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| No Viz is BAD Viz ![]() Current Rebreather/s: | Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment Just a sanity check with everyone. As I have only got 20 hours up, I still have a lot to learn about the unit and how it is suppose to perform. I have the APECS 2.01k, and I got the Low Battery Warning at 5.3 - 5.4 Volts loaded. I take it that it would display this at 5.5 Volts approximately as a warning, in case you are diving it when the volts get that low. I did notice that the backlight becomes disabled when the low battery signal has come up and a message does come up to say this is happening. Does this happen to others with the same version as me. I have a battery pack coming to me, hopefully I get it by the weekend, when I replace them, which screws do I take out, to remove the old ones, the top screws where the switch is or the bottom screws that attach the compartment to the lid or all 4 screws??? And as aside, I am really loving diving the Meg now hat I have sorted my weight distribution and total weight out. There is more to learn and I do have many more questions. I will ask those in due course. Last edited by almity1 : 27th August 2007 at 22:45. Reason: Spelling |
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| MEGalomaniac ![]() ![]() Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL USA
Posts: 219
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment I have the same software version as you (don't know if that makes a difference or not) and mine behaves the same way. Note that when the voltage drops low enough that the backlight is disabled, it won't be long before the solenoid is disabled also. In my opinion, when your primary battery drops below 6.0 volts (Load) it's time to replace it. I believe that ISC recommends replacement at 5.0 volts. However I have begun a dive with a load voltage of 5.9v and by the end of the dive I had no backlight and no solenoid. Brian
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| Worship the feminine Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Den Haag (Netherlands)
Posts: 761
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment I've got 2.01j and it does the same. Usually the primary battery wears out sooner than the 2nd. When the primary gets to 6V or so, I swap the primary and secondary. Unscrew the top of the lids where the switch is. Note the reed switch in its carrier. Ensure that it is inplace when replacing the lid (or you won't be able to switch it on). I make my own batteries using Everready's and Duracells. |
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| No Viz is BAD Viz ![]() Current Rebreather/s: | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment In my opinion, when your primary battery drops below 6.0 volts (Load) it's time to replace it. I believe that ISC recommends replacement at 5.0 volts. However I have begun a dive with a load voltage of 5.9v and by the end of the dive I had no backlight and no solenoid. Thanks BrianBrian No problems, very good advice. I started with 5.9 on a dive and ended up with 5.4 and everything was working OK at the end, that was for an hour. What was the stats on your dive??? |
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| Going down on Meg Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Tokyo
Posts: 389
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment My primary battery died last weekend. They do seem to keep going till a little South of 5V, but the recommendation is to change them at 5.7V. It's a major league pain where the Sun don't shine to get ISC's special batteries shipped out to Japan, especially since half of what you're paying for is transportation costs. Fortunately I landed on my feet instead of my rump, for a welcome change: Tanaka-san, under whose tutelage I was, not only had a couple of off-the-shelf lithium cells but some connectors that he had made up himself. That way, I am freed from the need to call ISC for a rush shipment every time my batteries run down. The voltage from a lithium battery drops off sharply at the end of its life, so you should change them around 6.5V, rather than 5.7V. The primary, which needs to do the mechanical job of opening the solenoid, lasts about half as long as the secondary. When my secondary's battery pops its clogs I'll switch the primary into that slot and put a new one in the primary slot. I had been taught to switch off the head as soon as I leave the water, and to turn on at the last minute before entering: none of the people around me were doing that - they were turning on at the dive shop, before even leaving for the beach. They explained that being cameramen they often had a lot to think about before getting in the water, so they didn't want to risk being rushed into the water and forgetting to switch the handsets on. I can't see what they'd be doing during the pre-breathe to forget to switch on, but I now appreciate how being able to use off-the-shelf batteries frees you from having to be quite so miserly in their use. Last edited by Abbo : 28th August 2007 at 04:04. |
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| Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment Has no one used a 9V battery yet ? Unless I remember wrong, IIRC, this was discussed a while back and the ISC electronic could handle the 9V so all needed was making a connectiont o snap the 9V in. I would test it if I have ISC electronic, but I use Shearwater. Regardless, my Shearwater-YBOD is in the process of being fitted with 9V battery to drive the solenoid.
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| WAY past the barber pole ![]() Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet MK 15.X Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Chicago, Illinois, USA
Posts: 529
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Re: Meg Low Battery Warning and Battery Compartment Ah yes- the ceremonial first battery pack replacement. Brings nostalgic tears to my eyes . As previously stated, simply unscrewing the cover of the battery compartment(s) will get the job done. Note that on both of the narrow ends there is a convenient slot into which you can poke a straight bladed screwdriver to help pry the tightly O ring sealed battery compartment cover off. Keep in mind that, in the future, you have other battery pack options. My personal preference is for the 2 C cell lithium battery pack w/ 8 ~ 9 AH rating that will last most folks upwards of 2 years. A 9 v lithium single cell has a 1200 mah rating and works for the APECS 2.0x electronics as well. A simple harness that connects a standard 9 v battery clip to your spent pack’s Molex connector does that trick. Get the polarities correct or you will be sorely (and expen$ively) surprised. Another option is your basic plastic 2 AA cell holder filled w/ 2 lithium 3.6 v AA cells. Their 2400 mah rating more or less duplicates the 5 AA alkaline cells and is far more resistant to cold temperatures. Again, wiring the Molex connector from your spent battery to the clip does the trick and again, same smoke test caveat applies. Have fun! Ken
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