Pressurized Ikelite Housing

Underwaterbear

Certainly do. Can you point me towards a housing for a digital camera that will do 120m and has reasonable functionality?

RonMicjan

Aquatica, gates, subal, light and motion...

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Ron
"Life is pain princess, anyone who tells you different, is selling something", The Dread Pirate Wesley.


www.tmishop.com Diving bits etc.

Underwaterbear

Thats areal nice list Ron.
Respectively they seem good for:
90m, 137m if you own the right camera, 70m, cant find the rating on the L&M but it don't matter it only fits 2 cameras.

In short, unless you're lucky or rich, you're screwed for a housingthat will go this deep.

Anyhow, wheres the fun in buying something when you could waste hours and much $ making something?

PeteS

....Seacam. My dome is a special build rated to 125m.

And yes, I have an arm and a leg missing.....

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Pete S.

http://www.steggle.co.nz

Every silver lining has a cloud

decoweenie

Sure, I see your point now...

Seriously, I have been messing around with a couple 2nd-hand cheaper deals of housing not rated for the depth. And after a lot of frustration and wasted dives, I have decided to always go for the right tool in the first place. It is cheaper at the end based on my experience, but YMMV.

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RonMicjan

hey, if you wanted a cheap hobby, there is always motorcycle racing...

I have been using a sea and sea housing wrapped around my canon d60 for 2 years now, it still works at 270, but I wouldnt want to drop it, rated for 200, but aint everything conservative

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Ron
"Life is pain princess, anyone who tells you different, is selling something", The Dread Pirate Wesley.


www.tmishop.com Diving bits etc.

Tim Cashman

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...ring_intro.cfm

I have considered this problem too.

First the design of the O Ring groove can be seen on efunda link above.

If the groove and the O ring follow these recommendations they will seal thousands of PSI so diving depths are nothing to worry about.
So long as the compression pressure of the two sealing faces on the O ring is greater than the gas / liquid pressure either side it won't leak.

The crush depth of the housing is the problem.
If it ain't strong enough it will either implode completely or distort.
If the housing distorts, then the O ring will not be compressed correctly in its groove and it will leak.
If seawater gets in it will short the battery and may cause an explosion (hydrogen) as well as rooting the camera.

To prevent distortion of a weak housing, I thought about equalising the internal pressure with the external pressure by fitting a dry suit inflator type fitting to the housing and plugging a medium pressure hose to it with the interstage pressure set to only 2 or 3 bar. That should stop it inflating the housing like a football?
An overpressure valve such as that used on the O2 reg of an inspiration, would let off excess gas during the ascent. Might need adjusting to blow off at a lower pressure though?

The other concern I had was what would be the effect of HP air on the electronics of the camera or the magnetic tape or the batteries??
Should I use dry nitrogen to avoid possible oxidation of circuitry over time, and to ensure a completely dry atmosphere??

(Just for good measure:- would the camera run if immersed in clear diesel?!)

Its all starting to get too messy.

I experienced a torch implosion in a cave at 125m and I thought the roof had collapsed, so I can personally assure everyone that the consequences of an implosion at depth are quite spectacular and best avoided at all costs.

In the end I went with a totally sealed tube that could handle the target pressure. (So far so good, but if this lets go I'll be deaf for life)

Its all good fun eh?

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