What digital camera casing for 40m+ diving?

Mdemon · 12th July 2005, 15:11

Hi All,

Does anyone have any experience of underwater camera cases rated to 40m, specifically have you taken them deeper and what would you push them too?

I ask because I want a digital camera for underwater pictures and want to take pictures in the 60m+ range. For the sake of argument, <=100m. I don't want to buy a camera now to have to replace it later... Cases like this seem to be few and far between - either they or the cameras are very expensive...

Does such a beast exist please?

Got to be digital. Cheap good! Would consider eBay/second hand if people recommend a make...

By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc?

TIA!

John

***caveseeker7*** · 12th July 2005, 16:40

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon)

Got to be digital. Cheap good!

Cheap and deep don't go together in UW housings.

Quote:

By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc?

The better digicams have bulb setting, however, during long exposure most all of them generate 'artifacts' in th dark areas (wrongly colored pixels). Depending on camera and exposure that can range from a few pixels here and there to taking longer to fix than earning the money for a flash.

decoweenie · 12th July 2005, 17:34

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon)

Does such a beast exist please?

Yes, but not easily to chose as there are a lot of options.

I am a complete beginner u/w photo/video guy, but having gone thru a number of housing units in the last 1-2 years just to learn by trial-and-error, I will share my personal experience with you (if any of it will help).

In short...

First of all, 100m-housing is a completely different beast altogether.
Second, 50-60m mark is the "standard" limit for most housings.
Third, 40m is an easy mark and could be solved very easily.

Long story...

Most Sony/Panasonic/Canon plastic housings from the respective manufacturers will do 30-40m officially, and a little bit more if you are brave. These housings are in the US$300 range, compact, easy to obtain and maintain. The difficult part for these housings is the external flash connection.

The next step is the 50-60m housings. This is where you will find the most options on housing and accessories.

There are only a handful of housings capable of going to the 100m mark. Aquatica and Light&Motion come to mind, plus a few more.

So my advise is if you want to buy one housing for all the depths, then pick a max depth and chose one eventhough you only have plan to go there later.

deepseacowboy · 12th July 2005, 20:17

Go Amphibico - you won't be disappointed. I have their housing for the Sony F-707 and have had it down below 250 feet without incident.

www.amphibico.com
I notice it's not on their website - contact them to see if there might be one kicking around.

jqn · 12th July 2005, 20:51

Also a beginner. The only housing I have had is an Amphibico for digital video. I have had it down to 225 without any problems. Well built and all the buttons worked properly.

Jerry

decoweenie · 12th July 2005, 20:58

I have had these housings at depth:

Gates
Amphibico
Light & Motion
USVH
Subal

All, with the exception of Subal, performed perfectly.

The Subal model that I had sufferred from too weak spring force to work past 200ft/60m eventhough the housing was pressure-proof to 230ft/70m.

Gadget · 12th July 2005, 21:37

I have run light and motion houings for a number of years for video. had no problems with the housings at depth with operation, in fact the last housing i bought L&M informed me if i was taking it past 300ft then they could up grade the springs to stop some of the switches malfunctioning.

only problem with L&M is you are kind of restrictecd to sony cameras.

decoweenie · 12th July 2005, 21:45

Quote: (Originally Posted by Gadget)

only problem with L&M is you are kind of restrictecd to sony cameras.

... which is not a bad thing.

For example, I bought a used StingRay-II housing which was made for larger size video cameras. Then I use a smaller size video camera so the package will be positively-buoyant.

That way, I could mount it on my scooter and adjust the total buoyancy with the scooter for neutral.

Now, when I let go of the scooter, the camera will remain upright and keep on filing instead of flipping upside down.

Since the controls are feeding electronically via the Sony LANC protocol, if you flood one camera, simple put in another one that would fit inside the housing. If using a mechanical system (like Gates) then it will be more difficult to find replacement with exact/close to approximate button locations.

Just what I have found out so far...

Scuba_Vixen · 13th July 2005, 00:04

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon)

Hi All,

Does anyone have any experience of underwater camera cases rated to 40m, specifically have you taken them deeper and what would you push them too?

I ask because I want a digital camera for underwater pictures and want to take pictures in the 60m+ range. For the sake of argument, <=100m. I don't want to buy a camera now to have to replace it later... Cases like this seem to be few and far between - either they or the cameras are very expensive...

Does such a beast exist please?

Got to be digital. Cheap good! Would consider eBay/second hand if people recommend a make...

By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc?

TIA!

John

You weren't specific about whether you wanted video or still. Both can be digital.

In brief, therer are more housings for 100m depths for video than for still.

Video works better in low light than still.

Housings for 100m depths are in the US $3000 and up range (for a new one)

The housings for still cameras in that depth capable range are typically for the very high end digital SLR's which are several thousand $$ US.

Ikelite has probably the * best bang for the buck * with housings for about any camera that are rated to 200' (60m) Some folks have taken them a bit more with no issues.

The housings made by the camera makers themselves, (Olympus, & Cannon for example) are very low end, and very much for the recreational diver. They typically have a 100' or so depth rating, and not the best track record for not leaking.

You also usually have to use the camera's internal flash, which is about uselessly inadequate for anything more than a half meter away underwater.

One of the most popular combinations for a decent UW setup, without breaking the bank, has been the Olympus C 5060 with the Ikelite housing. An even better starting place now for a budget concious buyer with the C 8080 becoming so popular..

You can probably find a decent one for a good price on Ebay from some one who is upgrading to the C 8080 model, which is *Very* nice.

I use the Olympus C 8080 with the Ikelite housing and dome port with Ikelite digital strobes and i'm wayyyyyy happy with it, On the other hand, my SS scooter was cheaper, so if $$ is a consideration, find an Olympus C 5060 with an Ike housing and enjoy reliving you adventures over and over.

Darlene

***caveseeker7*** · 13th July 2005, 00:21

Guys, I believe John is talking about still cameras.
Digital camera, bulb exposure, taking low light pictures ...
Gates only has a still housing for the out of production Sony F707/717 rated to their usual 450 fsw.
Light & Motion only has the Nikon D100 and the Olympus 5060/7070
But there are several still camera only manufactures like Seacam ...

12th July 2005, 15:11	#1 (permalink)
Mdemon SiegeEngine II Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Home Build Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: SWUK Posts: 1,932	What digital camera casing for 40m+ diving? Hi All, Does anyone have any experience of underwater camera cases rated to 40m, specifically have you taken them deeper and what would you push them too? I ask because I want a digital camera for underwater pictures and want to take pictures in the 60m+ range. For the sake of argument, <=100m. I don't want to buy a camera now to have to replace it later... Cases like this seem to be few and far between - either they or the cameras are very expensive... Does such a beast exist please? Got to be digital. Cheap good! Would consider eBay/second hand if people recommend a make... By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc? TIA! John __________________ www.southwestmafia.com "small minds talk about people, Average Minds Talk About Events, GREAT MINDS TALK ABOUT IDEAS!" The WRONG Attitude will get you killed. "Once the agenda-monkeys and perfect-worlders have moved on, perhaps we can do some diving?"
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12th July 2005, 16:40	#2 (permalink)
*caveseeker7* Who loves ya, baby Current Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Prism Topaz Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Too far from Neverland Posts: 5,462	Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon) Got to be digital. Cheap good! Cheap and deep don't go together in UW housings. Quote: By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc? The better digicams have bulb setting, however, during long exposure most all of them generate 'artifacts' in th dark areas (wrongly colored pixels). Depending on camera and exposure that can range from a few pixels here and there to taking longer to fix than earning the money for a flash. __________________ Cheers Stefan "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.!"
(Offline)

12th July 2005, 17:34	#3 (permalink)
decoweenie Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo Posts: 5,487	Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon) Does such a beast exist please? Yes, but not easily to chose as there are a lot of options. I am a complete beginner u/w photo/video guy, but having gone thru a number of housing units in the last 1-2 years just to learn by trial-and-error, I will share my personal experience with you (if any of it will help). In short... First of all, 100m-housing is a completely different beast altogether. Second, 50-60m mark is the "standard" limit for most housings. Third, 40m is an easy mark and could be solved very easily. Long story... Most Sony/Panasonic/Canon plastic housings from the respective manufacturers will do 30-40m officially, and a little bit more if you are brave. These housings are in the US$300 range, compact, easy to obtain and maintain. The difficult part for these housings is the external flash connection. The next step is the 50-60m housings. This is where you will find the most options on housing and accessories. There are only a handful of housings capable of going to the 100m mark. Aquatica and Light&Motion come to mind, plus a few more. So my advise is if you want to buy one housing for all the depths, then pick a max depth and chose one eventhough you only have plan to go there later.
(Offline)

12th July 2005, 20:17	#4 (permalink)
deepseacowboy DeepSeaCowboy Current Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Canada Posts: 37	Go Amphibico - you won't be disappointed. I have their housing for the Sony F-707 and have had it down below 250 feet without incident. www.amphibico.com I notice it's not on their website - contact them to see if there might be one kicking around.
(Offline)

12th July 2005, 20:51	#5 (permalink)
jqn New Member Current Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: May 2005 Location: So. California Posts: 72	Also a beginner. The only housing I have had is an Amphibico for digital video. I have had it down to 225 without any problems. Well built and all the buttons worked properly. Jerry
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12th July 2005, 20:58	#6 (permalink)
decoweenie Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo Posts: 5,487	I have had these housings at depth: Gates Amphibico Light & Motion USVH Subal All, with the exception of Subal, performed perfectly. The Subal model that I had sufferred from too weak spring force to work past 200ft/60m eventhough the housing was pressure-proof to 230ft/70m.
(Offline)

12th July 2005, 21:37	#7 (permalink)
Gadget Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon rEvo Dolphin Home Build Other Rebreather/s: rEvo Dolphin Home Build Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hoddesdon, Herts. Posts: 163	I have run light and motion houings for a number of years for video. had no problems with the housings at depth with operation, in fact the last housing i bought L&M informed me if i was taking it past 300ft then they could up grade the springs to stop some of the switches malfunctioning. only problem with L&M is you are kind of restrictecd to sony cameras. __________________ Si Lawrence www.divehdi.com
(Offline)

12th July 2005, 21:45	#8 (permalink)
decoweenie Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo Posts: 5,487	Quote: (Originally Posted by Gadget) only problem with L&M is you are kind of restrictecd to sony cameras. ... which is not a bad thing. For example, I bought a used StingRay-II housing which was made for larger size video cameras. Then I use a smaller size video camera so the package will be positively-buoyant. That way, I could mount it on my scooter and adjust the total buoyancy with the scooter for neutral. Now, when I let go of the scooter, the camera will remain upright and keep on filing instead of flipping upside down. Since the controls are feeding electronically via the Sony LANC protocol, if you flood one camera, simple put in another one that would fit inside the housing. If using a mechanical system (like Gates) then it will be more difficult to find replacement with exact/close to approximate button locations. Just what I have found out so far...
(Offline)

13th July 2005, 00:04	#9 (permalink)
Scuba_Vixen e/mCCR Dolphin Pilot Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Home Build Join Date: May 2005 Location: St. Croix USVI Posts: 557	Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon) Hi All, Does anyone have any experience of underwater camera cases rated to 40m, specifically have you taken them deeper and what would you push them too? I ask because I want a digital camera for underwater pictures and want to take pictures in the 60m+ range. For the sake of argument, <=100m. I don't want to buy a camera now to have to replace it later... Cases like this seem to be few and far between - either they or the cameras are very expensive... Does such a beast exist please? Got to be digital. Cheap good! Would consider eBay/second hand if people recommend a make... By the way, is there any way of holding open the shutter on a digital like the Bulb exposure used to be on film cameras? You know, for taking low light pictures of stars etc? TIA! John You weren't specific about whether you wanted video or still. Both can be digital. In brief, therer are more housings for 100m depths for video than for still. Video works better in low light than still. Housings for 100m depths are in the US $3000 and up range (for a new one) The housings for still cameras in that depth capable range are typically for the very high end digital SLR's which are several thousand $$ US. Ikelite has probably the * best bang for the buck * with housings for about any camera that are rated to 200' (60m) Some folks have taken them a bit more with no issues. The housings made by the camera makers themselves, (Olympus, & Cannon for example) are very low end, and very much for the recreational diver. They typically have a 100' or so depth rating, and not the best track record for not leaking. You also usually have to use the camera's internal flash, which is about uselessly inadequate for anything more than a half meter away underwater. One of the most popular combinations for a decent UW setup, without breaking the bank, has been the Olympus C 5060 with the Ikelite housing. An even better starting place now for a budget concious buyer with the C 8080 becoming so popular.. You can probably find a decent one for a good price on Ebay from some one who is upgrading to the C 8080 model, which is Very nice. I use the Olympus C 8080 with the Ikelite housing and dome port with Ikelite digital strobes and i'm wayyyyyy happy with it, On the other hand, my SS scooter was cheaper, so if $$ is a consideration, find an Olympus C 5060 with an Ike housing and enjoy reliving you adventures over and over. Darlene
(Offline)

13th July 2005, 00:21	#10 (permalink)
*caveseeker7* Who loves ya, baby Current Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Prism Topaz Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Too far from Neverland Posts: 5,462	Guys, I believe John is talking about still cameras. Digital camera, bulb exposure, taking low light pictures ... Gates only has a still housing for the out of production Sony F707/717 rated to their usual 450 fsw. Light & Motion only has the Nikon D100 and the Olympus 5060/7070 But there are several still camera only manufactures like Seacam ... __________________ Cheers Stefan "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.!"
(Offline)

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