O2ptima Hammerhead/s Batteries

***jradomski*** · 28th April 2008, 22:31

Quote: (Originally Posted by diverklondike)

Joe,

Since you are our local Electronics Guru... Can you comment??? Looks like a cool tool.... If it worked well I would get one...

M

Its certainly going to be better than a cheapo battery tester, but until we know wha the "pulse load" it puts on for specific batteries, I really cant say how good its going to be..

remember we need about 850ma pulses for a 1.5v battery and about half that for a 3.6v cell..

These are not what most people would consider normal drain for those type of batteries..

amberjack · 29th April 2008, 00:04

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

Its certainly going to be better than a cheapo battery tester, but until we know wha the "pulse load" it puts on for specific batteries, I really cant say how good its going to be..

remember we need about .850ma pulses for a 1.5v battery and about half that for a 3.6v cell..

These are not what most people would consider normal drain for those type of batteries..

Can you clarify? Are you saying .850 ma, as in 850 microamps, or .85 amps, as in 850 milliamps? Sounds like the latter, which indeed is a heck of a draw for a 1.5v battery, even if it's pulsed.
cheers

***jradomski*** · 29th April 2008, 01:13

Quote: (Originally Posted by amberjack)

Can you clarify? Are you saying .850 ma, as in 850 microamps, or .85 amps, as in 850 milliamps? Sounds like the latter, which indeed is a heck of a draw for a 1.5v battery, even if it's pulsed.
cheers

type.. removed the "." its 850 ma.. This is a short duration pulse, but is unavoidable since the voltage has to be pumped up to operate the solenoid and backlight.. the "power" used is nnot great put due to the low voltage the current is.. The solenoid requires 600mw (6v at 100ma), so if the battery is down to 1v then you need 600ma+ at 1v to meet the power requirements (there isnt 100% efficiency so its a bit higher.. probably 80-85% efficient) so probably more like 750ma for solenoid only! I would be replacing a 1.5v cell at 1.2v, since the AA cant reliably deliever that much current at that voltage..

Tony_Q · 30th April 2008, 00:00

Hi Joe,

Would it be valid if I built my own battery load tester. Using P=V*V/R, If P=.85w, V=1.2v, a resistance load of 1.7ohm (1w resister rating) is required.

If I pulsed the battery and voltage remained at or above 1.2v on a multimeter the battery should be good to drive the Hammerhead?

This would be a trivial kit to make up and cost only a couple of dollars for parts.

Regards,
Tony

***jradomski*** · 30th April 2008, 03:34

Quote: (Originally Posted by Tony_Q)

Hi Joe,

Would it be valid if I built my own battery load tester. Using P=V*V/R, If P=.85w, V=1.2v, a resistance load of 1.7ohm (1w resister rating) is required.

If I pulsed the battery and voltage remained at or above 1.2v on a multimeter the battery should be good to drive the Hammerhead?

This would be a trivial kit to make up and cost only a couple of dollars for parts.

Regards,
Tony

depending on how fast the battery responds you may not see any voltage dips.. if the battery breaks 1.0v the HH will reset.. if it can take a 3 second pulse and stay above 1.2, I would say its a good cell.. this high pulse should be carried on about a 50ma steady state current..

example 50ma -> 850ma -> 50ma

as the voltage drops the current goes up.. I would not start a dive with a cell thats steady state voltage is not around 1.4v..

This at least tells you that at the temp you tested the battery at its good.. If there is a significant temperature drop, the batteries capacity drops significantly as well..

If underwater I saw the battery at 1.2 (steady state - especially with a dip when the solenoid enguages), as a precaution I would take steps to insure that the solenoid doesnt want to fire (make sure the loop o2 is above setpoint) while I have the backlight engaged.. This will prevent the most common cause of a reset.. near the end of life the cell can either handle the solenoid OR the backlight but not both...

Tony_Q · 1st May 2008, 01:20

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the response.

One more little diving related project to work on.

Tony

jaap · 19th May 2008, 18:14

Hi

I'm only using the HH since this winter so I haven't followed the older threads extremely carefully. Anyway I have a few questions I couldn't find much about on here, in the manual or from my instructor (he used to use an older HH-version).

I used 1.5 V alkaline (Duracell and others) this winter but got really tired of the constant 1.2 V Bat-warn and occasional shutdowns (winter, 4 Celsius or colder) even on a new alkaline. So I ordered a bunch of Saft LST 14500, no problems since

.

Is the Saft LST 14500 a recomended battery and/or is the Saft LS 14500 a better choice (for rev C handsets)?

Its a little confusing since Dive Rite Express sells the LST 14500 for the HH:
Lithium Batteries for Rebreathers

But the HH-manual (Rev 2.01) does not list the LST 14500 in the battery guide section on p 5 (p 8 according to the pdf-reader).

My understanding is that the LST 14500 is designed for lower loads (less mA draw) than the LS 14500?

So is the LS 14500 a significantly better choice or are they both OK?

Is there any kind of relationship between displayed voltage for a new cell and how many service hours it will give?

Or is it a bit like with O2 cells, no one knows how a particular cell will evolve.

I noticed that some of the LST 14500 batteries started a little low at 3.2 or 3.4 V fresh out of the box, but so far after up to 10-11h dive time on "low start voltage"-cells none has dipped under 3.0 more than momentarily when fiddling with the handsets outdoors in the cold. I dive a HammerKiss so the solenoid basically never fires, I limit the use of B/L and take the batteries out after the final dive of the day. This brings up the next question.

Can the batteries be stored with reversed polarity inside the handset? I suspect the answer is no...

Since storing the batteries separately makes for another thing to forget and increases the risk of mixing them up (yes I do mark them) it would be nice if one could store them in the handset without (probably not the case) any power consumption.

Being a bit of a chicken hearing & seeing reboot events now and then I don't feel like running both handsets on batteries with 10+ hours time on them. So I decided to put a new one in the primary once the oldest gets to ~10h and move the new old one to the secondary (oldest battery gets ~10h when the new reaches ~5h). Perhaps its overly conservative (plus bat-warn at 3.0 V)? Have not run any battery over 11 h so far and have only used 4-5 of the 3.6 V Safts yet so I don't have any idea how long they could last.

How do others judge Saft LST 14500 battery life in rev C handsets? Use the Bat-warn or change by a set interval? Info from "cold water & limited solenoid" use divers would be extra nice

With 1.5 V alkalines I would not mind tossing and putting in new ones all the time but since the 3.6 V Saft are sort of hard to find and ridiculously expensive here in Stockholm (~22 $) its a bit of a project to buy them online and keep a good stock.

Puuh, better finish now...the set of questions sort of grew once I started typing

***jradomski*** · 19th May 2008, 18:47

Quote: (Originally Posted by jaap)

Hi

I'm only using the HH since this winter so I haven't followed the older threads extremely carefully. Anyway I have a few questions I couldn't find much about on here, in the manual or from my instructor (he used to use an older HH-version).

I used 1.5 V alkaline (Duracell and others) this winter but got really tired of the constant 1.2 V Bat-warn and occasional shutdowns (winter, 4 Celsius or colder) even on a new alkaline. So I ordered a bunch of Saft LST 14500, no problems since

.

Is the Saft LST 14500 a recomended battery and/or is the Saft LS 14500 a better choice (for rev C handsets)?

Its a little confusing since Dive Rite Express sells the LST 14500 for the HH:
Lithium Batteries for Rebreathers

But the HH-manual (Rev 2.01) does not list the LST 14500 in the battery guide section on p 5 (p 8 according to the pdf-reader).

My understanding is that the LST 14500 is designed for lower loads (less mA draw) than the LS 14500?

So is the LS 14500 a significantly better choice or are they both OK?

Is there any kind of relationship between displayed voltage for a new cell and how many service hours it will give?

Or is it a bit like with O2 cells, no one knows how a particular cell will evolve.

I noticed that some of the LST 14500 batteries started a little low at 3.2 or 3.4 V fresh out of the box, but so far after up to 10-11h dive time on "low start voltage"-cells none has dipped under 3.0 more than momentarily when fiddling with the handsets outdoors in the cold. I dive a HammerKiss so the solenoid basically never fires, I limit the use of B/L and take the batteries out after the final dive of the day. This brings up the next question.

Can the batteries be stored with reversed polarity inside the handset? I suspect the answer is no...

Since storing the batteries separately makes for another thing to forget and increases the risk of mixing them up (yes I do mark them) it would be nice if one could store them in the handset without (probably not the case) any power consumption.

Being a bit of a chicken hearing & seeing reboot events now and then I don't feel like running both handsets on batteries with 10+ hours time on them. So I decided to put a new one in the primary once the oldest gets to ~10h and move the new old one to the secondary (oldest battery gets ~10h when the new reaches ~5h). Perhaps its overly conservative (plus bat-warn at 3.0 V)? Have not run any battery over 11 h so far and have only used 4-5 of the 3.6 V Safts yet so I don't have any idea how long they could last.

How do others judge Saft LST 14500 battery life in rev C handsets? Use the Bat-warn or change by a set interval? Info from "cold water & limited solenoid" use divers would be extra nice

With 1.5 V alkalines I would not mind tossing and putting in new ones all the time but since the 3.6 V Saft are sort of hard to find and ridiculously expensive here in Stockholm (~22 $) its a bit of a project to buy them online and keep a good stock.

Puuh, better finish now...the set of questions sort of grew once I started typing

ls versions are a much better choice than lst versions.. at all costs stay away from the ls14500C (notice the c at the end)

There is another thread discussing when Its probably best to change the cells.. short summary set the alarm monitor on 3v, an occasional batt alarm is ok (probably backlight + solenoid, voltage probably dropping to 2.9ish), and should recover quickly.. when the alarm becomes more than just occasional.. change the cells..

for someone doing 100% automatic, I would expect 20hrs plus of dive time.. last set I tracked (mix of manual and automatic) I had about 40 hours..

jaap · 19th May 2008, 19:30

Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski)

ls versions are a much better choice than lst versions.. at all costs stay away from the ls14500C (notice the c at the end)

There is another thread discussing when Its probably best to change the cells.. short summary set the alarm monitor on 3v, an occasional batt alarm is ok (probably backlight + solenoid, voltage probably dropping to 2.9ish), and should recover quickly.. when the alarm becomes more than just occasional.. change the cells..

for someone doing 100% automatic, I would expect 20hrs plus of dive time.. last set I tracked (mix of manual and automatic) I had about 40 hours..

Thanks! Green sent. Bought a set of 20 LST 14500 thinking it was the best, since listed for HH on DiveRiteExpress.

***jradomski*** · 20th May 2008, 05:30

Quote: (Originally Posted by jaap)

Thanks! Green sent. Bought a set of 20 LST 14500 thinking it was the best, since listed for HH on DiveRiteExpress.

The LS cells ill have about a 50% greater capacity at a 50ma constant discharge as compared to lst cells..

The LS has a continuous current rating of 130ma for 50% of capacity as opposed to 45ma for the LST cells..

Also the LS cells have a SS battery casing, this has supposedly been added to the newer LST cells..

28th April 2008, 22:31	#11 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,998	Re: battery current checker Quote: (Originally Posted by diverklondike) Joe, Since you are our local Electronics Guru... Can you comment??? Looks like a cool tool.... If it worked well I would get one... M Its certainly going to be better than a cheapo battery tester, but until we know wha the "pulse load" it puts on for specific batteries, I really cant say how good its going to be.. remember we need about 850ma pulses for a 1.5v battery and about half that for a 3.6v cell.. These are not what most people would consider normal drain for those type of batteries.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated. Last edited by jradomski : 29th April 2008 at 01:08.
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29th April 2008, 00:04	#12 (permalink)
amberjack New Member Current Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 8	Re: battery current checker Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) Its certainly going to be better than a cheapo battery tester, but until we know wha the "pulse load" it puts on for specific batteries, I really cant say how good its going to be.. remember we need about .850ma pulses for a 1.5v battery and about half that for a 3.6v cell.. These are not what most people would consider normal drain for those type of batteries.. Can you clarify? Are you saying .850 ma, as in 850 microamps, or .85 amps, as in 850 milliamps? Sounds like the latter, which indeed is a heck of a draw for a 1.5v battery, even if it's pulsed. cheers
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29th April 2008, 01:13	#13 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,998	Re: battery current checker Quote: (Originally Posted by amberjack) Can you clarify? Are you saying .850 ma, as in 850 microamps, or .85 amps, as in 850 milliamps? Sounds like the latter, which indeed is a heck of a draw for a 1.5v battery, even if it's pulsed. cheers type.. removed the "." its 850 ma.. This is a short duration pulse, but is unavoidable since the voltage has to be pumped up to operate the solenoid and backlight.. the "power" used is nnot great put due to the low voltage the current is.. The solenoid requires 600mw (6v at 100ma), so if the battery is down to 1v then you need 600ma+ at 1v to meet the power requirements (there isnt 100% efficiency so its a bit higher.. probably 80-85% efficient) so probably more like 750ma for solenoid only! I would be replacing a 1.5v cell at 1.2v, since the AA cant reliably deliever that much current at that voltage.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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30th April 2008, 00:00	#14 (permalink)
Tony_Q New Member Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: May 2005 Location: Australia Posts: 58	Re: O2ptima Hammerhead/s Batteries Hi Joe, Would it be valid if I built my own battery load tester. Using P=V*V/R, If P=.85w, V=1.2v, a resistance load of 1.7ohm (1w resister rating) is required. If I pulsed the battery and voltage remained at or above 1.2v on a multimeter the battery should be good to drive the Hammerhead? This would be a trivial kit to make up and cost only a couple of dollars for parts. Regards, Tony
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30th April 2008, 03:34	#15 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,998	Re: O2ptima Hammerhead/s Batteries Quote: (Originally Posted by Tony_Q) Hi Joe, Would it be valid if I built my own battery load tester. Using P=VV/R, If P=.85w, V=1.2v, a resistance load of 1.7ohm (1w resister rating) is required. If I pulsed the battery and voltage remained at or above 1.2v on a multimeter the battery should be good to drive the Hammerhead? This would be a trivial kit to make up and cost only a couple of dollars for parts. Regards, Tony depending on how fast the battery responds you may not see any voltage dips.. if the battery breaks 1.0v the HH will reset.. if it can take a 3 second pulse and stay above 1.2, I would say its a good cell.. this high pulse should be carried on about a 50ma steady state current.. example 50ma -> 850ma -> 50ma as the voltage drops the current goes up.. I would not start a dive with a cell thats steady state voltage is not around 1.4v.. This at least tells you that at the temp you tested the battery at its good.. If there is a significant temperature drop, the batteries capacity drops significantly as well.. If underwater I saw the battery at 1.2 (steady state - especially with a dip when the solenoid enguages), as a precaution I would take steps to insure that the solenoid doesnt want to fire (make sure the loop o2 is above setpoint) while I have the backlight engaged.. This will prevent the most common cause of a reset.. near the end of life the cell can either handle the solenoid OR the backlight but not both... __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI* Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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1st May 2008, 01:20	#16 (permalink)
Tony_Q New Member Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: May 2005 Location: Australia Posts: 58	Re: O2ptima Hammerhead/s Batteries Hi Joe, Thanks for the response. One more little diving related project to work on. Tony
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19th May 2008, 18:14	#17 (permalink)
jaap Normal people worry me Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other CCR RB80 / Clone Ray Other SCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR RB80 / Clone Ray Other SCR Home Build Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Stockholm Sweden Posts: 451	Some more battery questions Hi I'm only using the HH since this winter so I haven't followed the older threads extremely carefully. Anyway I have a few questions I couldn't find much about on here, in the manual or from my instructor (he used to use an older HH-version). I used 1.5 V alkaline (Duracell and others) this winter but got really tired of the constant 1.2 V Bat-warn and occasional shutdowns (winter, 4 Celsius or colder) even on a new alkaline. So I ordered a bunch of Saft LST 14500, no problems since . Is the Saft LST 14500 a recomended battery and/or is the Saft LS 14500 a better choice (for rev C handsets)? Its a little confusing since Dive Rite Express sells the LST 14500 for the HH: Lithium Batteries for Rebreathers But the HH-manual (Rev 2.01) does not list the LST 14500 in the battery guide section on p 5 (p 8 according to the pdf-reader). My understanding is that the LST 14500 is designed for lower loads (less mA draw) than the LS 14500? So is the LS 14500 a significantly better choice or are they both OK? Is there any kind of relationship between displayed voltage for a new cell and how many service hours it will give? Or is it a bit like with O2 cells, no one knows how a particular cell will evolve. I noticed that some of the LST 14500 batteries started a little low at 3.2 or 3.4 V fresh out of the box, but so far after up to 10-11h dive time on "low start voltage"-cells none has dipped under 3.0 more than momentarily when fiddling with the handsets outdoors in the cold. I dive a HammerKiss so the solenoid basically never fires, I limit the use of B/L and take the batteries out after the final dive of the day. This brings up the next question. Can the batteries be stored with reversed polarity inside the handset? I suspect the answer is no... Since storing the batteries separately makes for another thing to forget and increases the risk of mixing them up (yes I do mark them) it would be nice if one could store them in the handset without (probably not the case) any power consumption. Being a bit of a chicken hearing & seeing reboot events now and then I don't feel like running both handsets on batteries with 10+ hours time on them. So I decided to put a new one in the primary once the oldest gets to ~10h and move the new old one to the secondary (oldest battery gets ~10h when the new reaches ~5h). Perhaps its overly conservative (plus bat-warn at 3.0 V)? Have not run any battery over 11 h so far and have only used 4-5 of the 3.6 V Safts yet so I don't have any idea how long they could last. How do others judge Saft LST 14500 battery life in rev C handsets? Use the Bat-warn or change by a set interval? Info from "cold water & limited solenoid" use divers would be extra nice With 1.5 V alkalines I would not mind tossing and putting in new ones all the time but since the 3.6 V Saft are sort of hard to find and ridiculously expensive here in Stockholm (~22 $) its a bit of a project to buy them online and keep a good stock. Puuh, better finish now...the set of questions sort of grew once I started typing __________________ My initials: JAAP
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19th May 2008, 18:47	#18 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,998	Re: Some more battery questions Quote: (Originally Posted by jaap) Hi I'm only using the HH since this winter so I haven't followed the older threads extremely carefully. Anyway I have a few questions I couldn't find much about on here, in the manual or from my instructor (he used to use an older HH-version). I used 1.5 V alkaline (Duracell and others) this winter but got really tired of the constant 1.2 V Bat-warn and occasional shutdowns (winter, 4 Celsius or colder) even on a new alkaline. So I ordered a bunch of Saft LST 14500, no problems since . Is the Saft LST 14500 a recomended battery and/or is the Saft LS 14500 a better choice (for rev C handsets)? Its a little confusing since Dive Rite Express sells the LST 14500 for the HH: Lithium Batteries for Rebreathers But the HH-manual (Rev 2.01) does not list the LST 14500 in the battery guide section on p 5 (p 8 according to the pdf-reader). My understanding is that the LST 14500 is designed for lower loads (less mA draw) than the LS 14500? So is the LS 14500 a significantly better choice or are they both OK? Is there any kind of relationship between displayed voltage for a new cell and how many service hours it will give? Or is it a bit like with O2 cells, no one knows how a particular cell will evolve. I noticed that some of the LST 14500 batteries started a little low at 3.2 or 3.4 V fresh out of the box, but so far after up to 10-11h dive time on "low start voltage"-cells none has dipped under 3.0 more than momentarily when fiddling with the handsets outdoors in the cold. I dive a HammerKiss so the solenoid basically never fires, I limit the use of B/L and take the batteries out after the final dive of the day. This brings up the next question. Can the batteries be stored with reversed polarity inside the handset? I suspect the answer is no... Since storing the batteries separately makes for another thing to forget and increases the risk of mixing them up (yes I do mark them) it would be nice if one could store them in the handset without (probably not the case) any power consumption. Being a bit of a chicken hearing & seeing reboot events now and then I don't feel like running both handsets on batteries with 10+ hours time on them. So I decided to put a new one in the primary once the oldest gets to ~10h and move the new old one to the secondary (oldest battery gets ~10h when the new reaches ~5h). Perhaps its overly conservative (plus bat-warn at 3.0 V)? Have not run any battery over 11 h so far and have only used 4-5 of the 3.6 V Safts yet so I don't have any idea how long they could last. How do others judge Saft LST 14500 battery life in rev C handsets? Use the Bat-warn or change by a set interval? Info from "cold water & limited solenoid" use divers would be extra nice With 1.5 V alkalines I would not mind tossing and putting in new ones all the time but since the 3.6 V Saft are sort of hard to find and ridiculously expensive here in Stockholm (~22 $) its a bit of a project to buy them online and keep a good stock. Puuh, better finish now...the set of questions sort of grew once I started typing ls versions are a much better choice than lst versions.. at all costs stay away from the ls14500C (notice the c at the end) There is another thread discussing when Its probably best to change the cells.. short summary set the alarm monitor on 3v, an occasional batt alarm is ok (probably backlight + solenoid, voltage probably dropping to 2.9ish), and should recover quickly.. when the alarm becomes more than just occasional.. change the cells.. for someone doing 100% automatic, I would expect 20hrs plus of dive time.. last set I tracked (mix of manual and automatic) I had about 40 hours.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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19th May 2008, 19:30	#19 (permalink)
jaap Normal people worry me Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other CCR RB80 / Clone Ray Other SCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR RB80 / Clone Ray Other SCR Home Build Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Stockholm Sweden Posts: 451	Re: Some more battery questions Quote: (Originally Posted by jradomski) ls versions are a much better choice than lst versions.. at all costs stay away from the ls14500C (notice the c at the end) There is another thread discussing when Its probably best to change the cells.. short summary set the alarm monitor on 3v, an occasional batt alarm is ok (probably backlight + solenoid, voltage probably dropping to 2.9ish), and should recover quickly.. when the alarm becomes more than just occasional.. change the cells.. for someone doing 100% automatic, I would expect 20hrs plus of dive time.. last set I tracked (mix of manual and automatic) I had about 40 hours.. Thanks! Green sent. Bought a set of 20 LST 14500 thinking it was the best, since listed for HH on DiveRiteExpress. __________________ My initials: JAAP
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20th May 2008, 05:30	#20 (permalink)
*jradomski* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Sport Kiss Optima rEvo Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Classic Kiss rEvo Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: "Da" Bronx Posts: 2,998	Re: Some more battery questions Quote: (Originally Posted by jaap) Thanks! Green sent. Bought a set of 20 LST 14500 thinking it was the best, since listed for HH on DiveRiteExpress. The LS cells ill have about a 50% greater capacity at a 50ma constant discharge as compared to lst cells.. The LS has a continuous current rating of 130ma for 50% of capacity as opposed to 45ma for the LST cells.. Also the LS cells have a SS battery casing, this has supposedly been added to the newer LST cells.. __________________ Joe Radomski CCR Trimix Instructor Trainer ANDI Instructor Trainer Director #10 All posts are personal opinions and DO NOT reflect any affiliated agency unless specifically stated.
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