I'm not really happy with todays HUDS..

caveseeker7

You have two right red/green LEDs in your manual?

Left to right, inspired by the MK handset LEDs, it should be:
red/green for system warnings as you noted
blue for low pO2
red/green for high/on target pO2

There should be a pulsating green LED, it should be auto-dimming depending
on ambient light as not to destroy your vision. Alarms are not dimmed.

I left out the battery/cell status LED, but the info is in the article in the library.
Same as the start up and calibration signals.

__________________
Cheers
Stefan



"It is still a good day if you are on the green side of the grass!

Su amigo Roberto!"

Sponsor Lou in Race For Life!

PnL

Okay, since I dive a rEvo I should point out how the rEvo Dreams HUD works. It has three LEDs. When everything is groovy and your ppO2 is within the setpoint range you specified in the Dreams, it looks like this:

__________________
SDTechDiving.com - A San Diego Technical Diving Community

JS1scuba

My Subsea HUD on the DS-1 is really simple

Green = Good
Slow Red = Low PO2 (look at meter)
Fast Red = High PO2 (look at meter)

It's like my SPG Arrow Straight up Good - Arrow Left Bad -- Arrow Far Right overfilled

I like the Datamask concept (just not the Datamask) -- a true HUD should give you the data in the mask. The rest is all just dashboard lights.

My purpose of diving is diving, not to remember a detailed sequence of dots, dashes, flashes and blips. When the tool begins to control the dive then you have lost your control of it all.

Just my 2 cents

JDS

__________________
Joel Silverstein, VP COO
Tech Diving Limited a Division of Scuba Training and Technology Inc.

http://www.nautilusdiveplanner.com
FREE NAUTILUS DIVE PLANNER DEMO - REGISTER HERE
KISS # 275

sunnyboy

I quoted right out of my Prism manual - which also agrees with my HUD.

There is only one right led - it can display green/dim red/bright red/flashing red. The center led is either off or blue.

Not quite sure what you mean by pulse. If mine is pulsing, then it's a pretty minor as it is not something I notice underwater. Likewise the dim-red bright-red is pretty hard to detect underwater.

However, it doesn't really matter. Blue means O2 below setpoint, green means A-OK and red means O2 above setpoint. Flashing red means PO2 above 1.55. You can only ever see one of these colors at any one time as the trigger conditions are all mutually exclusive.

I also left out calibration / power-up modes.

-S

aainslie

I'm with Joel.

Simplicity is key. I really like the Vision philosophy. Sure, it stays green in a wide range - but since your deco is off the actual PO2, you can handle a PO2 shift for a little while without bad consequences.

One problem in general is getting the chance to experience alarms. I had one on Sunday - one of my O2 cells was out of synch with the others. The alarm was brief and to the point - a red flash and a couple of beeps as it switched to ignoring that cell. It REALLY got my attention - I was hovering over the BOV switch as I checked the handset. That was after a very brief flash and beep - a continuous flash and beep would be impossible to ignore.

But I could see a continuous disco of flashes and colours finally getting your brain to tune them out.

So - I'm perfectly happy with my Vision, and like the "all steady green until there's a problem", in conjunction with their differentiating between one qiuck beep/flash to warn you of a minor event vs a more alarming process for something that needs interevention. This way when something flashes or beeps it gets your immediate undivided attention since it's so different from the flashless norm.

__________________
Andrew Ainslie

Underwaterbear

Semantics, gents.

Sunnyboy, your original post had two "RIGHT LEDs" in your description. And Stefan was just pointing put that the Left LED (aka "the other RIGHT one" or the "Green, or really a kind of orange at depth, and sometimes red one") should flicker slightly with each cycle of the setpoint controller (ie several times each second) - this lets you know the thing hasn't hung on you. It dims with low ambient light and turns red, brightens and flashes with increasing ppO2.

The other two do not dim as they are warning Leds and flash as described, or in the case of most prisms, frequently for no apparent reason.

The whole purpose of the HUD is really just to lure you into a false sense of security and then to make you shit yourself and look at the secondary when you get a christmas tree!

Cheers
AB

sunnyboy

You are correct. I see my error in the original post. It should have been:

As you said... "the other right green one".

But I gotta tell you - that pulsing green OK is so "on the edge of noticeable" as to be almost non-existent. I would not describe it as pulsing, but I guess that's what it is doing. It's like the dim red/bright red - I would really be surprised if you can distinguish between them on a dive at say 100fsw unless you actually saw the red change from dull to bright.

As to the left leds flashing for no apparent reason, I've found that if you get them flashing during a dive, it usually means "time to pro-gold the cell contacts again". So far my unit has been performing nominally.

Cheers,

-S

JS1scuba

HI Andrew -- i'm working on a HUD BALL -- You read it to the beat of the Electric Slide ........



Cheers

JDS

aainslie

Hmmm - I'm extrapolating a little here Joel but I assume that the black means this is a group of GUE divers doing unified team drills... so they're putting that disco ball on the RB80?

Cool!

__________________
Andrew Ainslie

LagunaResearch

The challenge here is that the HUD needs to be a fairly small thing AND fundamentally it needs to convey the difference between OK and check your gauges... and it would be good to know if you seriously need to check. It gets more complicated since with a minimalized display, it's pretty hard to put in too many options that make a general intuitive sense- There are a lot of ways to do this but the more conditions displayed, the more work it is to remember if it isn't your particular way of thinking-

We (Laguna Research) stuck with a pretty minimal scheme- Green is good, Red is high or low but within livable bounds (and different blink behaviors for the color blind...)- and these are ambient light level controlled. REALLY BRIGHT EXTREME FLASHING RED is the alert to act now. It doesn't tell you what direction you are off but that is something you should have a clue about by dive actions, etc.. We kept the blue to indicate system errors only as separate from PPO2 issues.

Obviously, anything that works for someone is going to be the right choice, but overall, the less going on, the easier it is to react to.

__________________
Wayne Miller
Laguna Research, Inc
www.lagunaresearch.com
949-484-4515v
530-468-2257f