Quote: (Originally Posted by
sfldiver)
My battery alarm is set at 1.2.
I check the voltage on the battery at the time of installation, but I do not specifically check it at any other time, which is why I opted to put a fresh battery each time I change my scrubber or every day of diving, whichever comes first.
When I was trained, it was suggested by my instructor that I use the higher-end high voltage batteries, which I initially did. One day, my handset fell into a constant loop between dives, without any indication that the voltage was low. Immediately following that event, I posted my experience online and received feedback from several others that had experienced the same thing. Within that post, Kevin Jurgensen himself posted a comment indicating that he personaly just uses simple batteries and changes them VERY often and he seemed to feel that was the best approach, which is the system I adopted - Who am I do go against the implied suggestion of the developer of the handsets, but now it seems that approach may be a problem too.
At this point, I'm not sure what to do? I will certainly make a point of paying closer attention to the voltmeter while the handset is under load, but that still doesn't answer the question of which battery to use and specifically how often to change the battery?
I will definitely make a habit of checking the cantacts within my handsets. I will also make a habit of cleaning the battery contacts as well.
Thanks for the advice!
CHanging the batteries frequently is always a good suggestion.. I personally prefer the lithium batteries because they work better in cold water not as big advantage in warm water other than duration.. I also know what to expect since I have been using them this way for a long time..
I will use 1.5v alkalines in warm water and make sure that I pay attention to the voltmeter now that there is one.. My PERSONAL feeling is that since I know how the lithium cells work and once I have a cell that is good I know what to expect.. Changing lots of cells increases the odds that I will hit a duff one, but lowers the odds of a battery failing under use (once you know its good).. Without the battery warning function, I always tried to avoid the 1.5v cells whenever I could..
for the display to be dead as was your last case that battery REALLY had to be bad, because a poor cell even after a reset can usually run the controller for sometime (if the b-l is not activated), then would go into a reset loop mode (when it tries to fire the solenoid), again for some time..
I know from past experience that I have had a handset reset underwater from a low battery (alkaline) and still was able to let the controller keep the po2 for the remainder of the dive (in this case it was over 2 hours of deco in warm water)