manual adition valves

BigBoB · 27th April 2008, 22:19

What tool do you use to remove the manual addition valves? I am going to replace the diluent side with a slide valve like the o2 side. It definately doesnt just twist off...maybe a plastic spanner wrench of some kind?

**sfldiver** · 28th April 2008, 12:11

There is a special tool that should be used to remove the manual addition valve. I've seen it at my local dive shop (Fill Express -- Nitrox & Technical Diving Specialist Serving Greater Fort Lauderdale - Dive Rite Express), but I don't think it is an item they had for sale.

One note: I would imagine that Dive Rite has intentionally placed a different type of valve on the diluent side, push vs. slide, to help ensure that divers did not accidentally hit the wrong button.

Consequently, I would seriously consider whether or not you want both valves to be the same, because I wouldn't want them to be the same.

zmcave · 28th April 2008, 12:44

Hi,

not sure if the flow characteristics of the slide valves are the same.
Does anyone know if they have different flows or not?

Best,
Zé.

***diverklondike*** · 28th April 2008, 18:15

Quote: (Originally Posted by sfldiver)

One note: I would imagine that Dive Rite has intentionally placed a different type of valve on the diluent side, push vs. slide, to help ensure that divers did not accidentally hit the wrong button.

Your correct it was done by design...

M

BigBoB · 28th April 2008, 21:02

I am new to this rebreather and understand that it was not designed this way.....that's the way it came from DR. However, it was also designed w/out a BOV, aliminum backplate/foot, 4th cell, FFM, etc. I have seen this configuration on another unit and I think it makes since for ease of running in manual. Does anyone know the name/where I can get the tool?

**sfldiver** · 28th April 2008, 21:16

Quote: (Originally Posted by BigBoB)

I am new to this rebreather and understand that it was not designed this way.....that's the way it came from DR. However, it was also designed w/out a BOV, aliminum backplate/foot, 4th cell, FFM, etc. I have seen this configuration on another unit and I think it makes since for ease of running in manual. Does anyone know the name/where I can get the tool?

No, but Charles at Fill Express/Diverite Express (Fill Express -- Nitrox & Technical Diving Specialist Serving Greater Fort Lauderdale) (Dive Rite Express) had one and used it on my counterlungs to loosen/tighten those valves.

I would probably call/email Tony at Fill Express/Diverite Express and see if that is an item they stock/sell.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 28th April 2008, 21:29

The addition valve screws into a receiver end inside of the counterlung. It is screwed on tightly to prevent gas leaking from around it. However, it can simply be unscrewed if you can grip it properly. You must make sure to grip the base that is resting against the counterlung, not the part of the valve that will just spin when you turn it.

There is a specific tool made for doing this. However, I have used a rubber band clamped wrech tool on my drysuit exhaust valve when I have had to change it, and this worked without a problem. This should also work for the addtion valves though I have not personally tried it.

Should you elect to change the valve yourself, you must make sure to tighten properly after. Make sure to conduct leak testing after.

I, too have elected to switch the diluent addition to a slider valve. Since I enjoy cave diving and passing through restrictions, I prefer a slider to a depression button valve. This will minimize the chance of adding diluent to my loop when passing through the tight spaces.

Just because I have elected to do this does not mean that it is the right thing for you to do. You absolutely must have your skills for proper gas addition to a point where you will not make a mistake by adding the wrong gas to your loop in a critical situation.

Jerry · 3rd May 2008, 19:33

Quote: (Originally Posted by BigBoB)

What tool do you use to remove the manual addition valves? I am going to replace the diluent side with a slide valve like the o2 side. It definately doesnt just twist off...maybe a plastic spanner wrench of some kind?

The valves are different by design. This is so the diver can differentiate them by touch. The diluent valve has the center push so that if you do hit one either in a hurry for gas or by accident you won't spike your PO2. If you need gas in a hurry the diluent is quick and easy to hit..

It is noteworthy to mention this design predated the ADV; none the less it is still a good idea. I cave dive mine, almost exclusively; in caves probably smaller than I should and have never accidentally depressed the dil valve.

Jerry

27th April 2008, 22:19	#1 (permalink)
BigBoB My name aint Bob its Matt Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Jax, FL Posts: 10	manual adition valves What tool do you use to remove the manual addition valves? I am going to replace the diluent side with a slide valve like the o2 side. It definately doesnt just twist off...maybe a plastic spanner wrench of some kind? __________________ Stupid People Kill Smart People
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28th April 2008, 12:11	#2 (permalink)
sfldiver Team Optima Diver Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Pompano Beach, FL Posts: 665	Re: manual adition valves There is a special tool that should be used to remove the manual addition valve. I've seen it at my local dive shop (Fill Express -- Nitrox & Technical Diving Specialist Serving Greater Fort Lauderdale - Dive Rite Express), but I don't think it is an item they had for sale. One note: I would imagine that Dive Rite has intentionally placed a different type of valve on the diluent side, push vs. slide, to help ensure that divers did not accidentally hit the wrong button. Consequently, I would seriously consider whether or not you want both valves to be the same, because I wouldn't want them to be the same. __________________ *Currently piloting & shooting...* Dive Rite O2ptima FX Rigged w/ a Dsix Custom Aluminum Frame, Nomad Wing, Transpac Harness and VR3 Computer w/ VPM-B/E & a 4th Cell Sensor Link.* Canon PowerShot G9 Digital Camera *Rigged in a Patima-PDCH 2008 G9 Aluminum Housing w/ an Inon UWL-100 Achromat Wide Conversion Lens, 2 Inon UCL-165M67 Close-Up Lenses and 2 Inon Z-240 Strobes.
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28th April 2008, 12:44	#3 (permalink)
zmcave www.rebreather.com.br Current Rebreather/s: Optima Dolphin Other Rebreather/s: Optima Dolphin Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Brazil Posts: 176	Re: manual adition valves Hi, not sure if the flow characteristics of the slide valves are the same. Does anyone know if they have different flows or not? Best, Zé.
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28th April 2008, 18:15	#4 (permalink)
*diverklondike* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other CCR Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Delaware, USA Posts: 1,463	Re: manual adition valves Quote: (Originally Posted by sfldiver) One note: I would imagine that Dive Rite has intentionally placed a different type of valve on the diluent side, push vs. slide, to help ensure that divers did not accidentally hit the wrong button. Your correct it was done by design... M
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28th April 2008, 21:02	#5 (permalink)
BigBoB My name aint Bob its Matt Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Jax, FL Posts: 10	Re: manual adition valves I am new to this rebreather and understand that it was not designed this way.....that's the way it came from DR. However, it was also designed w/out a BOV, aliminum backplate/foot, 4th cell, FFM, etc. I have seen this configuration on another unit and I think it makes since for ease of running in manual. Does anyone know the name/where I can get the tool? __________________ Stupid People Kill Smart People Last edited by BigBoB : 28th April 2008 at 21:08.
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28th April 2008, 21:16	#6 (permalink)
sfldiver Team Optima Diver Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Pompano Beach, FL Posts: 665	Re: manual adition valves Quote: (Originally Posted by BigBoB) I am new to this rebreather and understand that it was not designed this way.....that's the way it came from DR. However, it was also designed w/out a BOV, aliminum backplate/foot, 4th cell, FFM, etc. I have seen this configuration on another unit and I think it makes since for ease of running in manual. Does anyone know the name/where I can get the tool? No, but Charles at Fill Express/Diverite Express (Fill Express -- Nitrox & Technical Diving Specialist Serving Greater Fort Lauderdale) (Dive Rite Express) had one and used it on my counterlungs to loosen/tighten those valves. I would probably call/email Tony at Fill Express/Diverite Express and see if that is an item they stock/sell. __________________ *Currently piloting & shooting...* Dive Rite O2ptima FX Rigged w/ a Dsix Custom Aluminum Frame, Nomad Wing, Transpac Harness and VR3 Computer w/ VPM-B/E & a 4th Cell Sensor Link.* Canon PowerShot G9 Digital Camera *Rigged in a Patima-PDCH 2008 G9 Aluminum Housing w/ an Inon UWL-100 Achromat Wide Conversion Lens, 2 Inon UCL-165M67 Close-Up Lenses and 2 Inon Z-240 Strobes.
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28th April 2008, 21:29	#7 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 1,939	Re: manual adition valves The addition valve screws into a receiver end inside of the counterlung. It is screwed on tightly to prevent gas leaking from around it. However, it can simply be unscrewed if you can grip it properly. You must make sure to grip the base that is resting against the counterlung, not the part of the valve that will just spin when you turn it. There is a specific tool made for doing this. However, I have used a rubber band clamped wrech tool on my drysuit exhaust valve when I have had to change it, and this worked without a problem. This should also work for the addtion valves though I have not personally tried it. Should you elect to change the valve yourself, you must make sure to tighten properly after. Make sure to conduct leak testing after. I, too have elected to switch the diluent addition to a slider valve. Since I enjoy cave diving and passing through restrictions, I prefer a slider to a depression button valve. This will minimize the chance of adding diluent to my loop when passing through the tight spaces. Just because I have elected to do this does not mean that it is the right thing for you to do. You absolutely must have your skills for proper gas addition to a point where you will not make a mistake by adding the wrong gas to your loop in a critical situation. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com Last edited by ScubaDadMiami : 28th April 2008 at 21:31.
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3rd May 2008, 19:33	#8 (permalink)
Jerry New Member Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: USA Posts: 23	Re: manual adition valves Quote: (Originally Posted by BigBoB) What tool do you use to remove the manual addition valves? I am going to replace the diluent side with a slide valve like the o2 side. It definately doesnt just twist off...maybe a plastic spanner wrench of some kind? The valves are different by design. This is so the diver can differentiate them by touch. The diluent valve has the center push so that if you do hit one either in a hurry for gas or by accident you won't spike your PO2. If you need gas in a hurry the diluent is quick and easy to hit.. It is noteworthy to mention this design predated the ADV; none the less it is still a good idea. I cave dive mine, almost exclusively; in caves probably smaller than I should and have never accidentally depressed the dil valve. Jerry
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