O2ptima Hammerhead/s Batteries

kev

Hi, as a relatively new Optima diver I'm asking for info on what batteries most use ? So far I've used the recommended 3.6v TL5903 Tadiran however one of these failed on a dive after giving an ok reading before the dive.
My dives can be a few weeks apart so if they behave anything like underwater torches which always need batt changes even if only used about once.
How about the 1.5v batts ? Has anyone made much use of these ? Reason being, here they are more readily available and I can buy about 6 (1.5's) for 2 3.6's which I've got to order in ! Not a biggy as in price but the convenience of it.
Kev

diverreb

I use the standard 1.5v Alkaline batteries. As long as they show a 1.4v or better on the battery indicator they've worked fine for me.

I change them daily. They primary will only last for one day, but the secondary should go for two days as it's not driving the solenoid. But they are so cheap, I change them both.

Don't forget to clean the battery contacts & springs on a regular basis.....

Richie

diverklondike

Ditto....

zmcave

Hi Kev,

I used regular 1.5v batteries for a long time and it works fine for single days of diving, change them whenever you change the extendair.
Lately, I have been using SAFT batteries just because I have been diving about 8 hours/week and 3.6v batteries are just more practical. If I have a less busy schedule I will go back to the 1.5v.
Best,

Zé.

sfldiver

Kev, I've tried all different types of batteries, from the 3.6V Safts ($5.50 US each) to the Eveready 1.5V Lithiums ($2.50 US each) to the Duracel 1.5V Alkalines ($.50 US each).

I'VE HAD THEM ALL FAIL ON ME WHILE DIVING!

The porblem is that the Hammerhead Handsets built in volt meter doesn't measure current, so you'll never know if the battery has enough current to fire the selanoid at any given point in time.

Fortunately, I have a VR3 with the 4th cell, so when my handsets shut down, as they did last week in the Keys in the middle of my deco hang during my second dive, I can rely on my VR3, which is generally more conservative. I currently considering activating my second handsets deco, to ensure that I have double redundancy during longer deco dives.

I'm actually pretty frustrated with the whole battery thing and my handsets shutting down from time to time. I've become obsessive about ensuring that I have fresh batteries in my handsets. Fortunately, I buy Duracels in bulk and they only cost $.50 US, so if I play with my hadsets too much, like when I'm setting up my unit and it takes longer than usual, I just dump the battery and replace it with a new one, So I'm constantantly putting my handsets to sleep so it won't drain the battery.

On a previous thread, Kevin Jurgensen suggested using 1.5V Alkalines and switching them every day of diving, which is what I do. However, if I anticipate doing more than 3 to 4 hours of diving in a day, I use the Safts, which are more expensive, but do generally last longer; however, even with the Safts, I still don't know when to change them, so I do it daily as well, if I've done more than 4 hours of diving.

Good luck!

__________________
Currently piloting & shooting...
Dive Rite O2ptima FX
*Rigged w/ a Dsix Custom Aluminum Frame, Nomad Wing, Transpac Harness and VR3 Computer w/ VPM-B/E & a 4th Cell Sensor Link.
Canon PowerShot G9 Digital Camera
*Rigged in a Patima-PDCH 2008 G9 Aluminum Housing w/ an Inon UWL-100 Achromat Wide Conversion Lens, 2 Inon UCL-165M67 Close-Up Lenses and 2 Inon Z-240 Strobes.

jradomski

What are you calling an OK reading?? - Watch the reading with the back light activated.. (hit the right button a few times to keep it on), and try a get the solenoid to fire as well.. the voltage with it idle will be higher than it under work.. the bat voltage reading is the current voltage reading, you need to watch it under higher load situations..

are you leaving them in between dives in this long period or are you removing them (the handsets will continually draw current, since they are never really off, just in a low power mode - less than 3 weeks will kill a 1.5v aa).. I'm not sure what voltage is ok on the tadiran batteries.. but with saft cells once they are hitting 2.9v more than just once in a while they need to be changed.. You can set the alarm to 3.0v if bat is showing more than just occasionally then its time to replace.. (I usually set my alarm at 2.8v so that I can see the actual voltage) using the backlight and the solenoid firing will intermittently trigger this but the voltage should come back quickly.. if it doesnt then its time to change..

If I see 3.0v without the b/l on I know the batteries should be changed..


I would aslo suggest you check the date on the cells.. if the place you are buying them from doesnt sell alot, you could have old cells..

I always use lithium cells in cold water or if I am doing lots of conseqitive diving (I have been getting over 30 hours of actual dive time on saft ls14500 cells, before changing them).. In warm water or for an occasional dive I will use 1.5v cells..

if you play with the handsets alot and activate the bl it will significantly decrease the battery life (the backlight draws alot of current).. its much better to shine a light on the handset to see the readings than activate the b/l unnecessarily.. keep the b/l duration short..

__________________
Joe Radomski
CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer
ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10

All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.

jiseson

seems like a nice product



ZTS Multi-Battery Tester™ (MBT-1)

__________________
Jonathan D Iseson

diverklondike

Joe,

Since you are our local Electronics Guru... Can you comment??? Looks like a cool tool.... If it worked well I would get one...

M

jiseson

yes looking for Joe's comment

__________________
Jonathan D Iseson

ScubaDadMiami

I would also be interested in such a product.

__________________
Howard Packer
IANTD CCR Instructor
Miami Beach, Florida
CCRDiveTraining.com