From Shadow mounts to Metalsub

netmage · 6th January 2008, 00:59

Bill,

What are you sourcing for the aluminum piece?

-Tim

w ripley · 6th January 2008, 06:18

Tim:

I've looked around but haven't been lucky finding something in a marine-grade aluminum (about half of my diving is in salt water plus when I spoke with Leon in Florida in November about the ISC shadow mounts he mentioned that they were marine-grade aluminum.) I've been sailing all of my life so I turned to the boating stores and am going with SS flat tangs. Just put "stainless steel tangs" in your internet browser to see what they look like and the sizes that are available. Schaefer, Harken, etc., all make them. They're just flat strips of polished SS with holes in each rounded end.

The size I'm using is the 1 inch wide by 8 inches long by 3/16 inch thick. That size allows two webbing bands at 2 inches each and 4 SS hose clamps at 3/4 inch each set up the way Outlaw did but with less space between the two webbing bands than he has. SS is a marine product, is strong for its size, and the tangs have less bulk than the alum. Because they are pretty thin (3/16 inch) I could use the existing SS hose clamps that are holding my backplate mount and shadow mounts.

Bill

**SeaBass** · 6th January 2008, 06:33

Spyros,

Thanks for sharing the pictures and the great ideas.

I noticed that you are using the lighter back plate. How do you like it? I had heard that some have trouble with the wingnuts digging in thier back.

--SB

**Gill Envy** · 6th January 2008, 07:03

wow, great thread!!

for those of us sticking with the shadow mounts for now, are others having trouble with the pins becoming almost impossible to remove if left in overnight? I'm getting chalk build around the pin and have a bugger of a time removing them. Zipper wax makes it worse, silicone helps if done each dive. any suggestions would be much appreciated... the tank band/cam buckle is looking awfully tempting, and shoot, for $14 bucks they are probably worth having at least as back up!

Outlaw · 6th January 2008, 07:49

Quote: (Originally Posted by SeaBass)

Spyros,

Thanks for sharing the pictures and the great ideas.

I noticed that you are using the lighter back plate. How do you like it? I had heard that some have trouble with the wingnuts digging in thier back.

--SB

Hello SB (sorry, dont know the name),

i tried to use the lighter backplate, but you have to have it firmly on the cannister because finding the right nuts gave me a hard time. i want to have my backplate set up ready for any sort of dive, either twin cynlinders OC or rebreather etc. so i gave up that idea and stayed with my zeagle one.

unless i find something that would sort it out for me, i will be using the one i've got at the moment. also one needs to cut the Single tank adapter screws much shorter.

to Bill: i just used normal aluminium piece which i cut myself. no problem. and if in time it shows some signs or "decay" i will simply change it. so cheap and easy to find, it doesn't bother me any more athough i have a set of spare ready

Thanks

Spyros

**SeaBass** · 6th January 2008, 14:17

Quote: (Originally Posted by Outlaw)

Hello SB (sorry, dont know the name),

i tried to use the lighter backplate, but you have to have it firmly on the cannister because finding the right nuts gave me a hard time. i want to have my backplate set up ready for any sort of dive, either twin cynlinders OC or rebreather etc. so i gave up that idea and stayed with my zeagle one.

unless i find something that would sort it out for me, i will be using the one i've got at the moment. also one needs to cut the Single tank adapter screws much shorter.

Thanks Spyros, and again appreicate your time and effort posting the pictures of your setup.

I almost bought the MM backplate similar to yours and was a little worried about the same thing.

Thom

w ripley · 6th January 2008, 15:15

Gill Envy:

I've been using a hammer to put in and remove my pins from day one. I've have even spent a couple of hours with power tools working on the shadow mounts doing this or that to "hopefully" make them work better. I also found that putting a coat of waterproof wheel bearing grease on the pins, and then wiping them dry with a clean rag before putting them in, helps for a couple of dives.

It just seems stupid, to me, to have spent a couple of thousand dollars on a nice Rebreather and have to hit it with a "hammer" to make something on it work. I keep thinking about that old saying, "if you're having to force something, you're doing something wrong."

For $100 (US) -- about the price of one (1) set of shadow mounts -- I have 4 cam cleats with webbing and 2 SS attachment bars that will allow me to fit just about any tank to my Rebreather, and with no further hardware. Like you, this has been a good thread for me, thanks to Outlaw's posts.

Maybe now I can go back to using that hammer for driving nails!

Bill

**Dsix36** · 6th January 2008, 15:39

Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley)

Gill Envy:

I've been using a hammer to put in and remove my pins from day one. I've have even spent a couple of hours with power tools working on the shadow mounts doing this or that to "hopefully" make them work better. I also found that putting a coat of waterproof wheel bearing grease on the pins, and then wiping them dry with a clean rag before putting them in, helps for a couple of dives.

It just seems stupid, to me, to have spent a couple of thousand dollars on a nice Rebreather and have to hit it with a "hammer" to make something on it work. I keep thinking about that old saying, "if you're having to force something, you're doing something wrong."

For $100 (US) -- about the price of one (1) set of shadow mounts -- I have 4 cam cleats with webbing and 2 SS attachment bars that will allow me to fit just about any tank to my Rebreather, and with no further hardware. Like you, this has been a good thread for me, thanks to Outlaw's posts.

Maybe now I can go back to using that hammer for driving nails!

Bill

LMAO.
I thought I had the only rebreather that was hammer friendly!

Outlaw · 6th January 2008, 16:14

Hi guys,

i had problems with the shadow mounts. i was using the hammer and having a screwdriver to push the pin from underneath so it would come out.

i thought that i was the only one with such problems, but it seems that others share the same probs...

i am sure that there cannot be a slimmer profile the way i have my unit set now. plus the weight pockets are a luxury. if you want you use them, if not then you leave it there, to serve as a holder for the displays once you finish the dive ect.

i am very glad that you find this helpful. i got my aluminium pieces from a guy who makes aluminium windows ( the round skeleton to hold the glass)for houses. i hope this helps.

Spyros

6th January 2008, 00:59	#31 (permalink)
netmage Hello Kitty...... Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Coconut Creek, FL Posts: 320	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Bill, What are you sourcing for the aluminum piece? -Tim
(Online)

6th January 2008, 06:18	#32 (permalink)
w ripley Sorta New Member Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other CCR Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Norfolk VA USA Posts: 110	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Tim: I've looked around but haven't been lucky finding something in a marine-grade aluminum (about half of my diving is in salt water plus when I spoke with Leon in Florida in November about the ISC shadow mounts he mentioned that they were marine-grade aluminum.) I've been sailing all of my life so I turned to the boating stores and am going with SS flat tangs. Just put "stainless steel tangs" in your internet browser to see what they look like and the sizes that are available. Schaefer, Harken, etc., all make them. They're just flat strips of polished SS with holes in each rounded end. The size I'm using is the 1 inch wide by 8 inches long by 3/16 inch thick. That size allows two webbing bands at 2 inches each and 4 SS hose clamps at 3/4 inch each set up the way Outlaw did but with less space between the two webbing bands than he has. SS is a marine product, is strong for its size, and the tangs have less bulk than the alum. Because they are pretty thin (3/16 inch) I could use the existing SS hose clamps that are holding my backplate mount and shadow mounts. Bill
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6th January 2008, 06:33	#33 (permalink)
SeaBass Respect the Classics! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Ray Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Ray Home Build Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Clemente, CA Posts: 204	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Spyros, Thanks for sharing the pictures and the great ideas. I noticed that you are using the lighter back plate. How do you like it? I had heard that some have trouble with the wingnuts digging in thier back. --SB
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6th January 2008, 07:03	#34 (permalink)
Gill Envy Shearwater Copis Diver Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Evolution Other CCR Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: seattle Posts: 1,208	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub wow, great thread!! for those of us sticking with the shadow mounts for now, are others having trouble with the pins becoming almost impossible to remove if left in overnight? I'm getting chalk build around the pin and have a bugger of a time removing them. Zipper wax makes it worse, silicone helps if done each dive. any suggestions would be much appreciated... the tank band/cam buckle is looking awfully tempting, and shoot, for $14 bucks they are probably worth having at least as back up! __________________ Gill Envy ...Because I wasn't born with gills! ><(°>><(°>><(°>><(°>><(°>><(°>><(°>><(°>
(Online)

6th January 2008, 07:49	#35 (permalink)
Outlaw In search of Law breaking Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cyprus, Nicosia Posts: 626	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Quote: (Originally Posted by SeaBass) Spyros, Thanks for sharing the pictures and the great ideas. I noticed that you are using the lighter back plate. How do you like it? I had heard that some have trouble with the wingnuts digging in thier back. --SB Hello SB (sorry, dont know the name), i tried to use the lighter backplate, but you have to have it firmly on the cannister because finding the right nuts gave me a hard time. i want to have my backplate set up ready for any sort of dive, either twin cynlinders OC or rebreather etc. so i gave up that idea and stayed with my zeagle one. unless i find something that would sort it out for me, i will be using the one i've got at the moment. also one needs to cut the Single tank adapter screws much shorter. to Bill: i just used normal aluminium piece which i cut myself. no problem. and if in time it shows some signs or "decay" i will simply change it. so cheap and easy to find, it doesn't bother me any more athough i have a set of spare ready Thanks Spyros __________________ CMAS - IANTD - TDI Kamikazi Instrustor Trainer DIRRebreather Team Member ---------------------------- "Once an Outlaw, always an Outlaw"
(Offline)

6th January 2008, 14:17	#36 (permalink)
SeaBass Respect the Classics! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Ray Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Ray Home Build Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Clemente, CA Posts: 204	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Quote: (Originally Posted by Outlaw) Hello SB (sorry, dont know the name), i tried to use the lighter backplate, but you have to have it firmly on the cannister because finding the right nuts gave me a hard time. i want to have my backplate set up ready for any sort of dive, either twin cynlinders OC or rebreather etc. so i gave up that idea and stayed with my zeagle one. unless i find something that would sort it out for me, i will be using the one i've got at the moment. also one needs to cut the Single tank adapter screws much shorter. Thanks Spyros, and again appreicate your time and effort posting the pictures of your setup. I almost bought the MM backplate similar to yours and was a little worried about the same thing. Thom
(Offline)

6th January 2008, 15:15	#37 (permalink)
w ripley Sorta New Member Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other CCR Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Norfolk VA USA Posts: 110	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Gill Envy: I've been using a hammer to put in and remove my pins from day one. I've have even spent a couple of hours with power tools working on the shadow mounts doing this or that to "hopefully" make them work better. I also found that putting a coat of waterproof wheel bearing grease on the pins, and then wiping them dry with a clean rag before putting them in, helps for a couple of dives. It just seems stupid, to me, to have spent a couple of thousand dollars on a nice Rebreather and have to hit it with a "hammer" to make something on it work. I keep thinking about that old saying, "if you're having to force something, you're doing something wrong." For $100 (US) -- about the price of one (1) set of shadow mounts -- I have 4 cam cleats with webbing and 2 SS attachment bars that will allow me to fit just about any tank to my Rebreather, and with no further hardware. Like you, this has been a good thread for me, thanks to Outlaw's posts. Maybe now I can go back to using that hammer for driving nails! Bill
(Offline)

6th January 2008, 15:39	#38 (permalink)
Dsix36 Going Down? Current Rebreather/s: Optima Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: florida Posts: 856	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Quote: (Originally Posted by w ripley) Gill Envy: I've been using a hammer to put in and remove my pins from day one. I've have even spent a couple of hours with power tools working on the shadow mounts doing this or that to "hopefully" make them work better. I also found that putting a coat of waterproof wheel bearing grease on the pins, and then wiping them dry with a clean rag before putting them in, helps for a couple of dives. It just seems stupid, to me, to have spent a couple of thousand dollars on a nice Rebreather and have to hit it with a "hammer" to make something on it work. I keep thinking about that old saying, "if you're having to force something, you're doing something wrong." For $100 (US) -- about the price of one (1) set of shadow mounts -- I have 4 cam cleats with webbing and 2 SS attachment bars that will allow me to fit just about any tank to my Rebreather, and with no further hardware. Like you, this has been a good thread for me, thanks to Outlaw's posts. Maybe now I can go back to using that hammer for driving nails! Bill LMAO. I thought I had the only rebreather that was hammer friendly! __________________ THE MORE THAT I LEARN, THE MORE THAT I STILL NEED TO LEARN!!!!!!
(Online)

6th January 2008, 16:14	#39 (permalink)
Outlaw In search of Law breaking Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Cyprus, Nicosia Posts: 626	Re: From Shadow mounts to Metalsub Hi guys, i had problems with the shadow mounts. i was using the hammer and having a screwdriver to push the pin from underneath so it would come out. i thought that i was the only one with such problems, but it seems that others share the same probs... i am sure that there cannot be a slimmer profile the way i have my unit set now. plus the weight pockets are a luxury. if you want you use them, if not then you leave it there, to serve as a holder for the displays once you finish the dive ect. i am very glad that you find this helpful. i got my aluminium pieces from a guy who makes aluminium windows ( the round skeleton to hold the glass)for houses. i hope this helps. Spyros __________________ CMAS - IANTD - TDI Kamikazi Instrustor Trainer DIRRebreather Team Member ---------------------------- "Once an Outlaw, always an Outlaw"
(Offline)

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