester does not seem to be lying to me as I have used new 1,5V alkaline and got 100% and 1.5V. Help me, I don't want to go out and buy more cells to find I have missed something with the characteristics of the different makes etc. Thanks in advance for your help R Mike if your no load ratings are correct, you got some bad cells... look at the lot coding and see if you can determone how old they were..... Good new lithium cells I find drop to abut 3.4v-3.5v under a good load.. OC voltage is usually 3.6V+ ATTN: this thread will be cleaned up( in the next few days) and many post deleted/joined to make it easier to have issues floowed.. so a new persn doesnt have to read 77 messages __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated. Last edited by jradomski : 25th August 2006 at 19:29.
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9th September 2006, 21:36	#78 (permalink)
zmcave www.rebreather.com.br Current Rebreather/s: Optima Dolphin Other Rebreather/s: Optima Dolphin Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brazil Posts: 181	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Ok, really happy here. I had a day of diving without any HH issue. I finally received conductive lubricant and used it, flatten the threads, cleaned everything with deoxit gold, checked battery voltage and the HH worked perfectly. No rebooting!! Got to do 2 dives today on the local quarry, 150 minutes down, practiced emergency drills, one dive all on manual fly. Had a little trouble identifying colors on the Diva when close to surface (sunny day). thanks all for the awesome tips. Zé.
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9th September 2006, 23:18	#79 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,023	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by zmcave) Had a little trouble identifying colors on the Diva when close to surface (sunny day). A hose protector works nicely to enable seeing the HUD in brighter light. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
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2nd October 2006, 21:12	#80 (permalink)
Andy_C New Member Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Stourbridge/West Mids/UK Posts: 34	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Hi Very soon when I've put the touches to my rebuilt Inspiration with Hammerhead electronics & Kiss valve, I'm going to start diving a Hammerhead. Have bought a dozen of those recommended Saft LS14500 cells & wana keep the electronics as good as I can. I'm based in the UK. Can anyone recommend Brand names of the magic sprays & potions you guys are using to keep contacts clean & ensure good connections ? Thanks Andy
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