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Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving



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Old 17th May 2006, 22:53   #1 (permalink)
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Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

OK so i phone them and say my heads playing up but i am going away for a weeks diving on the 20th so can you get it fixed.

Ohhhhhhhh we will do our best they say.

So its sent down overnight and they have it Wednesday last week.

I phone today.

They haven't even looked at it yet and I should allow 15 days for repair??????

F@cking great when I am diving for a week on Loyal Watcher come Saturday?

Are you? they ask

Errrrr yes thats what I said on the phone and put in writing when I sent the head in.

Oh well Ill get them to have a look tomorow??????????

But i don't think we can get it back by Friday???????????????????????????


Soooooooooooo

Looks like my first ever dive on a HH will be between 70m and 90m >

F@cked off or what...

Knew this would happen



Mark Chase
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Old 18th May 2006, 00:19   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Mark,

My commiserations ... Had a similar experience, where it took them 7!!! weeks to repair one handset. Missed out on a long weekend in one of my favourity dive spots as a result. And as in your case, they acted against written instructions, which cost me extra import duty and also delayed the return of the head unnecessarily.

Something has changed in APD, and not for the better!

Mod: Maybe this thread should be moved into the Inspiration forum?
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Old 18th May 2006, 01:46   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mark Chase)

----Snip------


Soooooooooooo

Looks like my first ever dive on a HH will be between 70m and 90m >

F@cked off or what...

Knew this would happen



Mark Chase
Mark,

You know what I'm going to say... DO NOT make your first dive with any new kit 70-90m P-L-E-A-S-E!

I've lost my share of friends, and even though you aren't even (technically) a customer, I don't want you to be taking unnecessary risks. There isn't anything down there worth it - believe me.

Even if you had your original head back from AP, I wouldn't do a 90m dive on it right away.

Please be careful no matter what you do - be it shallow or deep. You're a talented diver, and an asset to the Rebreather community - stick around for a while...

Maybe I'll get some money out of you eventually...

Take care,

Kevin.
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Old 18th May 2006, 07:31   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Quote: (Originally Posted by heyydude)
Mark,

You know what I'm going to say... DO NOT make your first dive with any new kit 70-90m P-L-E-A-S-E!

I've lost my share of friends, and even though you aren't even (technically) a customer, I don't want you to be taking unnecessary risks. There isn't anything down there worth it - believe me.

Even if you had your original head back from AP, I wouldn't do a 90m dive on it right away.

Please be careful no matter what you do - be it shallow or deep. You're a talented diver, and an asset to the Rebreather community - stick around for a while...

Maybe I'll get some money out of you eventually...

Take care,

Kevin.
I'll second Kevin for that, it aint worth it mate!

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Old 18th May 2006, 08:20   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Yes your both absolutely right, sorry I wrote the post in a fit of anger and the last bit was true but reflects a level of stupidity even I cant achieve

Hopefully we will do a warm up dive in about 60m and If I haven't got my head back Ill be spending the whole dive on the shot at various depths fiddling with my HH. I will also have two 10ltr bailouts and a VR3 (or two) as back up. Ill run one VR3 in OC mode with my bailouts programed in so I don't have to fiddle and the other in CCR on 1.2. to back up the HH.

My attitude is if i screw up on the HH it will be a PP02 issue. If i am paying attention that should not escalate into anything serious and if in doubt Ill just bail. Ill be double checking the deco (custom set to 20/80GF) against the VR3 which seems to run about right with 20/80.

I have been dry running the unit and it appears straight forward enough. Ill try and jump in to Layborn Lake tomorrow as well.

Well aware now of the need to calibrate both hand sets. At the end of the day if I calibrate them correctly (should be able to confirm on the boat and at 6m) They will give me PP02 readings that if nothing else i can manage manually.

I reckon on my normal rig the dive is 60/40 with 60% being the dive and 40 being checking hand sets. The HUD makes this possible. If i have to run the HH its going to be more like 80/20 to the HH.

Ultimately if I don't feel comfortable Ill can all the dives and go home to my kids.


ATB

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Old 18th May 2006, 08:32   #6 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Good news!

Great news Mark!

I know a very lovely lady who said she might lend you her Inspo head for the week! You'll have to sort couriering(sp?), but other than that...

Gimme a call? I'll check it's still OK at this end...

(PS I've been told I have to come and dive with you to make sure you don't lose it - at least you can guarantee your kit's coming back... )

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Old 18th May 2006, 08:47   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Good news!

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mdemon)
Great news Mark!

I know a very lovely lady who said she might lend you her Inspo head for the week! You'll have to sort couriering(sp?), but other than that...

Gimme a call? I'll check it's still OK at this end...

(PS I've been told I have to come and dive with you to make sure you don't lose it - at least you can guarantee your kit's coming back... )


Thanks Buddy, Sorry in advance but I might be a nervous diver all week. It will give my SWM shot monitor tag line new meening

ATB

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Old 18th May 2006, 08:50   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Hi Mark,

some tips that might be useful (you probably know all them):
  • Make sure you have full battery in both handsets and that they were not drained because the handsets stayed on due to spray or a problem with the depth sensors. After the dive, rinse immediately with fresh water, dry the wet connectors and wait until the handsets turn off automatically. Put a towel/cover over the handsets to keep them dry.
  • Do a proper callibration. It takes more time and O2 than on the classic but you only have to do it once for an entire trip. I O2 flush four to five times until the MV readings are completely stable. Make sure that the pressure in the lungs is not higher than ambient pressure.
  • I have the primary on my arm and clip the secondary to the counter lung. I have a VR3 on my right arm and tend to look at that more ofter. The VR3 provides more information and is easier to look at. I set the SP on the VR3 0.05 BAR lower than the actual SP.
  • Make sure all your gasses are programmed in the HH and the VR3.
  • I set the Diva to alert mode. The red warning led really draws your attention. I can't be bothered to count the flashes.
  • Reset the stack timer when you fill the cannister.
  • Set the O2 IP to 7.5 or higher. I believe that Kevin recommended 9 bar in some other post.
I hope this helps a bit. Enjoy the dives but keep it safe.

Peter
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Old 18th May 2006, 09:00   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Quote: (Originally Posted by PCDiver)
Hi Mark,

some tips that might be useful (you probably know all them):
  • Make sure you have full battery in both handsets and that they were not drained because the handsets stayed on due to spray or a problem with the depth sensors. After the dive, rinse immediately with fresh water, dry the wet connectors and wait until the handsets turn off automatically. Put a towel/cover over the handsets to keep them dry.
  • Do a proper callibration. It takes more time and O2 than on the classic but you only have to do it once for an entire trip. I O2 flush four to five times until the MV readings are completely stable. Make sure that the pressure in the lungs is not higher than ambient pressure.
  • I have the primary on my arm and clip the secondary to the counter lung. I have a VR3 on my right arm and tend to look at that more ofter. The VR3 provides more information and is easier to look at. I set the SP on the VR3 0.05 BAR lower than the actual SP.
  • Make sure all your gasses are programmed in the HH and the VR3.
  • I set the Diva to alert mode. The red warning led really draws your attention. I can't be bothered to count the flashes.
  • Reset the stack timer when you fill the cannister.
  • Set the O2 IP to 7.5 or higher. I believe that Kevin recommended 9 bar in some other post.
I hope this helps a bit. Enjoy the dives but keep it safe.

Peter

Thanks thats very usefull info.

Totaly agree on the HUD mode

I have set the stack timer to max and plan to put fresh batteries in every two dives. I understand that changing the batteries re sets the stack timer? but ill check it anyway.

I have had the buzzer on the Insp going off in my ear for 45mins and that was bad but a vibrating HUD would have me skipping deco

ATB

Mark Chase
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Old 18th May 2006, 09:20   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Aaaaarrrrrrgggggghhhhhhh >:( AP Diving

Quote: (Originally Posted by Mark Chase)
I have set the stack timer to max and plan to put fresh batteries in every two dives. I understand that changing the batteries re sets the stack timer? but ill check it anyway.

I have had the buzzer on the Insp going off in my ear for 45mins and that was bad but a vibrating HUD would have me skipping deco

ATB

Mark Chase
Make sure you put the primary in "go to sleep" mode when you change the batteries. If you don't the primary will loose the tissue loading information.
You can always use the 3.6V battery in the primary and low capacity one in the secondary. I try to avoid changing batteries on a boat.

If you run into strange battery problems (bad contact), clean the battery cap and put some conductive silicone gel on the cap threads. I had the primary dying at 15 meters but working at the surface on a full battery. Cleaning the cap and the gel solved that problem.

You can always reset the stack timer underwater. Better for your teeth fillings.
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