Quote: (Originally Posted by
mempilot)
One thing to note if using these adapters with the ATX style Apeks 2nd stages:
The set screw in the adapter is directly lined up with the plastic seam on the regualtor mouth port. Turn it down to much, and you will bow the mouthpiece in and possibly split the seam. .
by seam I presume your talking about the 'mould joint line' if so its not a joint that can be split, its not a joint, the plastic is moulded so its one homogeneous piece. That seam is just the mark left on the surface of the plastic by the mould tool which is made in 2 halves. You cant not 'blow the seam' as there isnt one
Quote:
With the tight fit and silicone sealant, I don't think the set screw is neccessary;
It is. The sealant makes the seal and secures that adapter, the set screw is there to ensure if godzilla yanks on the reg it wont pull the adapter off as the screw stops up against the flange. Which is why I preffer to leave ridges or flange in place. The screw is a back up to make sure reg and adapter can
never part. The sealant is very strong - but I air on teh side of caution and add back up. You wouldnt want the reg and adapter to part underwater when trying to breathe from it! The set screw should be hand tightened only (its not what keeps the adpater in place).
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however, as a design improvement, I would move the set screw to the bottom side of the adapter where it makes contact with a solid (non-seamed) piece of plastic where it can make a positive contact with damaging the seam. I'd probably take a small drill bit and make a 1/32 deep dimple in the mouthpiece port for the set screw to sit in
The set screw lines up with the ridges on the tx Apeks regs. See above why avoiding the 'seam' is a non issue. Id avoid drilling holes - it will just weaken and damage your regs and its uneccessary as the screw is just there to make contact against the ridges/flange to stop reg from being yanked off in anger.