Removing cylinder valves

Gibbon · 24th July 2006, 23:21

Of course the one place you know would be able to solve your problem is the nice flight engineers at the airport. If only you knew the right person...

They will have everything you could possibly want, then there are 24 hour plumbers, lock smiths, um... sounds like this is going to be an expensive presumption that you have made - this is real experience that you are building right now

There is a smilie that is just so appropriate

PS. Have you tried putting the valve in the hinge side of a door and closing the door till it grips the valve and then rotating the cylinder? (someone elses door is best)

onetime · 25th July 2006, 01:32

Put the top of the tanks in a bath of ice water for 10 minutes. The brass of the valve should contract more than the steel.

jhaaja · 25th July 2006, 05:50

Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield)

Thanks for the advice but I fly in 6 hours time - told you time was short! Have been hammering them anti-clockwise and have taken the handles off as instructed. Unfortunately no dive shop and noone to send them out - could be a problem!!!!

If you can get extra pair of hands to hold the tank in place (against the floor), then get a piece of wood between the hammer and the valve. Then just give it a tough smack (a heavy hammer works best) so that you get the best torgue arm (hit as far from the tank centerline as you can).

There isn`t really any other way if you do not have a threaded pipe for the valve.

JH

steevke · 26th July 2006, 15:22

Quote: (Originally Posted by jhaaja)

There isn`t really any other way if you do not have a threaded pipe for the valve.
JH

I just use an adjustable wrench. Do put a reg or a 'gas saver' in the valve or you will deform the valve when hammering the wrench.

Steven

jhaaja · 27th July 2006, 06:45

Quote: (Originally Posted by steevke)

I just use an adjustable wrench. Do put a reg or a 'gas saver' in the valve or you will deform the valve when hammering the wrench.

Steven

Some old reg works nice to keep the valve in shape. Usually it does not need so big a whack to get it loose. If is tight the best way is to give one heavy hit with lot of momentum to loosen it

I have had difficulties with some tanks that I hav bought used. Valves have been really tight at times. I put mine on the tank just handtight.

Wrench is good if you can get a good grip of the valve. Not all valves have nice flat surfaces to apply the wrench.

JH

decoweenie · 27th July 2006, 09:31

This is not for Nick in particular, but for anyone who thinks that they might need to remove tank valves in the future and want to be self-sufficient.

Make a steel bar (about 10-12" is perfect) with DIN thread on one end.
Screw the bar into the valve.
Roll the tank on the floor so that the bar hits the carpet in the rotational direction you want.
If the valve is VERY tight, it will take 2 rolls. Most come out with a single roll.

Easy-peasy! One of the best investment, I promise, if you have to take valves off your tanks off more than once every 10 years...

nmanfield · 28th July 2006, 14:34

Quote: (Originally Posted by decoweenie)

This is not for Nick in particular, but for anyone who thinks that they might need to remove tank valves in the future and want to be self-sufficient.

Make a steel bar (about 10-12" is perfect) with DIN thread on one end.
Screw the bar into the valve.
Roll the tank on the floor so that the bar hits the carpet in the rotational direction you want.
If the valve is VERY tight, it will take 2 rolls. Most come out with a single roll.

Easy-peasy! One of the best investment, I promise, if you have to take valves off your tanks off more than once every 10 years...

Come on Phi,

You know you want to build and sell them!!!!!

decoweenie · 28th July 2006, 15:53

Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield)

You know you want to build and sell them!!!!!

No thanks...

Seriously, they are really easy to make, and not worth the shipping cost from overseas.

**davepinchin** · 9th August 2006, 11:26

I'm gutted... I have just paid my LDS £14 to put my stage together...

How does it go.... At least Dick Turpin wore a mask !!!!!!

***sadave*** · 9th August 2006, 12:07

Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield)

Bit of a fastball but I'm back off to Ukraine tomorrow and will try and take my Meg with me.

So how'd you go in the end Nick? Did you get them off? If so, what worked?

Just curious.

24th July 2006, 23:21	#11 (permalink)
Gibbon Southern Monkey Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: East Devon Posts: 226	Re: Removing cylinder valves Of course the one place you know would be able to solve your problem is the nice flight engineers at the airport. If only you knew the right person... They will have everything you could possibly want, then there are 24 hour plumbers, lock smiths, um... sounds like this is going to be an expensive presumption that you have made - this is real experience that you are building right now There is a smilie that is just so appropriate PS. Have you tried putting the valve in the hinge side of a door and closing the door till it grips the valve and then rotating the cylinder? (someone elses door is best)
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25th July 2006, 01:32	#12 (permalink)
onetime Classic KISSer #138 Current Rebreather/s: Classic Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: US, NJ Posts: 673	Re: Removing cylinder valves Put the top of the tanks in a bath of ice water for 10 minutes. The brass of the valve should contract more than the steel.
(Online)

25th July 2006, 05:50	#13 (permalink)
jhaaja Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Finland Posts: 884	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield) Thanks for the advice but I fly in 6 hours time - told you time was short! Have been hammering them anti-clockwise and have taken the handles off as instructed. Unfortunately no dive shop and noone to send them out - could be a problem!!!! If you can get extra pair of hands to hold the tank in place (against the floor), then get a piece of wood between the hammer and the valve. Then just give it a tough smack (a heavy hammer works best) so that you get the best torgue arm (hit as far from the tank centerline as you can). There isn`t really any other way if you do not have a threaded pipe for the valve. JH
(Offline)

26th July 2006, 15:22	#14 (permalink)
steevke Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 310	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by jhaaja) There isn`t really any other way if you do not have a threaded pipe for the valve. JH I just use an adjustable wrench. Do put a reg or a 'gas saver' in the valve or you will deform the valve when hammering the wrench. Steven
(Online)

27th July 2006, 06:45	#15 (permalink)
jhaaja Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Finland Posts: 884	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by steevke) I just use an adjustable wrench. Do put a reg or a 'gas saver' in the valve or you will deform the valve when hammering the wrench. Steven Some old reg works nice to keep the valve in shape. Usually it does not need so big a whack to get it loose. If is tight the best way is to give one heavy hit with lot of momentum to loosen it I have had difficulties with some tanks that I hav bought used. Valves have been really tight at times. I put mine on the tank just handtight. Wrench is good if you can get a good grip of the valve. Not all valves have nice flat surfaces to apply the wrench. JH
(Offline)

27th July 2006, 09:31	#16 (permalink)
decoweenie Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo Posts: 5,510	Re: Removing cylinder valves This is not for Nick in particular, but for anyone who thinks that they might need to remove tank valves in the future and want to be self-sufficient. Make a steel bar (about 10-12" is perfect) with DIN thread on one end. Screw the bar into the valve. Roll the tank on the floor so that the bar hits the carpet in the rotational direction you want. If the valve is VERY tight, it will take 2 rolls. Most come out with a single roll. Easy-peasy! One of the best investment, I promise, if you have to take valves off your tanks off more than once every 10 years... __________________ "...after a while you get bored offering advice to a bull that like to keep butting the fence with its head rather than walking through the open gate..." - Rebreather World PM
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28th July 2006, 14:34	#17 (permalink)
nmanfield Megalegalegalegadingdong! Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: May 2005 Location: Odessa, Ukraine Posts: 329	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by decoweenie) This is not for Nick in particular, but for anyone who thinks that they might need to remove tank valves in the future and want to be self-sufficient. Make a steel bar (about 10-12" is perfect) with DIN thread on one end. Screw the bar into the valve. Roll the tank on the floor so that the bar hits the carpet in the rotational direction you want. If the valve is VERY tight, it will take 2 rolls. Most come out with a single roll. Easy-peasy! One of the best investment, I promise, if you have to take valves off your tanks off more than once every 10 years... Come on Phi, You know you want to build and sell them!!!!! __________________ Tub 'O Lard
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28th July 2006, 15:53	#18 (permalink)
decoweenie Crash Test Dummy Current Rebreather/s: Other CCR Other Rebreather/s: Other CCR Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cairo Posts: 5,510	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield) You know you want to build and sell them!!!!! No thanks... Seriously, they are really easy to make, and not worth the shipping cost from overseas. __________________ "...after a while you get bored offering advice to a bull that like to keep butting the fence with its head rather than walking through the open gate..." - Rebreather World PM
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9th August 2006, 11:26	#19 (permalink)
davepinchin and I love my Vision !!! Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Vision Other Rebreather/s: Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Swindon Posts: 59	Re: Removing cylinder valves I'm gutted... I have just paid my LDS £14 to put my stage together... How does it go.... At least Dick Turpin wore a mask !!!!!! __________________ Regards, Dave www.plongeesout.com www.swindondiveclub.co.uk
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9th August 2006, 12:07	#20 (permalink)
*sadave* Moderator Current Rebreather/s: Sport Kiss Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Sport Kiss Classic Kiss Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Brisbane, Queensland Posts: 1,034	Re: Removing cylinder valves Quote: (Originally Posted by nmanfield) Bit of a fastball but I'm back off to Ukraine tomorrow and will try and take my Meg with me. So how'd you go in the end Nick? Did you get them off? If so, what worked? Just curious. __________________ Wave!
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