Dear Boris Comrades
Here’s a few tips and ideas I would like to share with you. Some of these modifications were all ready posted in the past…. I added them just in case you didn’t see them.
1) Cooper hose weights.
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2) Dive Rite TEC D-rings installed on the bottom of my kit. The plastic piece under the syntactic foam base is a black cutting board. This is a great place to clip off stage bottles and other stuff. The custom syntactic foam base was sprayed with “LINE-X” (truck bed liner spray) It’s awesome stuff. And is really holding up!
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3) A counter sunk set screw in the counter lung locking ring. The screw is very small and counter sunk so it won’t prohibit you from screwing in your hoses. The nice thing about it is your counter lungs won’t ever spin when your screwing and unscrewing your hoses.
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4) Screw on o-ring sealed dust caps for your Din connections . No water will get in the H.P. whip so you can take off the heavy bottles when your cleaning your kit. Also notice the little lanyard to pull on to disconnect your tanks.
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5) I drilled two holes through the metal plate that covers the solenoid cover. After you do a very deep dive it’s nice to have a peek just to see if that compartment got flooded.
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6) Home made retention band with some 3/8 inch rubber as a spacer. I presented CCR this modification last winter but never posted it because I didn’t want to here other rebreatherworld divers bad mouth my Boris. I was really happy to see CCR making this modification available to it’s customers in early spring 2007. And because it was my idea. I guess I’m patting my self on the back. This is the two Dollar answer to making the Delrin canister more stable. It just can’t flex (expand /contract) with that metal band around it.
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7) I painted the top of the battery compartment. I once flooded this compartment and found if I painted it I’ll be able to visually see through the clear cap if the o-ring is extruded before I screw down the locking ring. The blue color gives a good contrast if the black o-ring is extruded. It’s a pain in the ass to hold down and tighten the locking ring…..But you get the hang of it. Also when I flooded the compartment thank god it was fresh water. Everything under the cap is potted . The cap dried out and still works perfect. CCR really builds a kick ass product
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8) I grinded notches into the shutoff valves so I can spin them first so it kind-a brakes the seal and makes it easier to move them. I made three notches on each shut off valve .
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9) label all the O2 cells /wires and hand sets so there’s no guessing what cell is bad and so you all ways plug the correct wire into the same cell. I also put tape around them so they never come a part.
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10) I put these plugs onto the center section when cleaning my kit. It just makes things less messy. You don’t get water all over the place when you blast the garden hose in the lungs.
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11) The OPV filter. I used scotch brite. Others have used fine screen. What ever you decide it’s a must modification in my opinion!
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12) I also painted my HUD's front rim with flat black paint (not the sticker) and covered it with black duck tape. This protects it and stops the HUD's light from illuminating out of the sides/ top and bottom. It really makes a big difference if you dive in caves or dark water. In my opinion a better choice would be to make it out of a solid piece of black Delrin instead of the clear plastic they currently use. This would combat those issues.
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I hoped you got at least one good idea or tip!
FRONCINATE Your kit today
