Megalodon O2 Solenoid Isolation Plumbing Diagram

Steve

At last, some sense in this thread. Have some green

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cramerdn

Here we go. Let the religious debate begin.

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Joe

I agree, and I also agree that disconnecting the QC underwater for training purposes is not a good idea. But, if the solenoid is really stuck open it doesn't really matter because the whole mechanism needs to be cleaned and flushed out anyway.

I found (the hard way) that that whole mechanism is very sensitive to moisture, even to the point that you need to be cautious with dipping your reg to clean it. The smallest amount of water in the first stage will cause you problems.

Since I began keeping the reg pressurized while hosing it down and not depressurizing it till it is bone dry I've had no problems.

mempilot

I have abandoned this project for a simpler solution.

I did not get a chance to dive it, and after a blown o-ring on an attempted 200 fsw dive in poor conditions the other day, I have decided to eliminate all unneeded o-rings from the rig.

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Eric Stadtmueller, otherwise known as, MEM "Da Pilot"

cramerdn

Hmmm maybe some of the DIR dogma has some application

I assume the failure was not catastophc since you are still here with us. Good news.

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"Its better to live one day as a tiger than an entire life as a worm."

"But who's ever heard of a worm skin rug?"

Lancer4545

Hey Eric,

Can it get any more simple than this??

The trouble with throttling the tank valve to add O2 is you just don't have any real control over the amount you're going to add. It's not all that critical if you're shallow but at anything slightly deeper you're going to spike the O2 really high, no matter how hard you try.

The Rasmus flow-stop allows you to leave the tank valve open and use the manual add valve to supply just the right amount every time. It's simple, efficient and make good sense to me!!!

Regards,

Lance

Meg 002.jpg

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mempilot

I had an o-ring let go in a piece of hardware between a LP hose and the Apeks regulator on the Drager (the one that is inside the 9/16 female side that screws onto a regulator). I was at 96 fsw on decent to 192 fsw. I have a feeling that when taking stuff apart and putting it back together, I pinched it and caused it to weaken. It ops checked ok the night before, predived fine, and held until half way down the line.

Then, while prepping gear yesterday afternoon for a dive this morning to 170 fsw, the o-ring in the barrel of an Apeks DS4 that seats around the cone filter exploded. The reg had been rebuilt about 6 months ago and hasn't leaked a bit. I do routinely overfill my tanks by about 500 psi.

Two o-rings in 3 days with some deeper dives on the books was enough to make me question the number I could remove from the system.

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Eric Stadtmueller, otherwise known as, MEM "Da Pilot"

mempilot

Lance,

I have gone to this style setup as of yesterday.

Much simpler like you say.


Thanks for the advice guys!

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Eric Stadtmueller, otherwise known as, MEM "Da Pilot"

jkaterenchuk

Glad I am getting rid of a bunch of those O rings with the install of the manifold from Lance.

Eric, can you give me a link to the place you got the shutoff valve like the one on Lance's rig?

John

Steve

erm, doesn't adding a manifold ADD O-rings?

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WARNING: I contain occasional coarse language, extreme sexual references, nudity, and adult themes, which may offend some people - Usually churchy types.