simple HUD

dave t

Paul

I agree with you please put me down for one of your HUDs when they are ready, I would like the one WITHOUT fischer connectors please

best

Dave

decoweenie

Yes, I have dived the Smither Code system with my MK-15 and Classic-KISS. Usually, I don't give a specific opinion about something unless I have actually used it.

It is a lot easier than you would think.

You said that you have tried the same sequence, but your system might not work exactly the same blink rate as the HH system.

Just an example...

If the blink rate is too slow, then you will end up counting which I understand could be annoying to people. At the SP of 1.2, recognizing the blink rate of "green-green" is very easy that I recognize its "pattern" out of the corner of my eye instead of the number of flashes.

When the PO2 decreases or increases, the "pattern" changes and I instantly recognize the difference immediately, then know if it is a long-er or short-er pattern without having to count physically. This is for 1.1 (green) or 1.3 (green-green-green) which is more likely to happen when the chosen SP is 1.2 per the example.

If it is below 1.0, then the color changes to red thus distinct itself even farther.

Anyway, different people prefer different things. One visual system works for one group might not for another group. Some people like digital speedometer, some like analog. For example, people "read" the speed off the digital speedometer, but "recognize" the speed off the analog one.

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Janos

Very true!

One solution might be to have a HUD which is solid green for (say) 1.3 or whatever your chosen setpoint is, but that blinks with a Smithers Code for deviations away from this.

Janos

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paulraymaekers

I agree 100% on that, I'm one of the 'recognizers' :-)

Why not solid green on 1.25-1.35 ???
and one blink orange/red each 0.1 below/above optimal

btw, deco, did not mean to offend you! :-)

regards
paul

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decoweenie

Why not!

We can't be sure since Will is gone, but Kevin could probably shine some insight on the reason for the thinking behind the Smithers Code. However, I believe it was centered around 1.0 (solid color) instead of a chosen set-point for a few reasons:

• Anyone could use it without knowing what the chosen set-point is since it was meant to be an active-HUD system relaying the actual PO2 values.
• If the blink code is centered around the chosen set-point, then only the person who know which set-point was chosen could tell what the actual PO2 values are since the blinks are now indicating the off-set from said value.

Anyway, that's just MY guess.

Under the Smithers Code system, the LED could be mounted anywhere for different purposes.

For example, a LED at the bottom of the unit so the dive buddy behind you could see what your loop PO2 is. Or when facing you. Etc...

I wasn't offended, just want to qualify my opinion (for what its worth)...

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Sutty

When I bought Uri's RBG HUD I could specify the signals I wanted so I gave a lot of thought to it, including most of the systems mentioned. The Smithers-type system has the advantage of giving you a fairly precise PO2 value rather than a range which could be useful for a dil flush with no handsets working. (on the other hand if all 3 handsets have flooded I would consider the HUD signals suspect as the cables from the cells will be shorted at the handset end).
I decided against it because I'm pretty sure I would start ignoring a system which flashed the whole time. I considered a similar system with PO2=1 indicated by red and green solid and the flashes above and below with an exception of a solid green-only at normal working PO2, this would probably be my 2nd choice.
In the end I wanted solid green for OK so that a flashing signal got my attention quickly, and an easily read system. The smithers system might be hard to read when you have 3 channels next to each other doing it. (the channels in Uri's HUD are not synchronised with each other as they are on independant circuits).
I'm not too worried about the possibility of "hanging" as there are 3 circuits.

Incidentally the RBG can also be supplied with a "buddy light" to mount elsewhere and broadcast your PO2.

decoweenie

No, the Smithers system works with a single LED.

For example, 1.2 on all 3 sensors would be "green-green----green-green----green-green".

It would be very confusing for all 3 LED's to blink simultaneously.

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Sutty

I realise this - I was just talking of an equivalent system programmed to Uri's HUD. ie 3 LEDs each doing ---green-green--- for 1.2.

I don't think there would be a way to just use one LED with this as one of the key features is the 3 independant circuits, one for each cell. I suspect that 3 circuits all doing a single channel with a smithers-type signal might be confusing/distracting, though not too bad if this only happenned outside a "normal" band which was solid green.

I guess different systems suit different people depending what you want from a HUD - I want to be able to run a MCCR without normally needing to refer to the handsets.

Nick uk.

I don't see a HUGE value in the change of flashing sequences as to keep up with the change inn Po2. Because from the moment you are off your set point you are going to intervine, so you shouldn't be arriving at the 'extremes' of the scale in any case. If my set point was 1.3 and i set my HUD to solid green from 1.2 - 1.4 as soon as i hit 1.15 red flashing, left light, and i intervine, adding O2. But i do this straight away, so there is little or no need for the range of coded flashes for various Po2's because i nip it in the bud straight away! PPo2 1.45, flashing red light, right side, straight away i add dill. Do i really need to know that i'm passing 1.45, 1.50, 1.54, 1.58 etc. because in any case, as soon as i'm off set point i 'intervine'. plus when things start flashing i'd be sharp in checking consols too.

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Sutty

I'd agree to a point, but sometimes you are busy with other tasks, a "PO2 a bit low - sort it soon" signal is useful in combination with a "PO2 significantly low - sort it now" type signal. Also some lower-range signals are useful for descent and the last stages of your ascent. A range of signals also gives you an idea of how much O2 you need to add to get back to "setpoint".