ID of Optima breathing hoses?

Genesis · 2nd January 2006, 22:23

Anyone willing to take a ruler to 'em?

Thanks in advance!

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 2nd January 2006, 23:24

Quote: (Originally Posted by Genesis)

Anyone willing to take a ruler to 'em?

Thanks in advance!

I can tell you that the circumference around the outside is 6 inches. They are the spiral type hoses. So, one can't just cut them to a different size.

Hope this helps.

Genesis · 3rd January 2006, 00:00

Naw, that's not where my interest lies.... (cutting them)

If the ID at the cuffs is 1.75", then its the same as a number of other rebreathers and DSVs - I would hope they'd do that, but you never know....

If you then go over to DRE, you'll find that you can literallly buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate.... (This would mean no quick-disconnects, but that's not an impossible point of attack either, provided you're willing to pay to have the connector parts fabbed)

Marc T · 3rd January 2006, 07:02

buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate....

same problem

, so had a look to draeger parts again, scruber and..... what about that used for a T-pieces http://www.tecme.de/frame_eq2.htm

a little bit expensive but it does exist no?

scubageek · 3rd January 2006, 14:04

There are two sizes on the long hose. On one end it is 1 3/8 inches and on the other end it is 1 1/4 inches
The small hoses are 1 1/4 on both ends.
Good luck

Genesis · 3rd January 2006, 14:06

Thanks - not what I wanted to hear, but that's ok - it is what it is!

Genesis · 3rd January 2006, 18:32

Quote: (Originally Posted by Marc T)

buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate....

same problem

, so had a look to draeger parts again, scruber and..... what about that used for a T-pieces http://www.tecme.de/frame_eq2.htm

a little bit expensive but it does exist no?

Yes and no.

For a T-piece you ideally want a separator down the middle so that water coming from the mouthpiece (due to diver error, etc) gets diverted into the bag...... This makes them hell to have made up as well.

caver95 · 3rd January 2006, 19:04

Quote: (Originally Posted by Genesis)

Yes and no.

For a T-piece you ideally want a separator down the middle so that water coming from the mouthpiece (due to diver error, etc) gets diverted into the bag...... This makes them hell to have made up as well.

the first megs came with machined t's that had the divider glued in place, so it wouldnt be that bad.

Genesis · 3rd January 2006, 19:10

That's one solution.... for low-volume it works ok. Injection-molding is the better option for volumes though, simply due to cost - the mold costs like the nuts to get made but then the parts are dirt cheap from there.

2nd January 2006, 22:23	#1 (permalink)
Genesis Bubbless Box of Death Current Rebreather/s: Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Home Build Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 1,395	ID of Optima breathing hoses? Anyone willing to take a ruler to 'em? Thanks in advance!
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2nd January 2006, 23:24	#2 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,127	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? Quote: (Originally Posted by Genesis) Anyone willing to take a ruler to 'em? Thanks in advance! I can tell you that the circumference around the outside is 6 inches. They are the spiral type hoses. So, one can't just cut them to a different size. Hope this helps. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
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3rd January 2006, 00:00	#3 (permalink)
Genesis Bubbless Box of Death Current Rebreather/s: Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Home Build Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 1,395	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? Naw, that's not where my interest lies.... (cutting them) If the ID at the cuffs is 1.75", then its the same as a number of other rebreathers and DSVs - I would hope they'd do that, but you never know.... If you then go over to DRE, you'll find that you can literallly buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate.... (This would mean no quick-disconnects, but that's not an impossible point of attack either, provided you're willing to pay to have the connector parts fabbed) Last edited by Genesis : 3rd January 2006 at 00:03.
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3rd January 2006, 07:02	#4 (permalink)
Marc T hell is in the details Current Rebreather/s: RB80 / Clone Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet RB80 / Clone Home Build Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: FRANCE Carcassonne Posts: 485	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate.... same problem , so had a look to draeger parts again, scruber and..... what about that used for a T-pieces http://www.tecme.de/frame_eq2.htm a little bit expensive but it does exist no?
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3rd January 2006, 14:04	#5 (permalink)
scubageek New Member Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: washington, dc. usa Posts: 7	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? There are two sizes on the long hose. On one end it is 1 3/8 inches and on the other end it is 1 1/4 inches The small hoses are 1 1/4 on both ends. Good luck
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3rd January 2006, 14:06	#6 (permalink)
Genesis Bubbless Box of Death Current Rebreather/s: Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Home Build Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 1,395	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? Thanks - not what I wanted to hear, but that's ok - it is what it is!
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3rd January 2006, 18:32	#7 (permalink)
Genesis Bubbless Box of Death Current Rebreather/s: Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Home Build Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 1,395	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? Quote: (Originally Posted by Marc T) buy everything for a loop EXCEPT the T-Pieces, DSV and cannister components online! For someone who intends to design around the ExtendAir cartridge this suddenly means that you have only a cannister (with lid, etc) and T-pieces left to fabricate.... same problem , so had a look to draeger parts again, scruber and..... what about that used for a T-pieces http://www.tecme.de/frame_eq2.htm a little bit expensive but it does exist no? Yes and no. For a T-piece you ideally want a separator down the middle so that water coming from the mouthpiece (due to diver error, etc) gets diverted into the bag...... This makes them hell to have made up as well.
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3rd January 2006, 19:04	#8 (permalink)
caver95 Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Not Bought Yet Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: US Posts: 170	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? Quote: (Originally Posted by Genesis) Yes and no. For a T-piece you ideally want a separator down the middle so that water coming from the mouthpiece (due to diver error, etc) gets diverted into the bag...... This makes them hell to have made up as well. the first megs came with machined t's that had the divider glued in place, so it wouldnt be that bad.
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3rd January 2006, 19:10	#9 (permalink)
Genesis Bubbless Box of Death Current Rebreather/s: Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Home Build Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sunny Florida Posts: 1,395	Re: ID of Optima breathing hoses? That's one solution.... for low-volume it works ok. Injection-molding is the better option for volumes though, simply due to cost - the mold costs like the nuts to get made but then the parts are dirt cheap from there.
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