Coaxial Oxygen sensors

Shaunzxr

Out of interest:
How did the floods ocur?

David Pye

OPV I thought, from reading DrMike's posts...

Bazza

Hi Jas .... do it mate !

I have fitted them to the HH and it works perfect.

regards Baz

koputai

Thanks Baz, do you keep the coax sensors in stock?

Cheers,
Jason.

Drmike

well the funniest one was when I was clearing a hose gurgle when 800m+ inside the Russel @50m+. Holding the dsv above my head and shaking it to let the droplets travel down the hoses and into the CLs.

I did a good job shaking out the droplets, problem is I forgot to close the dsv opps!

Rest was debris in the opv, design of the opv. Since the opv design change and the filter fitted I havent had a single flood in 100s of hour of use so figure that problem is well and truly fixed.

Homebuild floods were all on the bob, due to adv not being turned on/dill not connected, dsv being left open after swicth, dsv being knocked open crawling through a cave.

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Wreck diving is a sport
Diving in general is a sport

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its the delusional obsession with a highly dangerous and often inappropriate piece of equipment

Bazza

But of course .... with so many Vision units down here now I need to have a supply to hand.

regards Baz

Dave Sutton

Hey Jason, I've just been buying the R-10's, cut off the Winchester connectors, solder on a ring connector and then use the screws on the sensor bridge to connect the ring connectors to the rig. Takes 5 mins max to modify the sensors and they are bulletproof. As you know the wires are permanently attached to the cells and are potted.

Just FYI, my R-10's which I opened up in July 2006 are still running strong: 24mv at atmosphere in air and still flush out to 1.6 no sweat. Great cells. Wish all my rigs could use them. They must have twice the anode and cathode of the R-22's and with the potted wire leads and the soldered on ring connectors are absolutely ideal.


Dave

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koputai

Dave,
That works, but my rig never had (well, not since before I got it) ring connector, just Winchesters on wires coming out of the horse shoe.
I agree, R-10's are so much better than any other sensor, it's just this connection issue that I don't like. I'd like to stay with R-10's, but I don't want to have to solder new connectors on. Hmm, will have to reassess.
Here's a pic of what I had been doing with the coax setup. Nice and neat, coax cable potted in to the horse shoe.

Cheers,
Jason.

Dsc00124.jpg

Dave Sutton

Hi Jason,

Might be a 15 v/s 15.5 difference. I've never seen cables with Winchesters wired directly to the horseshoe board. Was that a factory setup, or a rework of some sort?

In the original Mark-15 the two wires from the horseshoe board come up from the center of the rig right at the base of the sensor bridge directly under where the faces of the cells are, immediately pass thru a hole on either side of the bottom of the sensor bridge (thru rubber grommets) and then terminate on the back side of an insulated binding post with a ring connector on the back. The binding posts then present a threaded post/nut on the front side of the sensor bridge, and the sensor wires are connected to those. Originally, my rig had short wires with ring connectors on them attached to the binding posts and the other end connected to the cells with some sort of connector (cannot remember what, but neither Winchesters or Molex). The easy fix was to unscrew the nuts on the binding posts, toss the 6 wires into the "Big Box-O-Mark-15 Junk" and then just get sensors with wires and then to solder on ring connectors to the things. Those would be the ever popular R-10's, and a quick snip of the Winchesters leave bare wires, with a quick crimp of a ring connector and a dab of solder 'just to be sure' they are as good as hard wired to the rig. Each sell takes less than a minute to modify with the ring connector. Takes a few seconds to remove them. Easy and good.

Looking at the sensor bridge photo you show, you can see that there are 4 "mystery holes" in the aluminum plate per sensor position. The unused 4 holes per sensor position are designed to allow the wiring as I describe and show. The 2 at the bottom of each cell are where the wires ought to pass thru grommets to take them to the area behind the cells, and the two holes at the top of the cells are where the small insulated binding posts ought to be installed. The only thing different is that simple wires with ring connectors are needed from the horseshoe board to the back of the binding posts.


Those SMA connectors look nice though: Get Teledyne to make the R-10 with them on the back and you'll have it all.

Hope the photos are good enough to see what the heck I am talking about.



Nice secondary, eh?



Dave

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Attached Images

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__________________
"Changes in Lattitudes, Changes in Attitudes, Nothing remains quite the same".... www.nobubblediving.com

koputai

It's an SMI rework to be like a 15.5/16
My rig was also one of the developmental ones at SMI (the white one in magazine articles and in books, (like 'The Technical Diving Handbook' - Gentile pp176-177). Even though it looks nice in those pictures, when I got it it was a wreck. Col and Kane did a fantastic rebuild with tons of new parts.
Here's a pic of my original horse shoe block, minus the sensor bridge, which is stainless btw, not aluminium.
Dsc00125.jpg

Christ, I wish!

Cheers,
Jason.