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Few first shots



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Old 17th January 2007, 07:52   #1 (permalink)
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Few first shots

I uploaded some pics from hte third dive I did with the new housing and strobe.

Please comment But kindly...

http://www.rebreatherworld.com/photo...500/ppuser/244

JH
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Old 17th January 2007, 09:32   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

I'll be happy when I'll be able to take the same ones.
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Old 17th January 2007, 15:35   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Looks pretty good. Where did you take the pictures?
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Old 17th January 2007, 17:50   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Quote: (Originally Posted by Andre) View Original Post
Looks pretty good. Where did you take the pictures?
André
Place called Ojamo. It is 70km from Helsinki and a quite popular dive and cave diving site. It is an old mine.
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Old 17th January 2007, 22:11   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Have seen a video of the Ojamo Mine before. One day but worth a trip for sure.

www.slps.net/slps/pictures/2004/finland_01/dive688/movies/ojamo.html
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Last edited by Explorer : 17th January 2007 at 22:18. Reason: Found the video link
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Old 18th January 2007, 03:39   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Quote: (Originally Posted by Explorer) View Original Post
Have seen a video of the Ojamo Mine before. One day but worth a trip for sure.

www.slps.net/slps/pictures/2004/finland_01/dive688/movies/ojamo.html
It is a nice ceve diving site. Scooter is almost a must there if you don´t like long swims...
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Old 18th January 2007, 08:37   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Hi Jhaaja

Nice shots, wish I had a cave diving site to pop into when I needed to do some diving. Here we have only the ocean, and rigth now it's crap after all the storms.

A few comments. Good strobe coverage, from what I can see only a single unit?
There is just a small tendency for the strobelight to slightly overexposed. Try bracketing with about 1/3 to 1 f-stop less when you shoot a picture.

If you are running the strobe by TTL, then do that from the camera's flash compensation. Without knowing the Canon fully, I would guess that it is possible to setup as a autofunction in the menu.

If you are running the strobe in manual, adjust your aperture in small increments by the camera. It may also be possible to program the camera to do a autocompensation on that. Depending if you are in manual, aperture, shutterspeed or program mode.

When getting into situations when you want to blend the ambient light with strobelight, and the ambient light level is very low. Then slow shutterspeeds are your solution, but that also introduces problems with camera movement. I saw one of the pictures had a little ghost image in the background. Where strobelight made the image in the beginning, then camera moved slightly, ambient light took over and made a double image of the rock corner.
You can minimise that by switching to "rear curtain sync" on the camera. It's one of the options for flash control. That way the strobe fires just before the shutter closes, rather than in the beginning. You are able to shoot far better pictures using slow shutterspeeds with that.

I was recently shooting pictures of the Danish female freediving team that was going to Egypt for the World Cup. We where in a indoor pool with poor light, so I had to use 1/10 to 1/15sec shutterspeeds. They moved really fast, basicly like seals on cocaine, so all pictures was shot at continious shooting. Out of the 250 pictures I shot in 45 minutes, 220 was in technically good quality. And 72 where in publishing quality.
That was thanks to "rear curtain sync". Had I shot it with regular front curtain sync, there may have been only 10-20 in a publishing quality, and a whole lot more for the bin due to camera movement.
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Old 18th January 2007, 09:19   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Quote: (Originally Posted by Johnny Christensen) View Original Post
Hi Jhaaja

Nice shots, wish I had a cave diving site to pop into when I needed to do some diving. Here we have only the ocean, and rigth now it's crap after all the storms.

A few comments. Good strobe coverage, from what I can see only a single unit?
There is just a small tendency for the strobelight to slightly overexposed. Try bracketing with about 1/3 to 1 f-stop less when you shoot a picture.

If you are running the strobe by TTL, then do that from the camera's flash compensation. Without knowing the Canon fully, I would guess that it is possible to setup as a autofunction in the menu.

If you are running the strobe in manual, adjust your aperture in small increments by the camera. It may also be possible to program the camera to do a autocompensation on that. Depending if you are in manual, aperture, shutterspeed or program mode.

When getting into situations when you want to blend the ambient light with strobelight, and the ambient light level is very low. Then slow shutterspeeds are your solution, but that also introduces problems with camera movement. I saw one of the pictures had a little ghost image in the background. Where strobelight made the image in the beginning, then camera moved slightly, ambient light took over and made a double image of the rock corner.
You can minimise that by switching to "rear curtain sync" on the camera. It's one of the options for flash control. That way the strobe fires just before the shutter closes, rather than in the beginning. You are able to shoot far better pictures using slow shutterspeeds with that.

I was recently shooting pictures of the Danish female freediving team that was going to Egypt for the World Cup. We where in a indoor pool with poor light, so I had to use 1/10 to 1/15sec shutterspeeds. They moved really fast, basicly like seals on cocaine, so all pictures was shot at continious shooting. Out of the 250 pictures I shot in 45 minutes, 220 was in technically good quality. And 72 where in publishing quality.
That was thanks to "rear curtain sync". Had I shot it with regular front curtain sync, there may have been only 10-20 in a publishing quality, and a whole lot more for the bin due to camera movement.
Thanks a lot for the comments! It is great that you are willing to share your knowledge to a beginner!

Did you mean this picture, where there is a ghost image?














This picture is from my first dive with the camera. I tried using AV-mode on this dive. On this picture I remember that the exposure time was 6s

After that I have used manual mode. I have been using F2.8 & 1/60 and F4 & 1/30. The pictures from Ojamo are all taken with F4 & 1/30.

I have the flash in TTL mode and I have adjusted the exposure level only on the computer.

While you were taking pictures of the divers did you use panning?
I have to search if my camera has that option for flash timing.

Thanks once more!

JH
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Old 18th January 2007, 11:56   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

I am sorry I know nothing about photography so can't offer any advice.

Nice photos

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Old 19th January 2007, 09:43   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Few first shots

Quote: (Originally Posted by Johnny Christensen) View Original Post
If you are running the strobe by TTL, then do that from the camera's flash compensation. Without knowing the Canon fully, I would guess that it is possible to setup as a autofunction in the menu.

When getting into situations when you want to blend the ambient light with strobelight, and the ambient light level is very low. Then slow shutterspeeds are your solution, but that also introduces problems with camera movement. I saw one of the pictures had a little ghost image in the background. Where strobelight made the image in the beginning, then camera moved slightly, ambient light took over and made a double image of the rock corner.
You can minimise that by switching to "rear curtain sync" on the camera. It's one of the options for flash control. That way the strobe fires just before the shutter closes, rather than in the beginning. You are able to shoot far better pictures using slow shutterspeeds with that.

I found the rear curtain sync from the menus. Have to give it a try!

I have the TTL circuitry on the Ike housing. I have been using the flash as auto TTL without any compensation. For compensation I can use the Ikes circuit that I can access really easy on the back of the housing or cameras own. Do not know which is better or is there really any difference. Will have to test.

So much to learn...
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