Quote: (Originally Posted by
Drmike)
by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. Youcan not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one
I should have taken a picture. When I do the next reg, I'll shoot some pictures. When pressured, you can see the definite seam (mould joint line) coming apart. These are the newer Apeks regs. The line defineatly will seperate with hardly any pressure.
Quote: (Originally Posted by
Drmike)
The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place). The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is just there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave the flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it!
My recommendation is only for those using the current adapters on the newer Apeks regs. They will not fit with the flange intact. Once the flange is removed, the set screw has nothing to catch on. I won't even use the set screw on the others, but some may choose to and therefore the recommendation. I will shoot some video and post it. It will be obvious.
As for drilling, I don't mean a hole, but a dimple just marking the surface. Without a flange for the screw to grab, it will just slide. With a dimple, it gives it a foot hold again. As stated above, I don't think the set screw is neccessary either. I backed it out and when the sealant cured, it was nails.