DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager

mempilot · 5th May 2008, 19:08

One thing to note if using these adapters with the ATX style Apeks 2nd stages:

The set screw in the adapter is directly lined up with the plastic seam on the regualtor mouth port. Turn it down to much, and you will bow the mouthpiece in and possibly split the seam. With the tight fit and silicone sealant, I don't think the set screw is neccessary; however, as a design improvement, I would move the set screw to the bottom side of the adapter where it makes contact with a solid (non-seamed) piece of plastic where it can make a positive contact with damaging the seam. I'd probably take a small drill bit and make a 1/32 deep dimple in the mouthpiece port for the set screw to sit in.

mempilot · 5th May 2008, 22:54

Pics of what I was describing:

Drmike · 6th May 2008, 02:56

Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot)

One thing to note if using these adapters with the ATX style Apeks 2nd stages:

The set screw in the adapter is directly lined up with the plastic seam on the regualtor mouth port. Turn it down to much, and you will bow the mouthpiece in and possibly split the seam. .

by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, its not a joint, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left on the surface of the plastic by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. You cant not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one

Quote:

With the tight fit and silicone sealant, I don't think the set screw is neccessary;

It is. The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave ridges or flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it! The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place).

Quote:

however, as a design improvement, I would move the set screw to the bottom side of the adapter where it makes contact with a solid (non-seamed) piece of plastic where it can make a positive contact with damaging the seam. I'd probably take a small drill bit and make a 1/32 deep dimple in the mouthpiece port for the set screw to sit in

The set screw lines up with the ridges on the tx Apeks regs. See above why avoiding the 'seam' is a non issue. Id avoid drilling holes - it will just weaken and damage your regs and its uneccessary as the screw is just there to make contact against the ridges/flange to stop reg from being yanked off in anger.

mempilot · 6th May 2008, 03:02

Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike)

by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. Youcan not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one

I should have taken a picture. When I do the next reg, I'll shoot some pictures. When pressured, you can see the definite seam (mould joint line) coming apart. These are the newer Apeks regs. The line defineatly will seperate with hardly any pressure.

Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike)

The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place). The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is just there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave the flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it!

My recommendation is only for those using the current adapters on the newer Apeks regs. They will not fit with the flange intact. Once the flange is removed, the set screw has nothing to catch on. I won't even use the set screw on the others, but some may choose to and therefore the recommendation. I will shoot some video and post it. It will be obvious.

As for drilling, I don't mean a hole, but a dimple just marking the surface. Without a flange for the screw to grab, it will just slide. With a dimple, it gives it a foot hold again. As stated above, I don't think the set screw is neccessary either. I backed it out and when the sealant cured, it was nails.

Drmike · 6th May 2008, 03:17

Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot)

Not true. I should have taken a picture. When I do the next reg, I'll shoot some pictures. When pressured, you can see the definite seam coming apart. These are the newer Apeks regs.

that sounds very crudy. Find it hard to believe they would go for split design.....buy who knows. Either way the set screw should not cause any issue re:splitting because it should only be hand tightened and it (normally but not now in your case) locates in the ridges of the reg (see attached pic) Im sure removing the flange and ridges has weakened that part and wouldnt help

Now in your case you chose to modify the 2nd stage rather than enlarge the adapater so you can no longer use the ridges as a place to locate the set screw - which is why you taking about need to drill holes etc. For correctly fitting adapters they slide over the existing 2md stage flange without mods and the set screw hand tightens down and makes contact with the ridges (shown in pic) this set screw ensures adapter can never be pulls off (as ridges stop set screw moving) sealant makes the seal.

Quote:

My recommendation is only for those using the current adapters on the newer Apeks regs. They will not fit with the flange intact. Once the flange is removed, the set screw has nothing to catch on. I won't even use the set screw on the others, but some may choose to and therefore the recommendation. I will shoot some video and post it. It will be obvious.

In the interest of safety Id strong advise people do use the set screw. Its supplied with the adapter, it doesnt hurt to use it (provided its hand tightened only as stated) and it adds safety.

mempilot · 6th May 2008, 03:20

Just to reiterate:

This was done to make the adapter fit the ATX50 series. The adapter will not fit over the flange and ridge.

For the intended Apeks series, I would use the adapter as prescribed. For this series, some minor mod is neccessary.

Drmike · 6th May 2008, 03:27

Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot)

Just to reiterate:

This was done to make the adapter fit the ATX50 series. The adapter will not fit over the flange and ridge.

For the intended Apeks series, I would use the adapter as prescribed. For this series, some minor mod is neccessary.

fair enough, although it would be far better to dremel the adapater than to mess up the 2nd stage. I am sure a supply of properly fitting ATX adpaters are only a machine shop away

With no flange or ridge now you will need a location for that screw even more. You may have to make that dimple

mempilot · 6th May 2008, 03:35

Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike)

fair enough, although it would be far better to dremel the adapater than to mess up the 2nd stage. I am sure properly fitting ATX adpaters are only a machine shop away

With no flange or ridge now you will need a location for that screw even more. You may have to make that dimple

I tugged on it pretty good. No give. I think it will work without the set screw. Amazing enough, the adapter fits pretty tight with the flange and ridge removed. I would have had to gouge a lot of material out of those nice adapters to make it work that way. This particular 2nd stage is dedicated to the mask, so I wasn't too worried about the mod. I believe a mouthpiece will still work on it with a proper zip tie if so needed some day. Otherwise, it will be sold with the mask.

I'm currently evaluating where I'm going to go with OC regulators for the future. I need more, but Apeks has moved on again. I liked them better when they were keeping the product line simple and not so flashy.

Once I decide, I may get a hold of you for a custom run.

Thanks for your help,

Eric

Drmike · 6th May 2008, 03:43

Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot)

I tugged on it pretty good. No give. I think it will work without the set screw. Amazing enough, the adapter fits pretty tight with the flange and ridge removed. I would have had to gouge a lot of material out of those nice adapters to make it work that way. This particular 2nd stage is dedicated to the mask, so I wasn't too worried about the mod. I believe a mouthpiece will still work on it with a proper zip tie if so needed some day. Otherwise, it will be sold with the mask.

I'm currently evaluating where I'm going to go with OC regulators for the future. I need more, but Apeks has moved on again. I liked them better when they were keeping the product line simple and not so flashy.

Once I decide, I may get a hold of you for a custom run.

Thanks for your help,

Eric

no problem,
I agree re:apeks, I have 6 sets but always happy to borrow Duncan Prices poseidons when in the UK cos they just breathe so much better

Thinking of going over to Poseidons (Apear to be standard CDG kit, with a bit of grandmas stocking shoved in the mouthpiece)

tecdivertraining · 6th May 2008, 03:48

[quote=Drmike;185289

Thinking of going over to Poseidons (Apear to be standard CDG kit, with a bit of grandmas stocking shoved in the mouthpiece)[/quote]

dont do it!!! those guys are all using them as they were quite cheep for a while in the uk 199 quid for either cyclone or jetstreem. you cannot remove the front easily to clear any shit during the dive, and the servo on the end of the jets is a bugger if you bash it, they break easily. If you go for the Xtreems you would not like them to free flow,

If your dead set I have over a dozen sets and would be happy to swap you for your Apeks.

See ya soon

5th May 2008, 19:08	#11 (permalink)
mempilot What is this..terrafirma? Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,161	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager One thing to note if using these adapters with the ATX style Apeks 2nd stages: The set screw in the adapter is directly lined up with the plastic seam on the regualtor mouth port. Turn it down to much, and you will bow the mouthpiece in and possibly split the seam. With the tight fit and silicone sealant, I don't think the set screw is neccessary; however, as a design improvement, I would move the set screw to the bottom side of the adapter where it makes contact with a solid (non-seamed) piece of plastic where it can make a positive contact with damaging the seam. I'd probably take a small drill bit and make a 1/32 deep dimple in the mouthpiece port for the set screw to sit in. __________________ MEM "Da Pilot" Black holes are where God divided by zero. "If at first you don't succeed, don't dive silent." "Would you mind not shooting at the thermo-nuclear weapons." ~ Vic Deakins "Donkey's kill more people annually than plane crashes."
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6th May 2008, 02:56	#13 (permalink)
Drmike Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: MK 15.X Ouroboros Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 3,128	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot) One thing to note if using these adapters with the ATX style Apeks 2nd stages: The set screw in the adapter is directly lined up with the plastic seam on the regualtor mouth port. Turn it down to much, and you will bow the mouthpiece in and possibly split the seam. . by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, its not a joint, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left on the surface of the plastic by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. You cant not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one Quote: With the tight fit and silicone sealant, I don't think the set screw is neccessary; It is. The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave ridges or flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it! The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place). Quote: however, as a design improvement, I would move the set screw to the bottom side of the adapter where it makes contact with a solid (non-seamed) piece of plastic where it can make a positive contact with damaging the seam. I'd probably take a small drill bit and make a 1/32 deep dimple in the mouthpiece port for the set screw to sit in The set screw lines up with the ridges on the tx Apeks regs. See above why avoiding the 'seam' is a non issue. Id avoid drilling holes - it will just weaken and damage your regs and its uneccessary as the screw is just there to make contact against the ridges/flange to stop reg from being yanked off in anger. __________________ Get a girlfriend you sad twat - a Rebreather is an unfaithful mistress - dont blind yourself to her faults just because she goes down on you Last edited by Drmike : 6th May 2008 at 03:08.
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6th May 2008, 03:02	#14 (permalink)
mempilot What is this..terrafirma? Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,161	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike) by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. Youcan not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one I should have taken a picture. When I do the next reg, I'll shoot some pictures. When pressured, you can see the definite seam (mould joint line) coming apart. These are the newer Apeks regs. The line defineatly will seperate with hardly any pressure. Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike) The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place). The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is just there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave the flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it! My recommendation is only for those using the current adapters on the newer Apeks regs. They will not fit with the flange intact. Once the flange is removed, the set screw has nothing to catch on. I won't even use the set screw on the others, but some may choose to and therefore the recommendation. I will shoot some video and post it. It will be obvious. As for drilling, I don't mean a hole, but a dimple just marking the surface. Without a flange for the screw to grab, it will just slide. With a dimple, it gives it a foot hold again. As stated above, I don't think the set screw is neccessary either. I backed it out and when the sealant cured, it was nails. __________________ MEM "Da Pilot" Black holes are where God divided by zero. "If at first you don't succeed, don't dive silent." "Would you mind not shooting at the thermo-nuclear weapons." ~ Vic Deakins "Donkey's kill more people annually than plane crashes." Last edited by mempilot : 6th May 2008 at 03:18.
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6th May 2008, 03:20	#16 (permalink)
mempilot What is this..terrafirma? Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,161	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Just to reiterate: This was done to make the adapter fit the ATX50 series. The adapter will not fit over the flange and ridge. For the intended Apeks series, I would use the adapter as prescribed. For this series, some minor mod is neccessary. __________________ MEM "Da Pilot" Black holes are where God divided by zero. "If at first you don't succeed, don't dive silent." "Would you mind not shooting at the thermo-nuclear weapons." ~ Vic Deakins "Donkey's kill more people annually than plane crashes."
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6th May 2008, 03:27	#17 (permalink)
Drmike Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: MK 15.X Ouroboros Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 3,128	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot) Just to reiterate: This was done to make the adapter fit the ATX50 series. The adapter will not fit over the flange and ridge. For the intended Apeks series, I would use the adapter as prescribed. For this series, some minor mod is neccessary. fair enough, although it would be far better to dremel the adapater than to mess up the 2nd stage. I am sure a supply of properly fitting ATX adpaters are only a machine shop away With no flange or ridge now you will need a location for that screw even more. You may have to make that dimple __________________ Get a girlfriend you sad twat - a Rebreather is an unfaithful mistress - dont blind yourself to her faults just because she goes down on you Last edited by Drmike : 6th May 2008 at 03:31.
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6th May 2008, 03:35	#18 (permalink)
mempilot What is this..terrafirma? Current Rebreather/s: Megalodon Other Rebreather/s: Megalodon Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 1,161	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Quote: (Originally Posted by Drmike) fair enough, although it would be far better to dremel the adapater than to mess up the 2nd stage. I am sure properly fitting ATX adpaters are only a machine shop away With no flange or ridge now you will need a location for that screw even more. You may have to make that dimple I tugged on it pretty good. No give. I think it will work without the set screw. Amazing enough, the adapter fits pretty tight with the flange and ridge removed. I would have had to gouge a lot of material out of those nice adapters to make it work that way. This particular 2nd stage is dedicated to the mask, so I wasn't too worried about the mod. I believe a mouthpiece will still work on it with a proper zip tie if so needed some day. Otherwise, it will be sold with the mask. I'm currently evaluating where I'm going to go with OC regulators for the future. I need more, but Apeks has moved on again. I liked them better when they were keeping the product line simple and not so flashy. Once I decide, I may get a hold of you for a custom run. Thanks for your help, Eric __________________ MEM "Da Pilot" Black holes are where God divided by zero. "If at first you don't succeed, don't dive silent." "Would you mind not shooting at the thermo-nuclear weapons." ~ Vic Deakins "Donkey's kill more people annually than plane crashes."
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6th May 2008, 03:43	#19 (permalink)
Drmike Custom Title Allowed! Current Rebreather/s: MK 15.X Ouroboros Other CCR Home Build Other Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Other CCR Home Build Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 3,128	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager Quote: (Originally Posted by mempilot) I tugged on it pretty good. No give. I think it will work without the set screw. Amazing enough, the adapter fits pretty tight with the flange and ridge removed. I would have had to gouge a lot of material out of those nice adapters to make it work that way. This particular 2nd stage is dedicated to the mask, so I wasn't too worried about the mod. I believe a mouthpiece will still work on it with a proper zip tie if so needed some day. Otherwise, it will be sold with the mask. I'm currently evaluating where I'm going to go with OC regulators for the future. I need more, but Apeks has moved on again. I liked them better when they were keeping the product line simple and not so flashy. Once I decide, I may get a hold of you for a custom run. Thanks for your help, Eric no problem, I agree re:apeks, I have 6 sets but always happy to borrow Duncan Prices poseidons when in the UK cos they just breathe so much better Thinking of going over to Poseidons (Apear to be standard CDG kit, with a bit of grandmas stocking shoved in the mouthpiece) __________________ Get a girlfriend you sad twat - a Rebreather is an unfaithful mistress - dont blind yourself to her faults just because she goes down on you
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6th May 2008, 03:48	#20 (permalink)
tecdivertraining RebreatherWorld Sponsor Current Rebreather/s: Inspiration Classic Inspiration Vision Evolution Megalodon Dolphin Other Rebreather/s: Not Bought Yet Dolphin Join Date: May 2005 Location: Phuket, Thailand Posts: 398	Re: DrMike OC 2nd p-port adapters for Drager [quote=Drmike;185289 Thinking of going over to Poseidons (Apear to be standard CDG kit, with a bit of grandmas stocking shoved in the mouthpiece)[/quote] dont do it!!! those guys are all using them as they were quite cheep for a while in the uk 199 quid for either cyclone or jetstreem. you cannot remove the front easily to clear any shit during the dive, and the servo on the end of the jets is a bugger if you bash it, they break easily. If you go for the Xtreems you would not like them to free flow, If your dead set I have over a dozen sets and would be happy to swap you for your Apeks. See ya soon __________________ Mathew Partridge Technical Director Pro-Tech Dive College www.protechdivers.com www.tech-ccr.com
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