Dead solenoid

rogeringebo

My solenoid seems to have quit on me....worked great yesterday and nothing today
I have managed to find out that the electronics give voltage to the solenoid but it wont open (or make that clicking sound)....the gas flow seems to be fine but it just does not react to current.....My machine is about one year old and the solenoid is mostly copper-colored...dont know the name right now....

(Yes,I will call Leon but thought someone here might know)

-At what voltage should the solenoid open?
-Does ISC normally change a thing like this because its a fairly new machine?
-Just to buy the solenoid,how much could that be?

Cheers
Rodge

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Offgas

If you're below 5.5v than I'd be suspect of the batteries.

Offgas

Steve

Copper coloured you say? I've not seen one fitting that description in a Meg. When you have a chance could you post a picture please?

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RonMicjan

more likely its brass and its the normal snap tite 6V solenoid, if your battery is OK, then it may have had the internals exposed to salt water. Its best to ship the head in for diagnosis and replacement. Leon is out of the country but Steve is available and can help you out. Steve and I finished assembling and boxing up 9 megs today, 4 for DEMA and the rest for customers who will pick them up at DEMA. 14 hour day, not including the drive...no wonder Im exhausted...time for bed methinks...

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JonnyB

That crap mate!
But i got the filters yesterday and i will send you one out with the post ASAP with the description on how to take the solenoid apart, then you will also be able to clean it!

Hoppas det löser sig

/Jonny

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heyydude

I've pointed this out before, and I sent Joe Radomski some pictures to post (I need to learn how to do that properly on RBW):

The solenoids used by nearly everyone are subject to internal corrosion if they come into contact (internally, as you may imagine) with salt water.

The Piston and Spring which reside in the gas path of most valves are (by necessity) made of ferrous metal. That means that they don't like sea water.

So it isn't necessarily a flaw of the valve (hence, a Warranty issue). We don't see a lot of this with the Hammerheads, mostly because the O2 input to the Inspo head is perpendicular to the top of the Head itself - making it a "straight up" design. Divers I've talked to tend to wipe off the top of the head prior to taking it apart. Of course, this is merely my own conjecture, but I believe that the Quick Connect design may give people a false sense of "sealing" and may lead to the forced injection of salty water into the solenoid itself.

That said, I LIKE the Quick Connects on the Meg - I think it was a really good design decision by Leon - the Inspo (and HH) heads have seemingly more potential to allow water into the solenoid, which a sealed QC should rectify. As I stated above, I am guessing that that doesn't happen due to some of the "obvious" nature of the potential issue.

So, with all that said, here are a couple of simple steps can help minimize the possibility of salty water ruining your valve on the Meg:

On the end of the QC-4 pigtail (the male part), there is a small "button" which, when depressed, releases gas from the line. Pressing that under pressure, prior to connecting the QC-4 sides will "blow" it out.

You can do the same thing to the female part, only you have to stick something down there - which I do NOT recommend you do. Instead, use the gas blowing out of the male end to clear out any residual water. If possible (such as in your shop) use dry compressed air from a compressor to blow out the female side of the quick connect.

You will go a long way to keeping your solenoid dry and happy.

And "dry" is the key here - by all means, do NOT use any kind of lubricants.

The valves that Leon and we use are of a very good design, and (contrary to what I just read) will open at lower voltages. The "latching" voltage of the watt misers we use is around 3.4 vDC - so there should be enough room at 5.5 for the valve to function properly.

I am starting to believe that valve maintenance should become a requirement for all eCCR systems - similar to a transmission oil change on your car. I have seen bad valves on nearly every rig we service (which is nearly all of them).

Take care,

Kevin Juergensen
Juergensen Marine, Inc.

rogeringebo

I unscrew it from the head itself and put 7,5 volts on the two metal bits (there are probably a fancy name in english) but nothing....no click,nothing
Have checked the solenoid and its called Snap-tite.....
Have they replaced them before or do I have to buy a new one?
There is no way I am sending the whole head to the US so I hope the will replace and ship my failing part....
If not how much is a new one?

Cheers
Rodge

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heyydude

Rodge,

The coil on these rarely goes bad anymore. The coils used to be open - now, they're moulded with the power conductors as a single unit.

Just replace the body of the valve (including the steel frame around it) and try again.

Leon should have replacements. Or you can e-mail me <kevin@rebreather.us> and we can get one out to you. Leon has changed to the Jaksa (which is one reason you may want ISC to service your head), but we still use the snap tite.

Take care,

Kevin Juergensen
Juergensen Marine, Inc.

Genesis

The Snap-Tites are easily disassembled but you are likely to find corrosion on the internal bits (the plunger) and/or spring, etc and if so its basically hosed. The plunger may be seized in the bore and the ways you get it out in that circumstance are not compatable with oxygen! Plus its pretty easy to damage the seat.

Its easier to just change the non-coil parts, as was noted. Check the coil if you can with an ohmmeter to see if its ok - if its totally open then its hosed. This might be somewhat difficult depending on the wiring but if you've been able to measure the voltage to the coil then you can check the coil's resistance as well.

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jkaterenchuk

Rodge

I recently purchased a used HH for my inspiration. It was only 6 months old and only dove in fresh water a couple of times. When I set it up the solenoid did not work. Joe Radomski talked me thru checking for voltage to the solenoid and continuity across the coil. These all check out OK so he talked me thru removing the solenoid and its disassembly. It was very easy to take apart and once opened it became clear what the problem was....see the pics below.

I was able to soak the parts in dilute vinegar and remove the corrosion. I reassebled the solenoid and it worked properly. I was sure to check that it cycling properly and closing fully and not allowing any O2 leakage. This allowed me to use the unit safely until a replacement solenoid could be obtained and installed. Hope this helps you.

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