Made to move to a new Optima

Explorer · 19th December 2005, 23:30

Quote: (Originally Posted by devo)

Did anyone try the Optima with AL bottles? Does anyone know how this affects needed weight for proper trim? I like the idea of AL, but am concerned that option will require excessive dive weight.

pm DIVEMIKE.

Damon · 20th December 2005, 09:30

Quote: (Originally Posted by diverklondike)

Team,

I have been using Duracell's in my Primary and Secondary without any problems... I have been changing them typically when ever I change cartridges... This ensures that you always have good batteries and it's a cheap insurance policy...

M

Is that the normal 1.5 volt alkali duracells?

***jradomski*** · 20th December 2005, 13:25

Quote: (Originally Posted by Damon)

Is that the normal 1.5 volt alkali duracells?

Yes alot of people use them.. If you change them at every scrubber change you wount run them dead..

Kevin's Testing shows at the highest maintainted current draw from the solenoid (something a diver coundn't do) would be to fire the solenoid for 5 seconds of every 6 seconds, the battery (a cheap bulk alkaline.. 5 cents on ebay each) lasts around 4.5 hours before it resets the controller, this is beyond all the rated scrubbers..

in reality the firing is going to be around 1-2 seconds out of every 6 second firing period for a swimming diver, about .5 sec per 6 second period while decoing (and none from 6m up if you run as an oxygen rebreather).. So you can see why alot of people change the batteries around 6 hours.. AFter each scubber gives more margin..
Some testing I have done making the unit maintain sp, I was getting around 12 hours.. so 50% of this is a good point in my estimation.. This allows for colder water, weaker batteries, and use of the backlight.

PCDiver · 20th December 2005, 14:17

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

Yes alot of people use them.. If you change them at every scrubber change you wount run them dead..

If you do multiple shorter dives, example 3 x 1 hour, you have to be a bit more careful. The HH is activated by wetcontact and depth sensor. The wetcontact is rather sensitive. So it is possible that the unit remains on for hours. If the loop content has a PO2 below the setpoint and you closed the O2 tank, the solenoid will fire continuously, draining the battery. The best way around this is to soak your handsets in clean water immediately after the dive and rub them dry with a towel. If you keep them dry, the handsets should switch off in a matter of minutes. If they don't, check the depth. It is possible, although very unlikely, that the depth sensor still registers pressure (blocked transducer hole).

There is no hard "turn off" method while the HH is in dive-mode, unless I missed something.

***jradomski*** · 20th December 2005, 19:47

Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver)

If you do multiple shorter dives, example 3 x 1 hour, you have to be a bit more careful. The HH is activated by wetcontact and depth sensor. The wetcontact is rather sensitive. So it is possible that the unit remains on for hours. If the loop content has a PO2 below the setpoint and you closed the O2 tank, the solenoid will fire continuously, draining the battery. The best way around this is to soak your handsets in clean water immediately after the dive and rub them dry with a towel. If you keep them dry, the handsets should switch off in a matter of minutes. If they don't, check the depth. It is possible, although very unlikely, that the depth sensor still registers pressure (blocked transducer hole).

There is no hard "turn off" method while the HH is in dive-mode, unless I missed something.

Many of us have been diving the unit for several years without any issues.. I definately do multiple dives a day.. Leaving the handsets on themself isn't that big a current draw its the firing of the solenoid (or the backlight).. Each one of these is 3 to 4 times the current draw of the handsets being "idle and on" make sure the loop is closed and put enough oxygen in the loop to be reasonable above your programmed setpoint so even if it activates the draw is minimal, or better yet switch it to OC mode, this will keep the backlight off and only fire if it senses a po2 of 0.19 or less..

Its usually enough to wipe the handsets down after a dive.. and keep it out of the salt spray if on a boat..

Keep the wet switches down do if water gets on them they will dry, I am guessing the metal handsets may be prone to a bit more condensation in some areas, put a dab of silicon around the wetswitch (not over it), this will further isolate the wetswitch from the surrounding area plus prevelt water from just rolling onto it..

to help prevent possible blockage of the pressure transducer, Keep the hole filled with silicon grease..

There is no way to hard turn off the unit when in dive mode.. the depth reading must be zero and the wetswitchs dry and then the unit will shut down. When on the surface you can use go to sleep but if either of the above conditions are present it wount work..

Damon · 22nd December 2005, 10:40

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

Some testing I have done making the unit maintain sp, I was getting around 12 hours.. so 50% of this is a good point in my estimation.. This allows for colder water, weaker batteries, and use of the backlight.

Thanks Joe,

In your testing, how many hours were you getting on the secondary with the Alkali batteries?

Cheers Damon

***jradomski*** · 22nd December 2005, 18:25

Quote: (Originally Posted by Damon)

Thanks Joe,

In your testing, how many hours were you getting on the secondary with the Alkali batteries?

Cheers Damon

on the older secondary about double - real life use (I still recommend changing the batteries frequrently as this IS your backup),
If I do the extreme (basically sensors disconnected) test it dies aound the same as the primary since, the backlight will be flashing continuously and the diva vibrator will be going off... but obviously under normal use these two dont get used that often..

I havent run tests on the new handsets, I expect it to be slightly shorter, but nothing to write home about..

Damon · 22nd December 2005, 20:56

Thanks Joe,

that is what we thought may be the case.

Cheers Damon

mikedive · 23rd December 2005, 00:14

Hey Mike,

Where are you going in Mexico???

I will be in Brazil for 40 days but I have a O2ptima class starting on Feb. 02 with one spot available. I live and teach in Playa del Carmen at www.protecdiving.com
Cheers,

Mike - Protec Training Facility

19th December 2005, 23:30	#21 (permalink)
Explorer I will teach you a..... Current Rebreather/s: Evolution Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 760	Re: Optima Weight Quote: (Originally Posted by devo) Did anyone try the Optima with AL bottles? Does anyone know how this affects needed weight for proper trim? I like the idea of AL, but am concerned that option will require excessive dive weight. pm DIVEMIKE. __________________ REALLY FRICKIN' TRAIN WRECKED..... Last edited by Explorer : 20th December 2005 at 10:42. Reason: Added pic
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20th December 2005, 09:30	#22 (permalink)
Damon bubbleless Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Evolution Sport Kiss Optima Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA Posts: 31	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by diverklondike) Team, I have been using Duracell's in my Primary and Secondary without any problems... I have been changing them typically when ever I change cartridges... This ensures that you always have good batteries and it's a cheap insurance policy... M Is that the normal 1.5 volt alkali duracells?
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20th December 2005, 13:25	#23 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,871	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by Damon) Is that the normal 1.5 volt alkali duracells? Yes alot of people use them.. If you change them at every scrubber change you wount run them dead.. Kevin's Testing shows at the highest maintainted current draw from the solenoid (something a diver coundn't do) would be to fire the solenoid for 5 seconds of every 6 seconds, the battery (a cheap bulk alkaline.. 5 cents on ebay each) lasts around 4.5 hours before it resets the controller, this is beyond all the rated scrubbers.. in reality the firing is going to be around 1-2 seconds out of every 6 second firing period for a swimming diver, about .5 sec per 6 second period while decoing (and none from 6m up if you run as an oxygen rebreather).. So you can see why alot of people change the batteries around 6 hours.. AFter each scubber gives more margin.. Some testing I have done making the unit maintain sp, I was getting around 12 hours.. so 50% of this is a good point in my estimation.. This allows for colder water, weaker batteries, and use of the backlight. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated. Last edited by jradomski : 20th December 2005 at 19:48.
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20th December 2005, 14:17	#24 (permalink)
PCDiver Submerge Productions Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 934	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) Yes alot of people use them.. If you change them at every scrubber change you wount run them dead.. If you do multiple shorter dives, example 3 x 1 hour, you have to be a bit more careful. The HH is activated by wetcontact and depth sensor. The wetcontact is rather sensitive. So it is possible that the unit remains on for hours. If the loop content has a PO2 below the setpoint and you closed the O2 tank, the solenoid will fire continuously, draining the battery. The best way around this is to soak your handsets in clean water immediately after the dive and rub them dry with a towel. If you keep them dry, the handsets should switch off in a matter of minutes. If they don't, check the depth. It is possible, although very unlikely, that the depth sensor still registers pressure (blocked transducer hole). There is no hard "turn off" method while the HH is in dive-mode, unless I missed something.
(Online)

20th December 2005, 19:47	#25 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,871	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver) If you do multiple shorter dives, example 3 x 1 hour, you have to be a bit more careful. The HH is activated by wetcontact and depth sensor. The wetcontact is rather sensitive. So it is possible that the unit remains on for hours. If the loop content has a PO2 below the setpoint and you closed the O2 tank, the solenoid will fire continuously, draining the battery. The best way around this is to soak your handsets in clean water immediately after the dive and rub them dry with a towel. If you keep them dry, the handsets should switch off in a matter of minutes. If they don't, check the depth. It is possible, although very unlikely, that the depth sensor still registers pressure (blocked transducer hole). There is no hard "turn off" method while the HH is in dive-mode, unless I missed something. Many of us have been diving the unit for several years without any issues.. I definately do multiple dives a day.. Leaving the handsets on themself isn't that big a current draw its the firing of the solenoid (or the backlight).. Each one of these is 3 to 4 times the current draw of the handsets being "idle and on" make sure the loop is closed and put enough oxygen in the loop to be reasonable above your programmed setpoint so even if it activates the draw is minimal, or better yet switch it to OC mode, this will keep the backlight off and only fire if it senses a po2 of 0.19 or less.. Its usually enough to wipe the handsets down after a dive.. and keep it out of the salt spray if on a boat.. Keep the wet switches down do if water gets on them they will dry, I am guessing the metal handsets may be prone to a bit more condensation in some areas, put a dab of silicon around the wetswitch (not over it), this will further isolate the wetswitch from the surrounding area plus prevelt water from just rolling onto it.. to help prevent possible blockage of the pressure transducer, Keep the hole filled with silicon grease.. There is no way to hard turn off the unit when in dive mode.. the depth reading must be zero and the wetswitchs dry and then the unit will shut down. When on the surface you can use go to sleep but if either of the above conditions are present it wount work.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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22nd December 2005, 10:40	#26 (permalink)
Damon bubbleless Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Evolution Sport Kiss Optima Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA Posts: 31	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) Some testing I have done making the unit maintain sp, I was getting around 12 hours.. so 50% of this is a good point in my estimation.. This allows for colder water, weaker batteries, and use of the backlight. Thanks Joe, In your testing, how many hours were you getting on the secondary with the Alkali batteries? Cheers Damon
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22nd December 2005, 18:25	#27 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,871	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Quote: (Originally Posted by Damon) Thanks Joe, In your testing, how many hours were you getting on the secondary with the Alkali batteries? Cheers Damon on the older secondary about double - real life use (I still recommend changing the batteries frequrently as this IS your backup), If I do the extreme (basically sensors disconnected) test it dies aound the same as the primary since, the backlight will be flashing continuously and the diva vibrator will be going off... but obviously under normal use these two dont get used that often.. I havent run tests on the new handsets, I expect it to be slightly shorter, but nothing to write home about.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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22nd December 2005, 20:56	#28 (permalink)
Damon bubbleless Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Evolution Sport Kiss Optima Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Dolphin Ray Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA Posts: 31	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Thanks Joe, that is what we thought may be the case. Cheers Damon
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23rd December 2005, 00:14	#29 (permalink)
mikedive Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Optima Other CCR Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: South Brazil, Texas and Mexico Posts: 322	Re: Made to move to a new Optima Hey Mike, Where are you going in Mexico??? I will be in Brazil for 40 days but I have a O2ptima class starting on Feb. 02 with one spot available. I live and teach in Playa del Carmen at www.protecdiving.com Cheers, Mike - Protec Training Facility
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