Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks

RAL · 19th June 2006, 23:33

Quote:

I tried the sidemount system for the first time last week. I probably have some adjustments to make (cam band lower I think), but any general info you have might be nice for the rest of us also. I couldn't get everything setup by myself, especially getting the bungee looped around the tank ... couldn't get hold of the bungee.

Kevin

Clip the bungees to your chest d rings. Then you can hook the bungee with your thumb & stretch it over the handle on your valve. Takes a couple dives to sort out the adjustments but well worth the effort, your tanks ride in line with you body neat & streamlined.

Regards RAL

Curt Bowen · 20th June 2006, 00:31

Quote: (Originally Posted by UWSojourner)

Hey Curt,

I tried the sidemount system for the first time last week. I probably have some adjustments to make (cam band lower I think), but any general info you have might be nice for the rest of us also. I couldn't get everything setup by myself, especially getting the bungee looped around the tank ... couldn't get hold of the bungee.

Kevin

You need to add a little bungee from your chest d-ring to your back bungee. We call this the retrieval strap.

Download my free armadillo manual at

http://www.advanceddivermagazine.com/armadillo.html

Take a close look at the first illustration on the web page. You will see a small strap coming from the back bungee to the chest d-ring.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 20th June 2006, 03:25

I found the manual very helpful. Now, I think I finally get it. Back to the laboratory I go.

One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem.

What does one do in that case?

Mike · 20th June 2006, 11:18

Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami)

One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem.

What does one do in that case?

It's not a problem. Mount the lower clip about halfway up the tank and the bungy holds the tank upright. The lower clip can easily take the weight of the tank and the bungy stops it moving around much.

I like the tails on the lower mount short to hold the tanks in close to my body, so they don't move around much - use a dring next to my backplate on the waist strap - holds it in the right position for me.

I don;t use a retrieval strap as it get's in the way of getting into / out of the rig (in my case a prism with the counterlungs as shoulder straps). Can mean a bit of chicken wing work, or asking a buddy for help to grab the bungy loops on land. Underwater, it's easy to grab the tank and stretch the neck forward to unloop the bungy if you want to remove the tank.

I also have the philosophy that I'm setting up bailout to be out of the way on normal dives, rather than convenient to swap tanks backwards and forwards in the event of a total cluster. If shit has gone that badly wrong I'll just nose clip the tank at my waist once I'm done with it - or dump it and get it later, or clip it off on the line or whatever. Once it's empty I really don't care what happens to it. You only need to be able to get to the reg on the first tank in a hurry, after that you'll be on deco and have heaps of time - and probably a bunch of mates offering up gas as well (dives I'm doing we are all more or less self sufficient anyway)

Mike

Mike

Curt Bowen · 20th June 2006, 13:33

Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami)

I found the manual very helpful. Now, I think I finally get it. Back to the laboratory I go.

One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem.

What does one do in that case?

Easy

For boat diving I add a short lanyard around the cylinder necks and a clip. The clip is attached to your upper chest d-ring. This way all the weight from the cylinder is held by the clip and lanyard.

Make the lanyard about 4 inches long. This way you can move the cylinder up and underneath your armpit and attach the bungee over the cylinder on-off knob without unclipping the lanyard clip.

To get back on the boat, remove the bungees from the tank during your last few minutes of decompression. The lanyard clip will hold the cylinder down infront of you. Remove your fins and climb up the boat ladder. The cylinders will be held tight against your side.

dive2dive2000 · 20th June 2006, 14:59

Quote: (Originally Posted by Curt Bowen)

Easy

For boat diving I add a short lanyard around the cylinder necks and a clip. The clip is attached to your upper chest d-ring. This way all the weight from the cylinder is held by the clip and lanyard.

Make the lanyard about 4 inches long. This way you can move the cylinder up and underneath your armpit and attach the bungee over the cylinder on-off knob without unclipping the lanyard clip.

To get back on the boat, remove the bungees from the tank during your last few minutes of decompression. The lanyard clip will hold the cylinder down infront of you. Remove your fins and climb up the boat ladder. The cylinders will be held tight against your side.

Hi Curt,

Wow thanks for all the input, now that is a good idea!

The guys I learned sidemount rigging from have all taken sidemount cave courses and actively dive side mount rigs, so it took me a few dives to get it right. With that said even on my first dive with my bottle rigged wrong I found it a 100 times more comfortable. I wish I had learned this system when I first started diving! WE dive in cold water and use thick undergarments, we switched from shock cord to bicycle inner tubes, they give a little bit more stretch for the limitted mobility with the thicker undergarments.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 20th June 2006, 22:23

I am very much looking forward to trying this out.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 12th July 2006, 05:12

Well, I have done a tentative setup for the sidemount configuration. I just need to make the lanyard now (for boat diving).

I put the main strap just south of the middle of the tank (within an inch I would say). I might have to move it a bit after the first test run.

I hope to take a run out this coming weekend to see how it all works out. I will have a go at removing and replacing the bottles to make sure I can do this in case I should need to pass bottles to a buddy. If this works well, I will have reached my goal.

At this point, I don't have both left hand and right hand valved bailout bottles. So, I hope that this will not be too much of an issue. I might also have to re-route my regulators and hoses compared to how I had them set up for sling mounting.

It's a work in progress!

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 17th July 2006, 05:01

My first try at a full sidemount setup was a complete disaster.

My plan was to do a couple of easy dives no deeper than 30 feet/9 meters so that I could make some practice runs. While everything seemed to fit on land when setting up my kit at home, I was way, way off with the sidemount setup in the water.

First, it was quite difficult to clip on the tanks aboard the dive boat. So, I elected to just clip my tanks onto my shoulder d-rings (using my tank neck slider bolts), and then I would deal with moving the tanks to their final position after entering the water. However, after hitting the water, I could not get everything worked out on the surface. So, I cut myself a break, figuring I could descend and then play with everything on the bottom until getting used to the setup.

I think it took almost five minutes for me to put everything together on the bottom. Even then, I could not pull the bungees down far enough to work the valves into them properly. (I had them too short). I ended out clipping my tank neck clips onto the bungees rather than having the bungees around the valve knobs. At least this way, I was able to do some dives. Unfortunately, this meant abandoning thoughts of practicing removing and replacing the tanks underwater. I guess that will come later.

Actually, once things were stabilized like this, I was able to have a pretty nice dive. It was great not to have the tanks sticking out ahead of me and getting in the way of my arms. I definitely put forth less effort to move through the water. It even felt easier to backwards kick. The tails were in perfect position. I just need to take care of the top of the tanks, and then I should be in business.

Although I didn't really get a chance to practice removing and replacing my bailout bottles, I did do several drills. So, my time in the water was not wasted.

I am wondering if just lengthening the bungee a bit but continuing to clip the tank neck clip onto the bungee might not be a better way for me to go here. I need some time to digest and contemplate what went on, and to come up with the next attempt at a solution.

While my first attempt at this setup did not go well, I do think it will be worth it once I figure it out.

***ScubaDadMiami*** · 23rd July 2006, 04:17

I am meeting some bubblemaker friends of mine tomorrow at Jules' Undersea Lodge, in Key Largo (Florida Keys). While one purpose of my visit will be to join my friends for some confined water skills practice, my primary objective will be to work on making the adjustments to my sidemount configuration.

This place is ideal because it has a platform, in just about two feet of water, a great place to stop for adjustments to equipment after which I can get back in the water to see what the next adjustment should be. Eventually, I hope to I finally have things in proper order. I have been contemplating some configuration solutions for the sidemounting, and I hope to get this figured out once and for all tomorrow.

19th June 2006, 23:33	#11 (permalink)
RAL Longbottom Time Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: North Florida Posts: 391	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Quote: I tried the sidemount system for the first time last week. I probably have some adjustments to make (cam band lower I think), but any general info you have might be nice for the rest of us also. I couldn't get everything setup by myself, especially getting the bungee looped around the tank ... couldn't get hold of the bungee. Kevin Clip the bungees to your chest d rings. Then you can hook the bungee with your thumb & stretch it over the handle on your valve. Takes a couple dives to sort out the adjustments but well worth the effort, your tanks ride in line with you body neat & streamlined. Regards RAL __________________ The sea does not care about you. Last edited by Decodiver : 20th June 2006 at 09:37. Reason: Formatted quote
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 00:31	#12 (permalink)
Curt Bowen RebreatherWorld Sponsor Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Sport Kiss Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: USA, Florida Posts: 249	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Quote: (Originally Posted by UWSojourner) Hey Curt, I tried the sidemount system for the first time last week. I probably have some adjustments to make (cam band lower I think), but any general info you have might be nice for the rest of us also. I couldn't get everything setup by myself, especially getting the bungee looped around the tank ... couldn't get hold of the bungee. Kevin You need to add a little bungee from your chest d-ring to your back bungee. We call this the retrieval strap. Download my free armadillo manual at http://www.advanceddivermagazine.com/armadillo.html Take a close look at the first illustration on the web page. You will see a small strap coming from the back bungee to the chest d-ring.
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 03:25	#13 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,141	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks I found the manual very helpful. Now, I think I finally get it. Back to the laboratory I go. One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem. What does one do in that case? __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 11:18	#14 (permalink)
Mike Prism 'prentice Current Rebreather/s: Prism Topaz Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Evolution Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Melbourne Posts: 329	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami) One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem. What does one do in that case? It's not a problem. Mount the lower clip about halfway up the tank and the bungy holds the tank upright. The lower clip can easily take the weight of the tank and the bungy stops it moving around much. I like the tails on the lower mount short to hold the tanks in close to my body, so they don't move around much - use a dring next to my backplate on the waist strap - holds it in the right position for me. I don;t use a retrieval strap as it get's in the way of getting into / out of the rig (in my case a prism with the counterlungs as shoulder straps). Can mean a bit of chicken wing work, or asking a buddy for help to grab the bungy loops on land. Underwater, it's easy to grab the tank and stretch the neck forward to unloop the bungy if you want to remove the tank. I also have the philosophy that I'm setting up bailout to be out of the way on normal dives, rather than convenient to swap tanks backwards and forwards in the event of a total cluster. If shit has gone that badly wrong I'll just nose clip the tank at my waist once I'm done with it - or dump it and get it later, or clip it off on the line or whatever. Once it's empty I really don't care what happens to it. You only need to be able to get to the reg on the first tank in a hurry, after that you'll be on deco and have heaps of time - and probably a bunch of mates offering up gas as well (dives I'm doing we are all more or less self sufficient anyway) Mike Mike __________________ Open ....... Closed Mind ........ Loop
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 13:33	#15 (permalink)
Curt Bowen RebreatherWorld Sponsor Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Sport Kiss Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: USA, Florida Posts: 249	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Quote: (Originally Posted by ScubaDadMiami) I found the manual very helpful. Now, I think I finally get it. Back to the laboratory I go. One thing: It mentions that the system is not designed to hold the tanks out of water. However, we often have to jump and then dive bomb wrecks in order to hit them around here. So, there is no time to connect the tanks before getting in the water. On the way out, I can pass them up to the boat. It's just on the way down that is the problem. What does one do in that case? Easy For boat diving I add a short lanyard around the cylinder necks and a clip. The clip is attached to your upper chest d-ring. This way all the weight from the cylinder is held by the clip and lanyard. Make the lanyard about 4 inches long. This way you can move the cylinder up and underneath your armpit and attach the bungee over the cylinder on-off knob without unclipping the lanyard clip. To get back on the boat, remove the bungees from the tank during your last few minutes of decompression. The lanyard clip will hold the cylinder down infront of you. Remove your fins and climb up the boat ladder. The cylinders will be held tight against your side.
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 14:59	#16 (permalink)
dive2dive2000 PRISM DIVER & LUVIN IT! Current Rebreather/s: Prism Topaz Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 793	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Quote: (Originally Posted by Curt Bowen) Easy For boat diving I add a short lanyard around the cylinder necks and a clip. The clip is attached to your upper chest d-ring. This way all the weight from the cylinder is held by the clip and lanyard. Make the lanyard about 4 inches long. This way you can move the cylinder up and underneath your armpit and attach the bungee over the cylinder on-off knob without unclipping the lanyard clip. To get back on the boat, remove the bungees from the tank during your last few minutes of decompression. The lanyard clip will hold the cylinder down infront of you. Remove your fins and climb up the boat ladder. The cylinders will be held tight against your side. Hi Curt, Wow thanks for all the input, now that is a good idea! The guys I learned sidemount rigging from have all taken sidemount cave courses and actively dive side mount rigs, so it took me a few dives to get it right. With that said even on my first dive with my bottle rigged wrong I found it a 100 times more comfortable. I wish I had learned this system when I first started diving! WE dive in cold water and use thick undergarments, we switched from shock cord to bicycle inner tubes, they give a little bit more stretch for the limitted mobility with the thicker undergarments. __________________ Safe Diving, Martin
(Offline)

20th June 2006, 22:23	#17 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,141	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks I am very much looking forward to trying this out. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

12th July 2006, 05:12	#18 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,141	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks Well, I have done a tentative setup for the sidemount configuration. I just need to make the lanyard now (for boat diving). I put the main strap just south of the middle of the tank (within an inch I would say). I might have to move it a bit after the first test run. I hope to take a run out this coming weekend to see how it all works out. I will have a go at removing and replacing the bottles to make sure I can do this in case I should need to pass bottles to a buddy. If this works well, I will have reached my goal. At this point, I don't have both left hand and right hand valved bailout bottles. So, I hope that this will not be too much of an issue. I might also have to re-route my regulators and hoses compared to how I had them set up for sling mounting. It's a work in progress! __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

17th July 2006, 05:01	#19 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,141	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks My first try at a full sidemount setup was a complete disaster. My plan was to do a couple of easy dives no deeper than 30 feet/9 meters so that I could make some practice runs. While everything seemed to fit on land when setting up my kit at home, I was way, way off with the sidemount setup in the water. First, it was quite difficult to clip on the tanks aboard the dive boat. So, I elected to just clip my tanks onto my shoulder d-rings (using my tank neck slider bolts), and then I would deal with moving the tanks to their final position after entering the water. However, after hitting the water, I could not get everything worked out on the surface. So, I cut myself a break, figuring I could descend and then play with everything on the bottom until getting used to the setup. I think it took almost five minutes for me to put everything together on the bottom. Even then, I could not pull the bungees down far enough to work the valves into them properly. (I had them too short). I ended out clipping my tank neck clips onto the bungees rather than having the bungees around the valve knobs. At least this way, I was able to do some dives. Unfortunately, this meant abandoning thoughts of practicing removing and replacing the tanks underwater. I guess that will come later. Actually, once things were stabilized like this, I was able to have a pretty nice dive. It was great not to have the tanks sticking out ahead of me and getting in the way of my arms. I definitely put forth less effort to move through the water. It even felt easier to backwards kick. The tails were in perfect position. I just need to take care of the top of the tanks, and then I should be in business. Although I didn't really get a chance to practice removing and replacing my bailout bottles, I did do several drills. So, my time in the water was not wasted. I am wondering if just lengthening the bungee a bit but continuing to clip the tank neck clip onto the bungee might not be a better way for me to go here. I need some time to digest and contemplate what went on, and to come up with the next attempt at a solution. While my first attempt at this setup did not go well, I do think it will be worth it once I figure it out. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com Last edited by ScubaDadMiami : 17th July 2006 at 05:04.
(Offline)

23rd July 2006, 04:17	#20 (permalink)
*ScubaDadMiami* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Florida, USA Posts: 2,141	Re: Sidemounting with Aluminum Tanks I am meeting some bubblemaker friends of mine tomorrow at Jules' Undersea Lodge, in Key Largo (Florida Keys). While one purpose of my visit will be to join my friends for some confined water skills practice, my primary objective will be to work on making the adjustments to my sidemount configuration. This place is ideal because it has a platform, in just about two feet of water, a great place to stop for adjustments to equipment after which I can get back in the water to see what the next adjustment should be. Eventually, I hope to I finally have things in proper order. I have been contemplating some configuration solutions for the sidemounting, and I hope to get this figured out once and for all tomorrow. __________________ Howard Packer IANTD CCR Instructor Miami Beach, Florida CCRDiveTraining.com
(Offline)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode