HammerHead Revisions and Issues

w ripley · 25th May 2008, 13:37

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

Contrast is just an adjustment of a pot.. They way I have seen most set is the normal adjustment.. you can darken the characters a bit but then you may see some artifacting... This is basicaly a dot matrix display and the contrast for all like displays is about the same.. To get significantly greater you need a segmented lcd display like the explorer.. the shape of the segments makes it a higher contrast.. The other alternative is to change the display to one that uses a different color combination, it will be better for some and worse for others..

I have poor vision myslef but have felt the HH has been one of the more readable displays that I have used.. I can read it alot easier than I can read a vr3..

Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming.

I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations.

Regards,

Bill

**Dsix36** · 25th May 2008, 13:49

Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley)

Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming.

I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations.

Regards,

Bill

I would like to second the idea of a little more contrast in the displays. I have always been able to see them, but sometimes it is a bit of a stain on my eyeballs.

jkaterenchuk · 25th May 2008, 14:06

Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley)

Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming.

I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations.

Regards,

Bill

Easier to read....either bigger numbers or better contrast would be on my suggestion list also. I find it particularily difficult in the 80-120 ft range in the NE when there is still enough ambient light to not need a torch. What is readable above 80 ft becomes a strain deeper. Is that a 3 or an 8 or a 6 or a 9 or a 5?

My next step is to buy a Rx mask to see it that helps.

John

**Dsix36** · 25th May 2008, 14:14

Quote: (Originally Posted by jkaterenchuk)

Easier to read....either bigger numbers or better contrast would be on my suggestion list also. I find it particularily difficult in the 80-120 ft range in the NE when there is still enough ambient light to not need a torch. What is readable above 80 ft becomes a strain deeper. Is that a 3 or an 8 or a 6 or a 9 or a 5?

My next step is to buy a Rx mask to see it that helps.

John

The mask probably won't help. I hade my eyeballs zapped with lasar and have great vision. At depth there is still that area that you speak of that is hard to be sure of. I hate wasting battery with the backlite when I don't need light for anything else.

Stephane · 25th May 2008, 14:26

Quote: (Originally Posted by Dsix36)

I hate wasting battery with the backlite when I don't need light for anything else.

But lightning the display with a 10W HID doesn't help much.
I too have difficulties reading the LCD display, I think it's too far from the glass window of the handset.

***jradomski*** · 25th May 2008, 15:01

Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley)

Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming.

I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations.

Regards,

Bill

Bill,
I am not disagreing with you.. on my own projects I use a different type of lcd display.. I prefer FFSTN displays but they are not usually available in extended temperature ranges.. You also generaly need more power for the backlight..

Look at this this link..

Matrix Orbital :: View topic - FSTN VS. FFSTN Negative White and Blue

Negative versions have a very high contrast but require the BL to be constantly activated to read.. positive versions can use ambient light but dont have as high a contrast..

look at
Crystalfontz - CFAH2004A-TFH-JT
vs
Crystalfontz - CFAH2004A-TFH-JT

I have used both of these (original version) in my own projects ( I like bigger displays :0 )

jiseson · 25th May 2008, 15:07

on the metal handsets-there is an orange and blue o rings from DR-are those Vitron? hard to avoid getting noalox on them

jiseson · 25th May 2008, 15:31

did 2 1 hr dives on the USS San Digego ( New Jersey & Long Island New York Scuba Diver - Dive Sites - USS San Diego Shipwreck) . using Duracell AA. I tested them both pre dive 1.62 volts and 100% on my new battery current tester. post dive 1.25 and 1.28 volts (most of dive flying manualy). current was only 20% and 40% for pulse loads which were pre dive 100%. So i am coming to conclusion that i will be using the Saft 3.6 for extended dives, Shorter dives can get away with the use AA s -but will probably always use the Safts' in my Primary.

***jradomski*** · 25th May 2008, 16:48

Quote: (Originally Posted by jiseson)

on the metal handsets-there is an orange and blue o rings from DR-are those Vitron? hard to avoid getting noalox on them

Blue is usually flurosilicone (not sure about whats in the HH) but orange/red is usually normal silicone.. FS is ok with petroleum products, standard is not..

If your having trouble with the lubricant you have too much.. You really just need a little

***jradomski*** · 25th May 2008, 16:51

Quote: (Originally Posted by jiseson)

did 2 1 hr dives on the USS San Digego ( New Jersey & Long Island New York Scuba Diver - Dive Sites - USS San Diego Shipwreck) . using Duracell AA. I tested them both pre dive 1.62 volts and 100% on my new battery current tester. post dive 1.25 and 1.28 volts (most of dive flying manualy). current was only 20% and 40% for pulse loads which were pre dive 100%. So i am coming to conclusion that i will be using the Saft 3.6 for extended dives, Shorter dives can get away with the use AA s -but will probably always use the Safts' in my Primary.

Its the cold thats really beating up the alkaline cells.. You will get better performance out of lithium 1.5v aa cells or of course LS14500 saft cells.. avoid the LST cells if possible..

25th May 2008, 13:37	#151 (permalink)
w ripley Sorta New Member Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other CCR Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Norfolk VA USA Posts: 144	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) Contrast is just an adjustment of a pot.. They way I have seen most set is the normal adjustment.. you can darken the characters a bit but then you may see some artifacting... This is basicaly a dot matrix display and the contrast for all like displays is about the same.. To get significantly greater you need a segmented lcd display like the explorer.. the shape of the segments makes it a higher contrast.. The other alternative is to change the display to one that uses a different color combination, it will be better for some and worse for others.. I have poor vision myslef but have felt the HH has been one of the more readable displays that I have used.. I can read it alot easier than I can read a vr3.. Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming. I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations. Regards, Bill
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25th May 2008, 13:49	#152 (permalink)
Dsix36 Going Down? Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Deerfield Beach, Florida Posts: 1,062	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley) Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming. I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations. Regards, Bill I would like to second the idea of a little more contrast in the displays. I have always been able to see them, but sometimes it is a bit of a stain on my eyeballs. __________________ THE MORE THAT I LEARN, THE MORE THAT I STILL NEED TO LEARN!!!!!!
(Online)

25th May 2008, 14:06	#153 (permalink)
jkaterenchuk . Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Megalodon Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: May 2006 Location: Lititz, PA Posts: 827	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley) Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming. I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations. Regards, Bill Easier to read....either bigger numbers or better contrast would be on my suggestion list also. I find it particularily difficult in the 80-120 ft range in the NE when there is still enough ambient light to not need a torch. What is readable above 80 ft becomes a strain deeper. Is that a 3 or an 8 or a 6 or a 9 or a 5? My next step is to buy a Rx mask to see it that helps. John
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25th May 2008, 14:14	#154 (permalink)
Dsix36 Going Down? Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Deerfield Beach, Florida Posts: 1,062	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by jkaterenchuk) Easier to read....either bigger numbers or better contrast would be on my suggestion list also. I find it particularily difficult in the 80-120 ft range in the NE when there is still enough ambient light to not need a torch. What is readable above 80 ft becomes a strain deeper. Is that a 3 or an 8 or a 6 or a 9 or a 5? My next step is to buy a Rx mask to see it that helps. John The mask probably won't help. I hade my eyeballs zapped with lasar and have great vision. At depth there is still that area that you speak of that is hard to be sure of. I hate wasting battery with the backlite when I don't need light for anything else. __________________ THE MORE THAT I LEARN, THE MORE THAT I STILL NEED TO LEARN!!!!!!
(Online)

25th May 2008, 14:26	#155 (permalink)
Stephane Stéphane Acounis Current Rebreather/s: rEvo Other Rebreather/s: rEvo Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Nantes - France Posts: 769	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by Dsix36) I hate wasting battery with the backlite when I don't need light for anything else. But lightning the display with a 10W HID doesn't help much. I too have difficulties reading the LCD display, I think it's too far from the glass window of the handset. __________________ Stéphane
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25th May 2008, 15:01	#156 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 3,009	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley) Thanks for the info. I'm glad you can see the displays so well. Still, you asked for input and I think the displays could (should) be easier to see. Just something I wish the idea people at Juergensen would take another look at the next time they're sitting around brainstorming. I do like the HH electronics and wouldn't want to go into the water without them. Most of the time I can see the displays pretty well, but there are times that I do struggle to see what's going on. I think more contrast would be helpful in those situations. Regards, Bill Bill, I am not disagreing with you.. on my own projects I use a different type of lcd display.. I prefer FFSTN displays but they are not usually available in extended temperature ranges.. You also generaly need more power for the backlight.. Look at this this link.. Matrix Orbital :: View topic - FSTN VS. FFSTN Negative White and Blue Negative versions have a very high contrast but require the BL to be constantly activated to read.. positive versions can use ambient light but dont have as high a contrast.. look at Crystalfontz - CFAH2004A-TFH-JT vs Crystalfontz - CFAH2004A-TFH-JT I have used both of these (original version) in my own projects ( I like bigger displays :0 ) __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated. Last edited by jradomski : 25th May 2008 at 15:19.
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25th May 2008, 15:07	#157 (permalink)
jiseson DSIX/O2PTIMA Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: long island,ny Posts: 560	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues on the metal handsets-there is an orange and blue o rings from DR-are those Vitron? hard to avoid getting noalox on them __________________ *Jonathan D Iseson* Last edited by jradomski : 25th May 2008 at 16:48. Reason: removed my answer hit edit instead of quote
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25th May 2008, 15:31	#158 (permalink)
jiseson DSIX/O2PTIMA Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: long island,ny Posts: 560	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues-battery capacity did 2 1 hr dives on the USS San Digego ( New Jersey & Long Island New York Scuba Diver - Dive Sites - USS San Diego Shipwreck) . using Duracell AA. I tested them both pre dive 1.62 volts and 100% on my new battery current tester. post dive 1.25 and 1.28 volts (most of dive flying manualy). current was only 20% and 40% for pulse loads which were pre dive 100%. So i am coming to conclusion that i will be using the Saft 3.6 for extended dives, Shorter dives can get away with the use AA s -but will probably always use the Safts' in my Primary. __________________ *Jonathan D Iseson*
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25th May 2008, 16:48	#159 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 3,009	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues Quote: (Originally Posted by jiseson) on the metal handsets-there is an orange and blue o rings from DR-are those Vitron? hard to avoid getting noalox on them Blue is usually flurosilicone (not sure about whats in the HH) but orange/red is usually normal silicone.. FS is ok with petroleum products, standard is not.. If your having trouble with the lubricant you have too much.. You really just need a little __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
(Online)

25th May 2008, 16:51	#160 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 3,009	Re: HammerHead Revisions and Issues-battery capacity Quote: (Originally Posted by jiseson) did 2 1 hr dives on the USS San Digego ( New Jersey & Long Island New York Scuba Diver - Dive Sites - USS San Diego Shipwreck) . using Duracell AA. I tested them both pre dive 1.62 volts and 100% on my new battery current tester. post dive 1.25 and 1.28 volts (most of dive flying manualy). current was only 20% and 40% for pulse loads which were pre dive 100%. So i am coming to conclusion that i will be using the Saft 3.6 for extended dives, Shorter dives can get away with the use AA s -but will probably always use the Safts' in my Primary. Its the cold thats really beating up the alkaline cells.. You will get better performance out of lithium 1.5v aa cells or of course LS14500 saft cells.. avoid the LST cells if possible.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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