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Molex advice



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Old 4th March 2008, 08:47   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Molex advice

I am trying to wire in a rEvodream to two of my three cells that are connected to a Shearwater. Is 'piggy-backing' the two moles pins and then heat shrink tube the most effective way and is it a secure electrical connection? Alternatively I considered soldering the wires from the rEvo and the Shearwater together, sealing the joint and then running a single molex from the joint. Any comments or ideas welcomed.
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Old 4th March 2008, 09:19   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Molex advice

Maybe you could incorporate molex headers as with the Shearwater HUD installation on a Kiss, here.

Quote: (Originally Posted by Divein) View Original Post
I am trying to wire in a rEvodream to two of my three cells that are connected to a Shearwater. Is 'piggy-backing' the two moles pins and then heat shrink tube the most effective way and is it a secure electrical connection? Alternatively I considered soldering the wires from the rEvo and the Shearwater together, sealing the joint and then running a single molex from the joint. Any comments or ideas welcomed.
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Old 4th March 2008, 10:43   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Molex advice

Quote: (Originally Posted by Divein) View Original Post
I am trying to wire in a rEvodream to two of my three cells that are connected to a Shearwater. Is 'piggy-backing' the two moles pins and then heat shrink tube the most effective way and is it a secure electrical connection? Alternatively I considered soldering the wires from the rEvo and the Shearwater together, sealing the joint and then running a single molex from the joint. Any comments or ideas welcomed.

I have just hardwired mine in, as I had a few bad connections with the piggy-back method.
By keeping the joint where the two (well four) wires connects a little ways from the sensor, keep the wires a bit more flexible. Something you'll appreciate when trying to make it look clean and neat.

But since you are doing it on a homebuild unit, why don't you make a small connection box where you assemble the wires, potting the whole thing, and then have three sensor wires running from that.
Takes an hour more to build, but eliminates a lot of birds nest syndrome and keeps the joints guarenteed dry.
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Old 4th March 2008, 18:29   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Molex advice

Thanks for the replies guys.

I am probably going down the soldering route. My cells are in a Tecme cell holder so I am a little tight for space. I would stuggle to fit a connector box in there. Do you know what size wire would be best to use for crimping the molex pins to? I don't want to use something that would increase electrical resistance.

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 4th March 2008, 18:44   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Molex advice

Quote: (Originally Posted by Divein) View Original Post

Do you know what size wire would be best to use for crimping the molex pins to? I don't want to use something that would increase electrical resistance.
Not sure of what the best is, but when I contacted Jetsam they told me they use 24 gauge stranded wire with their displays, and that worked out fine with the molex pins when I added a Shearwater HUD to my unit. I also used liquid electrical tape to seal the joints.
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Old 4th March 2008, 19:54   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Molex advice

Quote: (Originally Posted by Johnny Christensen) View Original Post
I have just hardwired mine in, as I had a few bad connections with the piggy-back method.
By keeping the joint where the two (well four) wires connects a little ways from the sensor, keep the wires a bit more flexible. Something you'll appreciate when trying to make it look clean and neat.

But since you are doing it on a homebuild unit, why don't you make a small connection box where you assemble the wires, potting the whole thing, and then have three sensor wires running from that.
Takes an hour more to build, but eliminates a lot of birds nest syndrome and keeps the joints guarenteed dry.
if its a homebuild & your gonna cut them in why stay with molex ? i'd ditch them and fit some prewired coax ends .cheap and easy.
just remove litttle disc on connector and fill with fast cure epoxy to seal.
bed the soldered joint in polyurethane sealant topped off with the correct size heatshrink slid over the joint with a healthy overlap and shrink before it cures to make it tidy and add strength .


thats if your happy with replacing all the cells.
not a big fan of molex in ccr seems a shite connection system to me.
elfyn
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Last edited by julieann charters : 4th March 2008 at 22:01.
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